Tuojian

Tuojian

On the southwestern edge of Yuexi County stands the highest peak in the entire county — Tuojian, which rises 1,751 meters above sea level. Before visiting, I had been puzzled by the name of this mountain, but once I saw it with my own eyes, I began to understand. The southwestern side of Tuojian is dominated by rocky peaks, where stone forests spread out like a sea, soaring from the earth and scraping the sky, with precipitous cliffs jutting out and deep valleys crisscrossing the landscape. Although none of these stone formations are higher than the summit of Tuojian, they seem to weigh down the mountain, giving the impression that Tuojian is “carried” by them. Tuojian is a prominent part of the Dagangling range.

From the middle of Tuojian extends a steep, straight ridgeline running southward. On either side of the ridgeline lie two mountain hollows shaped like the character “个” (meaning “individual”), and these two hollows largely converge at the base of the mountain. Each hollow gives rise to a stream, which locals call “Luosiyan” (Spiral Eye). The upper hollow is called “Big Luosiyan,” while the outer one is called “Small Luosiyan.” Tuojian and the surrounding Big and Small Luosiyan cover an area of about 100 hectares. The scenery here is so unique that it defies description.

First, there are the bizarre rocks, scattered across the landscape like stars, standing tall and jagged in all directions, with strange and striking shapes — a typical example of a granite peak forest landform. The larger ones feature stone forests and stone stalagmites, while the smaller ones are exquisitely delicate, as if carved by supernatural forces. Some resemble rare animals and birds: for instance, the Giant Lizard Stone, where a lizard-shaped rock clings to a cliff face; Rabbit Stone, where two sharp, upright stones look like a pair of rabbit ears. There are also Elephant Trunk Stone, Sea Lion, Sea Turtle, Dragon Egg, and more. Others resemble various objects or figures: like Chair Stone, whose backrest is particularly tall; Waist Mill Stone, which from below looks like a pillar reaching the heavens, from Tuojian appears like a car, and only when viewed from the side does it resemble a millstone. There are countless stones shaped like the sun, moon, and immortal peaches. Many other peculiar rocks couldn’t be closely examined from different angles due to time constraints. These marvels of nature, ingeniously formed, are both fascinating and awe-inspiring.

Second, Huangshan pines are found all over the Big and Small Luosiyan. These hardy pines take the rocks as their mother and the clouds as their milk, rooting themselves in perilous cliffs and standing tall atop jagged peaks, robust and upright. Their needles are short and thick, dark green and glossy, with flat tops as if trimmed, and their beauty in form is truly unparalleled. Some pines grow several zhang (a traditional unit of length, roughly 3.3 meters) tall, while others are less than a chi (around 0.3 meters). Thanks to the wonders of nature, they take on a myriad of majestic forms — some stand tall and straight like giants holding up the sky; some stretch out their verdant branches like flowing water or drifting clouds; some have twisted trunks like dragons probing clear waves; others stand firmly and valiantly like tigers returning to their mountain lair. Each tree has a unique form, indescribably wonderful; every pine shares common traits yet differs in beauty, offering a feast for the eyes. Like the Guest-Greeting Pine of Huangshan, such pines are abundant here, though though hospitable, they seldom actually welcome visitors.

Tuojian rises thousands of ren (an ancient unit of length) into the sky as a peak, its base forming valleys, and mountain streams gather and flow downward. Waterfalls cascade down, crashing into pools, which then overflow into springs and streams, creating a murmuring flow like the sound of a zither. After rain, the waters swell, and the torrents rush with a roar that shakes the valley. From Tuojian down to the exit of Yinhe (Milky Way), a distance of less than 100 li (approximately 50 kilometers), there are 10 hydropower stations each with a capacity of over 100 kilowatts. These deep mountain pearls add even more charm to the splendid scenery.

Though Tuojian’s naturally beautiful scenery may not be as famous as Huangshan’s, it can certainly rival it. For a long time, it has remained “hidden away like a beauty in her boudoir, unknown to the world.” Legend has it that the great poet Li Bai once considered traveling from Mingtang Mountain to Tuojian. He carved two gourds on the rocks of Hulu River, with ribbons tied to them. Above the gourds, he inscribed four large characters: “Heavenly Radiance.” The patterns and inscriptions on the rock face are still clearly visible today. That’s how Hulu River got its name. Located south of Mingtang Mountain, the river was part of Li Bai’s plan during his desire to retreat into the mountains for seclusion. He intended to cross Mingtang Mountain via Hulu River to reach Tuojian. But upon reaching the foot of Mingtang Mountain, he looked up at its five jade-like, finger-like peaks and felt they were unclimbable. At that time, having been defeated due to supporting Li Lin, and feeling disheartened, he yearned for “heavenly radiance” but could not reach it. And now, he couldn’t even make it to Mingtang Mountain, let alone Tuojian, which is derived from and even more towering than Mingtang Mountain. Left with no choice, he went to live in seclusion on Sikong Mountain instead.