Houhai

Houhai

Houhai refers to the Shichahai area, which consists of three water bodies: Qianhai, Houhai, and Xihai. To distinguish it from the former "Three Seas" (Beihai, Zhonghai, and Nanhai), it is called the "Rear Three Seas." Houhai stretches from Di’anmen Outer Street in the east to Xinjiekou Street in the west, and from Ping’an Avenue in the south to the North Second Ring Road in the north, covering a total area of 146.7 hectares, including 34 hectares of water surface and 11.5 hectares of green space. This is an ancient water area in Beijing dating back over 700 years to the Yuan Dynasty when the city was first established.

Houhai, as part of the millennia-old Shichahai, is a serene spot where water meets mountain views, with weeping willows brushing the shores. The riverside residences and local residents, along with the surrounding royal mansions and historic homes, add endless charm with their quintessential Beijing flavor and deep historical roots. People come here just to hear the crisp chirping of autumn insects, catch a glimpse of the essence of old Beijing’s siheyuan courtyard architecture, and savor what seems like a long-lost imperial legacy.

Though called a "sea," it is actually a large artificial lake that was once an exclusive freshwater pool for the imperial family. Located in central Beijing, Houhai is just four or five stops from Tiananmen Square, connected by water to the famous Beihai Park, and lies in distant view of Jingshan Hill and the Forbidden City. Strolling along the shore, one may inadvertently catch sight of green-tiled walls and red-painted buildings. Outside these grand, solemn gates, only the tall, dense trees within can be seen, exuding a quiet sense of mystery. It is said that the waters of Houhai connect to the dragon veins of the Forbidden City, making it an auspicious site throughout history. As a result, eminent monks built temples here through the ages, while nobles and high-ranking officials constructed mansions and gardens along the shore, and celebrities moved to the lakeside, initiating the earliest waterside lifestyle around Houhai. Hence the saying, “Shichahai came before Beijing.”

Houhai Bars:

With a vibe similar to other bars—simple antique furniture, green plants, and quirky decorations—Houhai’s bars offer a laid-back feel. The bars around Houhai aren’t very large, and perhaps the limited space helps avoid excessive noise, which is one of the reasons I enjoy hanging out in Houhai’s bar scene.

With the moon hanging high and the lighting soft and ambiguous, the faint sound of an erhu or pipa drifts over from a boat on the lake, adding a touch of bohemian charm to the tranquil Houhai. Whispering couples and groups of friends singing along to drinks. The melodious music evokes memories of hometown streams and childhood playmates, or the nights of catching crickets in the summer.

Houhai is a place perfect for nostalgia. Every visit stirs up a sense of reminiscence. Bringing a girlfriend to Houhai to experience Beijing’s romance is one of the most worthwhile things to do this season.