Dongzhimen Guijie Food Street

Dongzhimen Guijie Food Street

Located within Dongzhimen, Guijie stretches from the western section of the Dongzhimen Overpass on the Second Ring Road in the east to the eastern end of Jiaodaokou East Street in the west. Along this over one-kilometer-long street, food and beverage services make up 90% of the more than 150 commercial establishments, boasting a restaurant density that is arguably unmatched elsewhere in Beijing. For this reason, Guijie is also known as Beijing’s food street. Today, it remains an excellent place to experience the city’s culinary highlights.

Surrounding Guijie (the “Ghost Street”) are numerous embassies, making it convenient for foreign tourists and expatriates working in Beijing to sample authentic Chinese cuisine. The street generates tens of millions of yuan in profits from foreign clientele each year. Along this over one-kilometer-long street, food and beverage services make up 90% of the more than 150 commercial establishments, boasting a restaurant density that is arguably unmatched elsewhere in Beijing. For this reason, Guijie is also known as Beijing’s food street. Strolling here late at night, you’ll be greeted by its bustling, brightly lit atmosphere — another unique charm of Beijing.

Guijie shines brilliantly amidst the dimly lit cityscape. It remains an excellent place to experience the city’s culinary highlights today.

Guijie

Historical Background:

There are many versions of how Guijie got its name, which is often written as “Ghost Street.” None of the theories about the origin of the name have been officially confirmed, and perhaps only long-time residents near Dongzhimen truly know its true origins.

Legend has it that during the Qing Dynasty, each of Beijing’s city gates had specific uses and could not be used indiscriminately. For example, troops would march out through Deshengmen, while executions were carried out near Xuanwumen. Dongzhimen, on the other hand, was designated for transporting timber into the city and carrying the dead out of it. Elderly residents who grew up nearby still remember playing with friends atop the gate tower in their childhood. From the tower, they could see a straight road leading into the city, with the Drum Tower directly opposite. Outside the city, meanwhile, lay an endless expanse of burial grounds. At the time, Dongzhimen was part of the urban-rural fringe, and a morning market naturally formed inside the gate. Vendors selling odds and ends, vegetables, and fruits would set up shop in the early hours before dawn and disperse as the sun rose. These vendors relied on kerosene lamps for lighting, which appeared dim from afar. Coupled with the coffin shops and funeral parlors in the vicinity, the area had an eerie vibe. Hence, it came to be known as the “Ghost Market.” Strangely enough, when the market economy took off, many shops along Dongzhimen Street tried various businesses but almost all went bankrupt, even the sole state-owned department store had to shut down. The ill fortune of the place was puzzling. However, it was later observed that only restaurants thrived here. These eateries saw few customers during the day but became bustling hubs at night. Whether the locals’ claim that ghosts came into the city to dine at night contributed to this prosperity remains anyone’s guess.

As the nightlife flourished, Ghost Street became a household name in Beijing. Many recognized the immense business potential here, and even the local government shifted from initial resistance and strict control to eventual support. The district commerce commission even designated the area as the “Dongnei Food Street.” However, because the character “ghost” carries negative connotations, officials from Dongcheng District sought a new name for the street. But most business owners opposed the change, fearing it would disrupt the feng shui and harm their businesses. It was then that officials discovered the character “簋” (pronounced the same as “ghost” but meaning “ancient food vessel”), which is associated with food. They launched a campaign to promote the new name and even installed a large bronze statue of the character at the head of the Dongzhimen Overpass near the street. And thus, the now civilized “Guijie” (Food Street) was born.

Today, Guijie has become a symbol of Beijing’s food culture and a hallmark of trendy dining. It represents a source of aspiration, joy, and even a popular topic of conversation. Many people’s first “night tour” of Beijing begins here. On significant occasions in the city, people often gather here. Whether it was celebrating Beijing’s successful Olympic bid, China’s football team reaching the world stage, or the emotional aftermath of the Asian Cup loss to Japan, crowds came here to sing, drink, cheer, hug, and cry late into the night. The entire street immersed itself in the shared atmosphere. This is Guijie today.

Beijing is home to many famous snacks, such as stewed pig’s intestines with tofu and dough slices, quick-fried tripe, and lamb spine hot pot. In recent years, Guijie has seen the rise of a culinary trend centered around spicy crayfish. More recently, spicy frog and Chongqing-style grilled fish have taken center stage. Foreign visitors are especially drawn to Guijie due to its proximity to embassies, making it an ideal place to explore Chinese food culture. It’s common to see groups of foreigners gathered around tables, interspersed with a few Chinese locals, chatting over extremely spicy hot pots or aromatic grilled fish. Here, foreign tastes are often transformed by Chinese cuisine, and Guijie has played no small role in introducing Chinese food to the world.