Tieshi

Tieshi

I’ve always preferred visiting pristine, scenic places, but once such a place gets commercially developed, its charm is lost — everywhere you look there are crowds of people; artificial, overly contrived “attractions”; far-fetched legends; and, of course, exorbitant ticket prices.

From my experience, places where counties meet or provinces intersect — even if they have beautiful scenery — are less likely to be commercially developed. This is mainly because cross-regional management and coordination are more difficult.

Tieshi and Jin’gu Tianchi are just such places. The nearby “Gumen Scenic Area,” which isn’t nearly as scenic, charges a steep 40-yuan admission fee. But here, located in a desolate area where two counties meet, no one has developed it, so there’s no entrance fee. Even if someone tried to develop it, disputes over benefits between the two counties would likely stall progress — which is why its pristine landscape has been preserved to this day. Isn’t that fortunate?

Tieshi is located in Caidian Township at the northernmost edge of Huangpi, adjacent to Jin’gu Township in Dawu County. Originally called Shizhai (Stone Fort), it served as a mountain stronghold for local militias to protect their communities. Historical records indicate that in the third year of the Xianfeng Emperor’s reign (1853), after establishing its capital in Nanjing, the Taiping Rebellion sought to consolidate its new regime, expand its territory, and grow its influence. The Heavenly King Hong Xiuquan dispatched generals such as Hu Yihuang and Lai Han Ying to lead troops on a western campaign. The Taiping Army successively captured Anqing, Jiujiang, Wuchang, Hankou, Hanyang, and most regions of Anhui, Jiangxi, and Hubei. In the autumn of 1856, a unit of the Taiping Army suffered a major defeat at the hands of Qing forces and local militias. They retreated to Tieshi Mountain. Overnight, three walls were built along the mountain’s contours, and the Taiping soldiers held firm at the summit. The next day, the Qing army surrounded Tieshi, launching attacks for several days without success. At a loss, the Qing commander ordered all access routes blocked, intending to starve or dehydrate the Taiping rebels into submission. However, the Taiping soldiers saw through the enemy’s scheme — while pretending to feast and drink on the mountaintop, they secretly sent men to scale cliffs and fetch reinforcements. After over a month of stalemate, one Taiping general threw down a live, wriggling carp over a foot long from the wall. The Qing soldiers were stunned. Realizing that Taiping reinforcements were likely on the way, they hastily retreated, repeatedly exclaiming, “This truly is an Iron Fort!” Hence, the name Tieshi (Iron Fort).

Tieshi was also a battleground where revolutionary leaders of the older proletariat generation fought. During the War of Resistance against Japan, Qian Kuazi (Qian Yunhua) and Ju Yangren (Ju Zongcai), dispatched by a division commander, used the dripping eaves of Tieshi as a base. They rooted out local tyrants and fought guerrilla warfare against the Japanese invaders, leaving behind many moving and heroic legends.

The Jin’gu Tianchi (Golden Drum Heavenly Lake) below Tieshi belongs to Dawu County, situated at its southernmost edge. With its stretch of azure water and verdant mountains all around, the lake bears no traces of human alteration, maintaining its completely natural and primitive state. It feels so untainted, so simple, so pure, and so untouched. Standing on the mountain and looking out, there’s no sign of humans — only the wind rustling through the woods, and occasionally a colorful pheasant startled from the nearby grass, flapping away noisily.