In the Sea of Japan, a treasure trove of ingredients, an ancient and refined Japanese culture has flourished. Coastal fishing villages still exude a gentle and understated cultural charm. We’ve come to Kyoto and Fukui by the Sea of Japan to trace the past and present of the Kansai region.
The Japanese are a people who eat a lot of fish. To make eating fish easier, Japanese chopsticks are often pointed, which helps remove bones. Usually, just a bowl of rice, a fish, and a bowl of miso soup make for a delicious Japanese meal. This time, we’ve come to Kyoto and Fukui around Wakasa Bay, where every port offers the freshest seafood from the Sea of Japan. The tranquil bay scenery paints the gentlest picture of coastal villages. Only by being here can you truly understand how inseparably connected the ocean is to Japan.
The boathouses by Ine Bay look simple and lovely amid the green mountains and clear waters.
- The Exceptional Beauty of the Bay
In Kyotango, Kyoto, there is an ancient fishing village by Ine Bay — the perfect example of coexistence with the sea. Nestled against mountains and facing the ocean, with limited flat land, the area developed “boat houses” built along the water. The first floor of these boat houses connects directly to the sea, serving as a small dock where boats come and go and fishing gear is stored. The second floor is where fishermen live their daily lives. The village gradually formed during the Edo period (1600s), and within a 5-kilometer stretch along Ine Bay, over 230 boat houses remain preserved to this day. The houses have maintained their appearance from over 300 years ago, standing quietly and peacefully amidst the green mountains and clear waters.
We boarded a sightseeing boat to circle Ine Bay. The seawater is as blue and clear as that of an island resort — so clear you feel you could jump in and swim at any moment. Unlike the usual messiness of fishing villages, there’s no sign of the usual clutter or unremovable driftwood and oil stains. The black-tiled houses, scattered at varying heights, look even more simple and endearing against the mountain and water backdrop. Fishing boats are moored outside, while balconies are lined with drying clothes and bedding. This isn’t just a tourist spot for passersby — it’s been home to villagers for two or three hundred years. I was curious: with the boat houses so close to the water, wouldn’t they flood during high tide? And in rough seas, wouldn’t the houses be swept away? The boat captain pointed to a small island in the middle of the bay not far away and told us it’s called Aoshima. Aoshima blocks the rolling waves from the open sea, resulting in calm sea conditions here — no dramatic tides or towering waves. Gazing at this tranquil sea, life in the fishing village seems carefree, making one envious of Ine Bay’s exceptional blessings.
White sand beaches in Amanohashidate Park are covered with lush pine trees.
When it comes to Kyotango in Kyoto, besides the boat houses of Ine Bay, one cannot miss Amanohashidate. Alongside Matsushima and Miyajima, Amanohashidate is counted as one of Japan’s Three Views. Its 3.6-kilometer-long white sandy beach stretches across Miyazu Bay, dotted with over 8,000 pine trees. A beautiful legend surrounds Amanohashidate: it is said to be a bridge that the gods built to freely travel between heaven and the residence of the goddess. One day, the god accidentally dropped the bridge, and what fell became Amanohashidate, thus severing the connection between heaven and earth. Listening to this romantic tale while walking on the white sands and strolling beneath the lush pines, with the blue sea right at your feet, it’s easy to see why Amanohashidate truly deserves its place among Japan’s Three Views.
However, a walk in Amanohashidate Park only offers glimpses of its beauty. To take in the full view, you must take the Umisachi-Yamasachi Ropeway for a bird’s-eye perspective. Normally... (text truncated) it’s usually used by tourists to capture a sweeping view, but here, you can’t do the same unless you ride the ropeway up the mountain. With this unique vantage point, you can fully appreciate the layered landscape. Intrigued, I decided to give it a try, and in an instant, the world seemed to turn upside down — sea and sky merged into one, indistinguishable from each other. That stretch of white sand and pine path instantly transformed into the legendary bridge fallen across the horizon. It was spectacular!
Half-believing, I did as instructed, and in a flash, it felt as though the heavens and earth had flipped, the sea and sky blending into one indistinguishable expanse. The stretch of white sand and pine road suddenly appeared as the legendary bridge that had toppled across the sky — absolutely breathtaking!
Taking a sightseeing boat around Amanohashidate is also a great option.
- The Maritime Charm of Fukui
Leaving Kyoto, we arrive at the Sanshuu Five Lakes in Fukui Prefecture, also located along Wakasa Bay. This is Fukui’s premier natural attraction. The best way to enjoy the lake views is by taking a ropeway up to Mount Mezantei Natural Park. From here, you can gaze at the Sanshuu Five Lakes on one side and the Sea of Japan on the other. The area is also known as a “lover’s destination.” At the mountaintop, there’s a fun “love lock” area where couples can attach padlocks after making wishes, or visit the Tiankudo Hall to write wishes on ceramic pieces and toss them down the mountain — the farther they fly, the more likely the wish will come true.
While here, you must try the local seafood. Kinpa Toro Bako Tei, located at the foot of the mountain near the Sanshuu Five Lakes, serves up the freshest and richest seafood grilled over charcoal. The charcoal fire is blazing on the table as the waitress expertly prepares shrimp, crab, shellfish, and more. With over ten years of experience, she knows exactly when the ingredients are perfectly cooked. The owner says the ideal dining time here is about two hours. Indeed, enjoying the waitress’s amazing skills, chatting, and taking in the serene fishing village scenery all make for a wonderful meal.
Heading further north, we reach “Tosankyo” on the Echizen-Kaga Coast, where nature’s craftsmanship is on full display. This unique landscape was formed about 1,300 years ago by volcanic activity. Massive andesite cliffs, weathered over centuries by crashing waves and snow, stretch for one kilometer, creating a majestic and awe-inspiring cliff face. Some brave souls lie on the cliff edge to peer downward, watching the surging waves crash against the rocks, sometimes near, sometimes far, getting an up-close sense of Tosankyo’s thrilling cliffs. Besides walking along the cliffside trails, taking a sightseeing boat to view the cliffs from the sea offers a completely different experience.
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