Dongmianhua Hutong

Dongmianhua Hutong

Dongmianhua Hutong isn’t very deep, yet it can be found on Beijing’s map. Like its neighboring hutongs—Bingmasi, Maor, and Yu’ensi—Dongmianhua is about a zhang wide, paved with cement, and lined mostly with traditional-style residences. Peek into a small courtyard, and you might spot what looks like an imposing Qing-era gate, half-ajar, with finely carved wooden door knockers visible from the front, and solemn stone door knockers standing upright—there must have been horse tethering posts outside the gate back in the day.

Looking inside, you’ll see scattered siheyuan courtyards, with several small red-brick kitchens of various sizes built here and there. Each of the four sides—east, west, south, and north—is home to one household. There’s a grapevine in the courtyard, heavy with clusters of deep purple grapes that are almost too tempting to resist. Look up at the wooden panels embedded under the eaves, their narrow surfaces displaying faded painted designs that seem to tell some ancient tale. The bricks of the old houses are as thick as thread-bound ancient books. Approaching the house near the gate, you’ll see ornate beams and painted rafters, with dragons dancing across the screen wall. Scenes like this are not uncommon among Beijing’s hutongs.

The origins of Dongmianhua Hutong, like those of all Beijing hutongs, are steeped in history and lore, though tracing them in detail is no easy task. But no matter which direction you walk from this hutong—east, west, south, or north—you’ll find the former residences of many notable figures. The small courtyard here is a somewhat modern-style bungalow, seemingly built to mimic the structure of a siheyuan. Its roof has a railing from which you can look out, but your view isn’t far-reaching—the surrounding high-rises block the distant sights. Yet against the backdrop of these modern buildings, the ancient homes here stand out all the more, highlighting the traces of history.

Looking down along the hutong’s railing, you can take in the entire view of the lane’s two ends. You’ll notice the hutong’s self-imposed “traffic rules”—cars yield to motorcycles, motorcycles yield to bicycles, and bicycles yield to pedestrians. Nestled in this hutong is a highly prestigious academy—the Central Academy of Drama, commonly referred to here as “Zhongxi.”

Dongmianhua Hutong is one of the most ordinary hutongs in Beijing. People from all over—north, south, even from Urumqi and Hong Kong—come and go through its lanes.

Attraction Location

Andingmennei Street, Dongcheng District, Beijing