Zeng-Zhao Garden

Zeng-Zhao Garden

Zeng-Zhao Garden is a cultural heritage site protected at the Jiangsu provincial level.

Zeng Garden, originally named Xukuang Garden and commonly known as the Zeng Family Garden, covers an area of over 20 acres. It was once part of the ruins of the “Little Wangchuan” garden built during the Ming Dynasty’s Wanli era by imperial censor Qian Dai. During the Qing Dynasty’s Tongzhi period, it was acquired by the Zeng family and developed into a private residence by Zeng Zhizhuan (courtesy name Junbiao), who served as a criminal ministry official during the Guangxu era. Construction began in the ninth year of Guangxu (1883) and was completed in the 20th year, making it over 120 years old. It has long been a renowned classical garden in the Jiangnan region. Zeng Zhizhuan’s son, Zeng Pu, served as an imperial scribe during the Guangxu era and is a celebrated modern Chinese writer and translator. His historical novel *Niehaihua* (The Sea of Regret) is widely loved, and Lu Xun praised it as having “exquisite structure and splendid literary style.” Alongside *The Travels of Lao Can*, *Strange Events Eyewitnessed Over Twenty Years*, and *Officialdom Unmasked*, it is considered one of the Four Great Condemnation Novels of the late Qing, famous both in China and abroad. Zeng Pu also translated numerous works by famous French authors such as Victor Hugo and Molière, which greatly enhanced the reputation of Zeng Garden. Zeng Pu spent both his adolescence and later years in this garden.

The name “Xukuang” (Void Expanse) originates from the “Treatise on Astronomy” chapter of the *Huainanzi*, quoting: “The Way begins in the void expanse; the void expanse gives birth to the universe; the universe gives birth to qi...” It refers to the clear and tranquil energy at the dawn of creation, when all was vast and silent. The site was once described as half urban, half rural, half mountain, half water—crystal clear and exquisitely beautiful, imbued with an aura of refined beauty. Naming the garden “Xukuang” is highly fitting and fully reflects the high artistic vision of its creators in harmonizing landscape and nature.

In terms of garden design, the garden centers around a relatively open body of water in the middle, with scenic elements arranged around the pond. Pavilions, towers, and terraces are artfully distributed, with hills and waters meticulously laid out. Long corridors wind their way through, willow-lined embankments stretch over the water, and flowers and trees are lushly arrayed—each step reveals a new view, a feast for the eyes. Especially remarkable is the way the garden borrows views of Yushan Mountain, where shimmering water and mountain scenery form a naturally painted scene, refreshing the spirit and making it a standout among classical gardens of Jiangnan.

Zeng Garden boasts a rich collection of scenic spots, renowned far and wide for its Sixteen Scenes. Among them, the ancient red bean tree and camphor tree are relics from the Ming Dynasty’s “Little Wangchuan” garden. Known as the “Twin Treasures,” they remain vibrant and are of great value.

1. Gui Geng Ke Du Lu (Retirement Study Cottage)

This is the main hall of the garden, where Zeng Zhizhuan taught his son Zeng Pu and received guests. It is a yuanyang-style (paired) building, surrounded by water on three sides. The front is inscribed with a plaque reading “Gui Geng Ke Du Lu” (Retirement Study Cottage) written by Wu Da, while the back is titled “Shui Tian Xian Hua” (Leisurely Talks by the Water and Sky). The front courtyard is planted with flowers and trees. Among them is a camphor tree with a dense canopy, ancient and graceful, a relic from the Ming Dynasty’s “Little Wangchuan” garden, particularly precious. Stone bamboo shoots stand nearby. Beside a cluster of slender bamboos is the unique rock formation “Miao You,” engraved with an inscription by Zeng Zhizhuan. The inscribed stone tablet, written by his son Zeng Pu, commemorates the naming of the garden and the rock, and is also a valuable piece of garden cultural heritage. The entire courtyard is shaded by plants, offering truly beautiful scenery.

2. Shui Tian Xian Hua (Leisurely Talks by the Water and Sky)

Located at the rear of the main hall “Gui Geng Ke Du Lu,” it features a row of floor-length windows facing the pond. From here, one can gaze at the light on the opposite bank, the water, and the mountain scenery, feeling as if immersed in a painting and filled with delight.

3. Qiong Yu Lou (Jade Tower)

Situated in the southeast corner of the garden pond, east of “Gui Geng Ke Du Lu,” this two-story pavilion was originally the residence of the garden owner or family members. It has wing buildings on both sides, with corridors on upper and lower levels, laid out to follow the terrain. The east side connects to the “Xiao You Tian” rockery. Ingeniously designed and exquisitely conceived, climbing to the top offers a panoramic view of the entire garden and the beautiful scenery of Yushan Mountain.

4. Ancient Celebrity Stele Corridor

Located on the east side of the garden, the corridor’s southern end features the Bamboo Cottage, shaded by clusters of lush bamboos, cool and pleasant. The inner walls of the corridor are inlaid with over 30 stone steles, including carvings of *Mountain Villa Study Painting* and *Encouraging Farming Master’s Retirement Painting*. The *Mountain Villa Study Painting* stele contains poetic inscriptions about the garden scenery of “Ming Se Shan Zhuang” (Radiant and Serene Villa), built by Zeng Pu’s grandfather Zeng Tuian during the Qing Daoguang era in Shantangjing, Chengqu. The *Encouraging Farming Master’s Retirement Painting* stele features inscriptions about the retirement painting of Zeng Tuian’s grandfather, Zeng Mianyun, during his time as magistrate of Ninghua County, Fujian. Both sets of steles were inscribed by notable figures of the time, including Li Hongzhang, Zhang Zhidong, Wu Da, Weng Tonghe, and Yang Yisun. With diverse calligraphic styles and exquisite carving, these are masterpieces of calligraphic stone engraving.

5. “Xiao You Tian” Rockery

Built from yellow stones by renowned rockwork master Zhuang Yigeng, this rockery features winding paths, soaring bridges, elevated platforms, and tall trees that create a vivid and richly imagined scene. Within the rockery is a stone chamber—looking up, one can see the sky; looking down, the pond water flows in, as if formed by nature itself, offering endless charm. Cave walls are inscribed with the phrases “Ri Chang Shan Jing” (Long Days, Quiet Mountains) and “Shui Liu Hua Kai” (Water Flows, Flowers Bloom), in unique, elegant, and classic scripts. At the summit sits the “Lan Yue Ting” (Moon-Embracing Pavilion) with flying eaves, presenting breathtaking scenery.

6. Xiao Tai (Whistling Platform)

Located on the east side of the pond, it bears the inscription “Xiao Tai” (Whistling Platform) handwritten by Zeng Zhizhuan, simple and honest in style. The entrance is marked with the inscription “Tian Men” (Heaven’s Gate). Passing through the rockery leads to the pond edge. The area resembles a perilous cliff landing, with ancient, twisted trees adding a uniquely rustic and striking feature. Additionally, two stone islets rise from the pond west of the platform—one inscribed with “Xu Kuang Zi Zhu Zu Chu” (Where Xu Kuang Washes His Feet), the other with the seal script “Shi Zhou” (Stone State). The calligraphy is ancient and lively. The two islets stand prominently in the water, arranged with beautiful asymmetry, combining with the nearby shore rocks to form one of the most exceptional rock landscapes in the garden.

7. Liu Di Shuang Qiao (Willow Embankment Double Bridge)

Located on the north side of the garden, right at the boundary between the front and rear ponds, the embankment is lined with weeping willows, with light and elegant bridge pavilions at both ends. The scenery is picturesque and also a signature view of the garden.

8. Xue Tai (Snow Platform)

This is a green island extending into the pond from the north side. In the past, it was planted with white magnolia and white pine, hence the name “Xue Tai” (Snow Platform), and is an excellent spot for summer cooling.

9. Bu Yi Ting (Non-Leaning Pavilion)

Located on the zigzag bridge in the middle of the pond, surrounded by water on all four sides, this square hip-and-gable pavilion forms a charming visual counterpart with “Shui Tian Xian Hua” on the south bank. With sunlight, clouds, and the fragrance of green lotus, the scenery is charming. The pavilion’s plaque is inscribed in bold and freehand calligraphy by Zeng Pu.

10. Lian Hua Shi Jie (Lotus World)

Every midsummer, the large pond is covered with lotus leaves, gently stirred by the breeze, as the fragrance of the blossoms drifts by—evoking the beautiful scene described as “lotus blossoms redder than the sun.” A poetic and picturesque atmosphere naturally arises, making it a prime spot for enjoying lotuses among Changshu’s classical gardens.

11. Yao Yue Xuan (Moon-Inviting Pavilion)

Located in the central southern part of the pond, at the key junction of the north-south zigzag bridge, it faces the pond and is proportionally well-designed, allowing views in all directions to enjoy the scenic beauty of the pond. It is rich in poetic charm, with a hanging couplet that reads: “Spring intoxication with flowers lining the house; night verses as the moon nears the door.”

12. The Transcendent Pavilion

Located at the northwest corner of the pond, it faces water on two sides, offering an unobstructed view of the garden scenery to the east.

13. The Plum Blossom Mountain House

Situated at the southwest corner of the pond, this spot features lush green hills and the graceful presence of the Plum Blossom Mountain House atop them. Surrounded by blooming osmanthus and plum trees, it was once praised as the “Plum Blossom Field.”

14. The Hall of the Noble and Everlasting Life (now the Zeng Pu Memorial Hall)

Located to the left of the main hall in the garden, the interior displays a plaque inscribed with the words “The Noble and Everlasting Life,” calligraphed by Wu Da. Originally used as a study and also for receiving guests or summer living, this space hosted notable figures such as Wu Da, a renowned calligrapher and high-ranking official from the Tongzhi and Guangxu reigns of the Qing Dynasty, Yang Yunshi and Yang Wuyang—celebrated late Qing and early Republican poets from Changshu—as well as Zhang Hong, a local cultural and educational figure who served as an acting imperial censor and consul in Nagasaki, Kobe, and Incheon. Zhang often visited the Zeng Garden, engaged in deep conversation with Zeng Pu, and completed the novel *Continuation of Jou Yuan Hua* at Zeng Pu’s request—a celebrated literary anecdote. Today, the Hall of the Noble and Everlasting Life has been converted into the Zeng Pu Memorial Hall. The courtyard in front of the hall is lush with vegetation, featuring especially a towering Ming Dynasty red bean tree with vibrant foliage, a rare remnant of the “Little Wangchuan” garden of the Ming era.

15. The Joyful Sunshine Study

Positioned west of the Hall of the Noble and Everlasting Life, it was once a place for reading. The name plaque was handwritten by Sun Yuansi, a famous scholar from Changshu during the Qing Dynasty. The courtyard in front of the study is filled with seasonal flowering trees, creating a tranquil environment.

16. The Longevity and Health Chamber

Located south of the Joyful Sunshine Study, the two are separated by a spacious courtyard adorned with intricate patterned paving, rockeries, and flower stands, presenting an elegant and refreshing scene.

(II) Zhao Garden

Zhao Garden, also known as Shuiwu Garden, neighbors Zeng Garden. Constructed during the Tongzhi and Guangxu reigns of the Qing Dynasty, it was originally part of the “Little Wangchuan” garden complex built by Qian Dai, an imperial censor of the Ming Dynasty’s Wanli era. During the Jiaqing reign, a local resident named Wu Junji cultivated bamboo and raised fish here, turning the area into a scenic pond exuding the fragrance of lotus flowers over several miles—thus earning the name “Shui Garden.” In 1860, during the Xianfeng reign, the garden was destroyed. Later, during the Tongzhi and Guangxu eras, the garden came into the possession of Zhao Liewen, a former official from Yanghu County who retired to Changshu. Zhao Liewen, styled Huifu and also known as Resident of Ningjing, had served as the magistrate of a directly governed prefecture. Together with his wife Deng Jiaxiang (daughter of Deng Tingzhen), and brother-in-law Deng Jiaji, Zhao restored and expanded the garden, constructing landmarks such as the “Tianfang Lou (Heaven-Releasing Tower),” “Nengjing Ju (Residence of Tranquility),” “Liufeng Bridge (Willow Wind Bridge),” “Jingxi (Tranquil Stream),” “Meiquan Zhisheng (Record of Plum Spring),” “Sifang (Like a Boat),” and two rockeries—turning it into a renowned garden in the Jiangnan region, also called “Zhao Garden,” “Zhao Wu Garden,” or “Zhao Hu Garden.” It was later renamed “Shuiwu Garden.”

This garden excels in garden design by centering around water, with various scenic spots artfully arranged along the pond in harmonious disorder. Like Zeng Garden, it also incorporates the view of Yushan Mountain into its landscape, blending mountain and water scenes seamlessly. Walking within feels like strolling through a painting—an extraordinary experience. The garden is famed for its Ten Scenic Spots.

1. Residence of Tranquility

Located north of the pond, this elegantly spacious building serves as the main hall of the garden and the primary venue for receiving guests. The plaque inscribed with “Residence of Tranquility,” in the handwriting of Weng Tonghe, allows one to take in the panoramic view of shimmering waters, surrounding mountains, pavilions, corridors, terraces—all forming a picturesque scene.

2. Heaven-Releasing Tower

Positioned at the northwest corner of the garden, with the verdant Yushan Mountain rising behind it and the serene Jingxi Stream in front, the tower offers boundless beauty. A two-story structure encircled by corridors, the tower is fronted by its own courtyard, forming a peaceful and secluded area that once served as the owner’s library. The plaque above reading “Heaven-Releasing Tower,” in bold characters, was calligraphed by Yang Yisun, a noted calligrapher and former Jinshi degree holder from the Daoguang reign who also served as prefect of Fengyang in Anhui. Inside the tower are couplets composed by Zhao Liewen.

3. Tranquil Stream

Located in front of the Heaven-Releasing Tower, this stretch of clear water connects westward to the Jiuxiangwei section of the ancient city’s inner moat and eastward to the main pond of the garden. The southern side of the stream is separated from the main pond by a small island, creating a layout of natural elegance and twists. The island is adorned with rockeries, flowering trees, and unique charm. An old couplet praised it: "Mountain hues blend quietly with the stream; cloud shadows linger leisurely on the trees."

4. Willow Wind Bridge

Located west of the Tranquil Stream, right where the stream flows into the inner city moat, this arched bridge features wooden gates beneath it, allowing boats to travel from the garden into the city moat—an ingenious and scenic design. Along the inner moat, willow branches sway gracefully over the water, creating an exceptionally lovely scene.

5. Late Spring Corridor

Situated west of the garden, this long corridor stands by the water. Within it are the Late Spring Pavilion and the Cloud-Unimpeded Pavilion. From behind, Yushan Mountain feels almost within reach. With misty green hills and pavilions meandering low, the drifting mountain mist and clouds form a poetic and breathtaking view. A couplet inside reads: “A three-story tower rises amid veils of trees; a corner of green hills glows in the sunset”—a perfect depiction of this scenery.

6. Early Spring Corridor

Located south of the garden, running east-west, it links the boat-like structure by the pond in the east to the Late Spring Corridor in the west. Within the corridor is a pavilion called Early Spring. Looking north from the corridor-pavilion, one can see the zigzag bridge, the Residence of Tranquility, the Heaven-Releasing Tower, the Tranquil Stream, and the Willow Wind Bridge in clear view, all set against the backdrop of Yushan Mountain’s emerald hues resembling a brocade screen.

7. Like a Boat

Positioned on the southern bank of the garden pond, this boat-shaped structure combines both the body of the boat and an upper story, featuring exquisite and elegant design with pleasing proportions and lively scenery. The inscription “Like a Boat,” in Zhao Liewen’s handwriting, graces the structure. From the boat, various garden views can be admired. The sight of “Willow Waves by the Boat” has long been celebrated as a scenic highlight.

8. Record of Plum Spring

Located east of the shore near the “Like a Boat” structure, this site features a yellow-stone rockery topped with a stone well railing inscribed with the characters “Mei Quan (Plum Spring),” calligraphed by Zhao Liewen. The hill is shaded by tall trees, including three ancient pines and cypresses with gnarled roots embedded in rocks and twisting branches reaching the sky—relics from the “Little Wangchuan” garden of the Ming Dynasty, making it a particularly precious feature. Hence, “Record of Plum Spring” has long been a renowned scenic spot.

9. Hall of Water, Wood, and Refined Beauty

Located in the eastern part of the garden, this is a reconstructed hip-and-gable-style structure. The layout is spacious and open. The plaque inscribed with “Shui Mu Qing Hua” (literally “Water, Wood, and Lush Beauty”), written in the calligraphy of Wu Da, hangs above. To its north lies Shan Man Lou (Mountain-Filled Tower), facing a high hill with an imposing pavilion, layered rocks, a stone bridge lying across, and a winding stream, creating a grand and picturesque landscape. To the south are undulating low hills with lush woods and slender bamboos, offering a serene and elegant environment.

10. Shan Man Lou (Mountain-Filled Tower)

Situated to the north of the Shui Mu Qing Hua Hall, it is located in the central-eastern part of the garden. To its north is the “Huan Xiu Fen Sheng” (literally “Dividing the Beauty of the Encircling Show”) Huangshi (yellow stone) rockery. It is a two-story, double-eaved high pavilion that has been restored and reconstructed, and also serves as the tallest building in the entire garden. The architecture is majestic and imposing. According to *Yuyang Shuo Yuan·Mengbi* (The Yuyang Story Garden·Dream Pen), when describing the “Little Wangchuan” garden and its structures, Shan Man Lou was referred to as “lofty, spacious, solid, and the finest tower among all towers in the region.” The current plaque inscribed with “Shan Man Lou” features the calligraphy of Qian Yong, a renowned calligrapher of the Qing Dynasty. From the top of the tower, visitors can take in the beautiful scenery of the Zeng and Zhao gardens. Gazing into the distance, the landscape of Yu Mountain unfolds vividly before one’s eyes, truly breathtaking. “Bathed in the pure spirit of mountains and waters, embracing the grandeur of heaven and earth”—the couplet currently hanging in the tower, composed and inscribed by Yu Youren, serves as a most vivid depiction of the scene here.

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Bus routes: Routes 2, 5, 7, 8, 9, 104, 105, 109, 110, 116 (get off at Yi Yuan Station)

Inquiry hotline: 0512-52779669

Ticket price: 15 RMB per person

Opening hours: 8:00–16:00

Address: No. 7, Wengfuqian, Changshu City, Suzhou

Type: Classical garden/historic garden site

Recommended visit duration: 2–3 hours

Phone: 0512-52221655

Opening hours:

8:00–16:00.

Yushan Subdistrict: Covering an area of 62.7 square kilometers, Yushan Subdistrict in Changshu City has a permanent population of 207,000, including 137,000 registered residents. The subdistrict is positioned to become a core area for all-for-one tourism that integrates mountains, waters, and the urban landscape.

The Jiangsu Provincial Government (Document No. Su Zheng Fu [2017] No. 103) and the Suzhou Municipal Government (Document No. Su Fu Fu [2017] No. 62) have recently issued official approvals regarding the adjustment of the administrative divisions of Yushan Town, Changshu City.

… Detailed information on Yushan Subdistrict++

Further reading:

· Sixth batch of Jiangsu Provincial Cultural Heritage Protection Units