【Traveler’s Journal】Healing in Extreme Beauty: World Spa Travel

By Wei / TRAVELER Luxe Traveler’s Journal
 

Japan’s Izu Peninsula has long been one of the country’s most renowned hot spring destinations. With its breathtaking natural landscapes of mountains and sea — the literary charm of Shuzenji Onsen, the hillside retreat of Fugan Onsen on the Izu Plateau — each offers either poetic serenity or luxurious grandeur. Secluded hot spring lodgings exude an air of mystery, offering immersive sensory pleasures, visits to scenic sights, and a slow savoring of fine food and wine — a blissful spa experience crafted just for adults.

Japan’s most famous hot spring area is the Izu Peninsula, located within Shizuoka Prefecture, bordered by Sagami Bay to the east, Suruga Bay to the west, and facing the Pacific Ocean to the south. It was formed by underwater volcanoes and tectonic activity. Large clusters of volcanoes are concentrated in the northern and central regions of the peninsula, where rugged terrain harbors abundant geothermal resources. The northeastern areas around Mount Amagi and the Shuzenji Kaigan Coast were designated as part of the “Fuji-Hakone-Izu National Park” in 1936 (Showa 11). With the completion of the Izu Kyuko Line and the Izuhakone Railway’s Sunzu Line, the spectacular views of mountains and ocean turned the Izu Peninsula into a sought-after luxury hot spring resort destination.
 
● Refined Elegance Shuzenji

Among the countless hot spring resorts on the Izu Peninsula, “Shuzenji Onsen” in the central Izu region is the oldest hot spring town. Dating back to the Heian period, the eminent monk Kōbō Daishi established Shuzenji Temple by the Katsura River, marking the beginning of Shuzenji’s history. The name of the town derives from the temple.

Condensing deep hues of bamboo and moss

Following a gravel path through the bamboo grove, you’ll find several refined lodgings tucked away in the quiet depths. Their curtains are inscribed with elegant calligraphy reading “Yagyū-no-sho.” The poetic charm of bamboo has inspired one of Shuzenji’s most lyrical hot spring retreats. In 1970 (Showa 45), “Yagyū,” a traditional kaiseki restaurant in Tokyo’s Shirokane district, extended its warm hospitality to the mountains of Shuzenji. They built the inn “Yagyū-no-sho” amidst the bamboo, crafting a space rooted in nature. The founder, a passionate practitioner of kendo, honored the legacy of Miyamoto Musashi’s rival — the legendary swordsman Yagyū Munenori, whose family once ruled these lands. The discipline and focus required in kendo have been refined into a truly exceptional lodging experience.

The architecture of the inn follows the “sukiya-zukuri” style. The term “sukiya” conveys a love for refinement, and sukiya-zukuri refers to residences that embody artistic elegance, originating from the small tea houses of the Azuchi-Momoyama period. Tea masters of the time, contrary to the prevailing trend of extravagance, built simple yet graceful teahouses using bamboo and wood. Avoiding superfluous decoration, they emphasized a Zen-like beauty of austerity and purity — now considered synonymous with high-end Japanese architecture.

After undergoing renovation for its 40th anniversary in 2009 (Heisei 21), Yagyū-no-sho now features 15 sukiya-style guest rooms located in the main building and annexes. Each room varies in layout and furnishing, and is named with evocative poetic imagery such as “A Tree,” “Swimming Fish,” “First Wild Geese,” “Young Bamboo,” and “Moon Shadow.” Nestled among gardens and forested hills, the rooms are accompanied year-round by the soothing sounds of streams from nearby ponds. The changing seasons bring new beauty — snow-white cherry blossoms in early spring, cool green bamboo in summer, stunning crimson leaves in deep autumn, and minimalist karesansui landscapes in winter. A place to soothe both body and soul.