Nanluoguxiang

Nanluoguxiang

Nanluoguxiang is a national AAAA-level tourist attraction.

Nanluoguxiang is one of the oldest neighborhoods in Beijing and is also included in the planned 25 historic preservation zones. Running from north to south, it starts at East Gulou Street in the north and ends at East Di’anmen Street in the south, stretching 786 meters in length and 8 meters in width. Built around the same time as the Yuan Dynasty capital (1267), it is China’s only well-preserved traditional residential area that retains the original layout of Hutongs and courtyard homes from the Yuan Dynasty, featuring the largest scale, highest historical rank, and richest resources among chessboard-style traditional neighborhoods.

In the urban layout of the Yuan Dynasty capital, which followed the principle of “ancestral temple on the left, altar of land and grain on the right, facing the court in front and the market behind,” Nanluoguxiang was part of the “market” section. During the Yuan Dynasty, with Nanluoguxiang as the central axis, the eastern area belonged to Zhaohui Fang, while the western area belonged to Jinggong Fang. In the Ming Dynasty, it was part of Zhaohui-Jinggong Fang. During the Qing Dynasty’s Qianlong era, it fell under the jurisdiction of Xianghuang Banner, and from the end of Guangxu to the Xuantong period, it was part of the Inner Left Third District. In the Republican era, it belonged to the Inner Fifth District. There are eight hutongs neatly arranged on both the east and west sides, forming a “fishbone” pattern, resembling a “centipede.” Hence, Nanluoguxiang is also known as “Centipede Alley.” From south to north, the eight hutongs on the west side are Fuxiang Hutong, Suoyi Hutong, Yuer Hutong, Mao’er Hutong, Jingyang Hutong, Shajing Hutong, Heizhima Hutong, and QianGulouyuan Hutong; the eight hutongs on the east side are Chaodou Hutong, Banchang Hutong, Dongmianhua Hutong, Beibingmasi Hutong, Qinlao Hutong, QianYuansi Hutong, HouYuansi Hutong, and Ju’er Hutong. These hutongs had no formal names during the Yuan Dynasty—their names gradually evolved after the Ming Dynasty. For example, Ju’er Hutong was called Ju’er Hutong in the Ming Dynasty, later changed to Juer Hutong, and was not called Ju’er Hutong until the Xuantong period of the Qing Dynasty, a name that has continued to this day. The Li-fang system was the basic unit of ancient Chinese residential organization and urban planning. In the pre-Qin period, it was referred to as “Li,” “Lv,” or “Lüli.” Starting from the Northern Wei Dynasty, the term “Fang” came into use. Chang’an in the Tang Dynasty, the largest city in the world at the time, had a total of 108 fangs. The planning of the Yuan Dynasty capital continued the li-fang system, dividing the city into 50 fangs, with wide, straight streets between them, resembling a chessboard.

During the Ming Dynasty, Beijing was divided into 28 fangs, with two merged and referred to as “Zhaohui-Jinggong Fang.” In the Qing Dynasty, it belonged to Xianghuang Banner. Nanluoguxiang was once called Luoguo Alley, but in the “Complete City Map” drawn in the 15th year of Qianlong (1750), it was renamed Nanluoguxiang.

The current Nanluoguxiang neighborhood is bordered by East Gulou Street to the north, East Di’anmen Street to the south, Di’anmen Outer Street to the west, and Jiaodaokou South Street to the east. The rectangular area enclosed by these four streets is precisely the site of two fangs from the Yuan Dynasty capital. With Nanluoguxiang as the boundary, the east side is “Zhaohui Fang,” and the west side is “Jinggong Fang,” making Nanluoguxiang the dividing alley between the two.

The li-fang system of Chang’an in the Tang Dynasty no longer exists, and the structure of the Yuan Dynasty li-fang has also changed beyond recognition over 800 years of history. However, the Nanluoguxiang area still remarkably preserves the historical remnants of the Yuan Dynasty li-fang. The hutong layout remains intact, and the various styles of mansions and residences within the hutongs are rich and diverse. It can truly be described as a well-preserved “jade” of Beijing’s ancient capital charm.

On a rare cool, drizzly afternoon in Beijing’s sweltering summer, I visited Nanluoguxiang once again. In recent years, Nanluoguxiang has caught the attention of fashion enthusiasts and foreign tourists because, starting from the new century, many bars have appeared along this ancient little street. It has now become another bar street in Beijing, following Sanlitun and Shichahai.

Some say Sanlitun Bar Street is colorful, Shichahai Bar Street is dark red, and Nanluoguxiang Bar Street is emerald green. This description may refer not only to natural colors but perhaps also to their different cultural connotations. Each hutong here has a rich cultural heritage, and every residence tells old stories.

Suggested Duration

Half a day

Transportation

To reach the north entrance: Take bus 107, 124, 204, or 635 and get off at Baochao Hutong Station; take bus 107, 124, or 204 and get off at Xiaojingchang Station; or take Metro Line 6 or 8 and get off at Nanluoguxiang Station.

To reach the south entrance: Take bus 13, 60, 118, 612, or 623 and get off at Luoguxiang Station; take bus 104, 108, 113, 201, 612, or 758 and get off at Beibingmasi Station, then walk west through Dongmianhua Hutong.

Admission

Free

Opening Hours

All day

Location

Nanluoguxiang, Dongcheng District, Beijing