“I wouldn’t recommend climbing Mount Nantai if you’re a beginner hiker.”
At that point, we were only halfway up the mountain, drenched in sweat, when my Japanese friend said this to me.
“What? No way? You’re only telling me this now, as a beginner? That’s not what you said at the start. No wonder the shop assistant was so surprised when I told her I was planning to climb Mount Nantai while buying hiking gear!”
To persuade me to join him on the climb up Mount Nantai, my friend kept assuring me the hike wouldn’t be too tough and was actually quite easy. I was half-convinced and went along with him. Because of this, I ended up climbing Mount Nantai in Nikko, one of Japan’s 100 famous mountains, with him. It wasn’t until after reaching the summit and chatting with locals that I realized Mount Nantai is definitely not a mountain for beginners (laughs). The climb is fairly challenging, with steep slopes and many sections prone to falling rocks.
But I’m truly grateful he brought me to climb Mount Nantai. Had he not “tricked” me like this,
I probably would never have volunteered to take on the challenge of climbing Mount Nantai in Japan in my lifetime.
Mount Nantai is located in Nikko City, Tochigi Prefecture, which is famous for its World Heritage sites: two shrines and one temple (Nikko Toshogu Shrine, Futarasan Shrine, and Rinnoji Temple). Nikko is situated about 125 kilometers north of Tokyo and is roughly a two-hour drive from the capital, making it an ideal destination for a day trip or overnight stay from Tokyo.
From Tokyo to Nikko, you can take either the Tobu Railway or JR. Travelers are advised to purchase the ALL NIKKO PASS or 2DAY NIKKO PASS, which cover both train and bus fares—convenient and great value. Online purchase is also available: http://www.tobu.co.jp/foreign/tcn/pass/all.html
After arriving in Nikko that morning, the first thing we did was buy some food. We stopped by a bakery and a small supermarket at the foot of the mountain, where we picked up instant noodles, dumplings, water, and more. After getting everything ready, we set off toward Mount Nantai.
Mount Nantai is a conical volcano with an elevation of 2,486 meters.
The hike involves continuous uphill sections, taking about six hours for the round trip.
As the sacred body of Futarasan Shrine, home to the deity Futarasan Okami, climbers must pay a 500-yen entrance fee to enter the mountain.
Futarasan Shrine Transportation & Spiritual Protection
Ascend the stone steps of Futarasan Shrine to reach the mountain trailhead
Start with a few steps of stairs to warm up
The stretch from the first station to the second station is within a forest, with soft sunlight filtering through the leaves. The scenery is absolutely beautiful. Being surrounded by nature like this feels wonderful.
The path from the third to the fourth station is relatively easy, as it follows a wide road.
Starting from the fourth to the fifth station, you can look back to enjoy views of Chuzenji Lake and the surrounding mountain ranges.
Chuzenji Lake is so still that the water appears mirror-flat, calm enough to make you think time has stopped flowing.
Chuzenji Lake
The section from the sixth to the eighth station is the most grueling and difficult part of the hike.
Not only are the slopes steep, but the path is also covered with rocks, making progress tough.
In some parts, you’ll need to use both your hands and feet to navigate between the rocks.
By this point, I was already starting to feel like giving up—it was just too exhausting (weak).
But of course, since I had made it to the eighth station, I was only a little way away from the summit, so I summoned all my strength and pressed on.
Finally, finally, FINALLY, I reached the mountaintop (the tenth station).
Unfortunately, the weather wasn’t great that day, so there weren’t many views to speak of…
Without wasting any time, we immediately started preparing lunch: instant noodles.
Hiking cuisine: “Fujiwara Seimen” instant noodles (Fuyanishiki type)
Speaking of which, I once saw a Taiwanese TV show where a celebrity had introduced this package of Tochigi Prefecture’s Fujiwara-made...
It was really delicious—the taste was definitely on par with fresh ramen.
When eating ramen, green onions are absolutely essential.
We also brought our own rice balls.
Eating rice balls while hiking gave the whole experience a very Japanese feel.
Then, we slowly made our way down the mountain. Going up is easy, but coming down is hard—especially on stone paths like these.
It took us two to three hours to descend.
Fortunately, we still had time to catch a bus to Nikko Station after descending. We even made a stop in Utsunomiya to try their famous gyoza before heading back to Tokyo to rest. Whether it’s the mountains or the lakes of Nikko, though understated, they’re truly extraordinary. With an appreciation for these little details, you’ll gradually fall in love with Nikko.
Mount Nantai (Nantaisan)
Address: Chuzenji Shrine, Nikko City, Tochigi Prefecture
Website: http://nikko.4-seasons.jp/
http://www.nikko-kankou.org/spot/14/
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