London–Rhodes–Athens–London: All flights with Easyjet, total cost for three people around £650
We originally planned to fly round-trip to Rhodes only, but when checking flights, we found it was cheaper to return from Athens. Adding the flight from Rhodes to Athens brought the price to about the same, so we changed our return to include a stop in Athens to visit the temples and the Acropolis.
Rhodes: The most convenient option is to rent a car, though taxis are also quite affordable. We mostly used taxis, and when visiting Lindos, a friend rented a car for a day. If you stay in Rhodes Old Town or Lindos, there are also buses between the two areas. We stayed in Lxia; the taxi from the airport to the hotel cost €24, and from the hotel to Rhodes Old Town was usually €8. If you don’t rent a car, another option is to join a one-day or half-day tour organized by the hotel, where a tour bus shuttles between attractions and the hotel — also quite convenient.
Athens: We booked a hotel at the foot of the Acropolis, allowing us to walk to all the attractions. The trip from the airport to the hotel and back was via the airport bus — €6 per person one way, with children under a certain age riding free.
Accommodation
Rhodes: Rodos Palace. We booked early and got a good discount. It’s advertised as a five-star hotel, and we reserved a high-floor sea-view room. However, just looking at the room itself, it didn’t really feel like a five-star — the facilities were a bit outdated, and a panel on the air conditioning vent had actually been removed, which was a bit alarming. The air conditioning also didn’t work very well, but fortunately, Rhodes has amazing sea breezes, so just leaving the balcony French window slightly open was enough to get through the hot summer nights (though if we’d opened it halfway, I think we might’ve woken up in the middle of the sea…). That said, the sea view was fantastic, and both the swimming pool and restaurant were great. The buffet was incredibly varied and changed every other day, so we ended up eating most meals at the hotel. Over five nights and six days, we only ate out three or four times.
Athens: Amalia Hotel. Since we only had a day and a half in Athens, we didn’t want to waste time on commuting. The weather was also quite hot, and we wanted to be able to return easily to rest and escape the strong sun. So we booked this excellently located hotel, situated midway between Syntagma Square and the Temple of Olympian Zeus (both within a 10-minute walk), directly opposite National Garden, a 3-minute walk from the airport bus stop, a 10-minute walk to Plaka, and less than 20 minutes’ walk to the Acropolis. The rooftop offered a view of the Acropolis at night. The room decor and breakfast were both nice, and they even gave us a fruit plate. The only downside was that €170 per night was a bit pricey. But traveling in the heat with a child, having a more relaxed schedule and spending a little more felt worthwhile.
Restaurant Recommendations
Mama Sofia. Let me recommend this seafood restaurant in Rhodes Old Town. I later discovered it’s recommended on sites like TripAdvisor, but at the time, we just chose it because while the restaurant next door was empty, this one was packed inside and out (so we ignored the grumpy look from the guy trying to lure customers away).
As soon as we sat down, the owner enthusiastically came over and asked where we were from. When we said China, he was delighted. He mentioned that he gets a lot of Japanese customers, so much so that he hired a waiter who speaks Japanese, but Chinese visitors are rare. He told us it’s a family-run restaurant, and the name comes from his mother. He’s been helping out at the restaurant since he was 18 — for over 40 years now. He brought out a metal box full of fresh seafood and introduced each type to us. Wei made a funny face seeing all those clawing, wriggling creatures, and when a giant octopus appeared, she ducked straight under the table. The owner quickly tried to reassure her. For our party of three adults and one child, we ordered a seafood platter for two, a Greek salad, garlic bread, flatbread with special sauce, one portion of kids’ pasta, drinks, plus tip, and the total came to just over €100 — the price felt quite reasonable.
While going to the restroom, I walked up the dimly lit stairs to the second floor and suddenly noticed the walls were covered in photos — probably photos with customers. At a glance, I could make out the owner’s rather handsome younger face, so the wall is filled with decades of memories.
When paying, one of the waiters said, “Oh, my dad took your order — I’ll go ask him.” Ah, it really is a family business. I wonder if the owner’s son will carry on the tradition? A woman sitting nearby told us she’s been eating here for 20 years. We asked if she was a local, and she said she’s American. For the past 20 years, every time she visits Rhodes, she comes to this restaurant. As a child, her parents brought her; now, she brings her family and friends. It’s also full of memories tied to the restaurant — quite touching. Next time we come back, we’ll bring Wei again.
So we recommend it to everyone: the food is fresh and delicious, and the owner’s love, enthusiasm, and pride for the restaurant are truly unforgettable.
Shopping
We only bought some souvenirs, mainly in Rhodes Old Town and Athens’ Plaka district. At Gatwick Airport, I bought a hat, which the wind blew off as soon as we arrived in Lindos. Later, in Athens, with the blazing sun, I bought another one.
For souvenirs, I bought natural sponges, tile wall hangings, postcards, fridge magnets, tea coasters, and more. Wei bought a large seashell (she spent ages picking one that sounded like the sea when held to the ear), two kid-sized traditional Athenian musical instruments, a silver bracelet, and a few floral-patterned small porcelain plates. Wei’s dad only bought a hat.
In fact, before the trip, I read in travel guides that unlike many European countries, bargaining is acceptable in Greece — you can usually get prices down to around 70% of the asking price. Unfortunately, we kept forgetting to bargain and only realized afterward as we walked away: “Hey, we forgot to haggle again, didn’t we?” Probably a side effect of living in the UK for too long, huh? 😭 But several shopkeepers did surprise us by giving us little extras after we paid — maybe because we didn’t try to bargain?
Detailed Itinerary
Day 1: London to Rhodes
Not wanting to wake up early for the flight, we booked an afternoon departure. I always used to take the window seat, but this time Wei insisted on it. Her first act upon boarding is always to fasten her seatbelt, then study the safety instructions.
The four-hour flight passed quickly with drawing and scribbling. But the plane took off late, causing a delayed arrival. With the two-hour time difference between Greece and the UK, we’d hoped to catch the sunset over the Aegean, but by the time we landed, it was already pitch dark. Our plane descended like a butterfly fluttering through the night toward the brightly lit island of Rhodes.
This is the outermost island of Greece, with Turkey just across the water. So during the taxi ride, we were treated to Turkish music the whole way, with the driver humming along, and Wei couldn’t help but imitate the sounds, making everyone laugh.
By the time we checked into the hotel and went out for food, it was already midnight by Greek time. The first restaurant we tried was about to close, and the second only had the owner on duty, who said due to the late hour, only salad, pizza, and drinks were available. Well, Wei enjoyed the latest dinner out she’d ever had, and although we couldn’t clearly see the color of the sea just steps away, we did get our first taste of the Rhodes sea breeze in that open-air restaurant.
Day 2: Rhodes (Rhodes Old Town, Knight’s Castle, Knight’s Avenue)
The names of the Greek islands are always deeply intertwined with the gods of Mount Olympus. Take Rhodes, for example — legend says it was given by Zeus to Helios, the sun god and predecessor of Apollo. Helios named the island after the nymph he loved, Rhode, the daughter of Poseidon, and eventually, he did marry the goddess.
But the first time I became familiar with the name was through the anime “Record of Lodoss War” (hey, fellow ’90s kids, how many of you still remember the melody of “Aria of the Sea of Fate”?). Though the Western fantasy story is set on a fictional Rhodes, I always felt it was somewhat inspired by the real one — because this island, too, has a moving “war chronicle” related to the Knights.
But let’s put the story of the Knights of St. John aside for now and focus on Rhodes Old Town, which still boasts tall, intact city walls that wrap around the town twice. Yes, the old town’s walls are double-layered — if attackers breached the outer layer and charged in recklessly, they’d likely get caught between the two walls and bombarded with arrows, stones, fire, and oil (imagine a medieval siege!). Standing at the gate and looking up, the old town gives off a heavily fortified vibe. Walking between the two walls, you can’t help but feel the desolation of an ancient battlefield. But once inside the inner city, it’s lively and full of life. Tourists bustle about, shops line the streets, and shop owners aren’t even in their stores — they’re lounging under the trees across the street. There are wells and motorbikes in the old town, dogs lying asleep, and flowers blooming beautifully.
As one of the three most famous knightly orders of the Crusades era (the Templars, the Teutonic Order, and the Hospitallers), the Knights of St. John was founded in Jerusalem in the late 11th century. Its primary mission was to assist the wounded and pilgrims, hence it was also known as the Knights Hospitaller. Their motto was "Defend the faith, aid the suffering!" In the early 14th century, the order seized Rhodes from the Byzantine Empire and stationed themselves there to resist imperial attacks for over two hundred years, becoming the only Christian stronghold in the Eastern Mediterranean and blocking the expansion of Muslim empires. In the final battle of 1522, the knights defended against an army of 200,000 with just over 6,000 men for a full six months. The battle was fierce and they were ultimately defeated, but their bravery was undeniable. Even Sultan Suleiman the Magnificent was moved to sympathy and eventually allowed the remaining 180 knights to evacuate safely. The order later relocated to Malta, ruling the island for over two hundred years until they were expelled by Napoleon’s forces in the late 18th century. Today, the Sovereign Military Order of Malta still exists, recognized as a sovereign entity by the United Nations, and even possesses its own territory—the 12,000-square-meter Magistral Palace located in Rome.
The Palace of the Grand Master, situated at the end of Knight Street, was once the official residence and administrative center of the Grand Masters of the Knights of St. John stationed on Rhodes. We arrived at the palace just past noon. My wife and I couldn’t help but take a break on the shaded steps, while Wei ran around excitedly in the spacious central courtyard. This castle-like palace is more solemn than ornate, featuring numerous sculptures, murals, weapons decorations, and uniquely distinctive mosaic tapestry-style paintings. Wei was particularly fond of these mosaics and often crouched down to examine them closely. The narrow corridors lit by wall sconces feel like time tunnels; walking through them, you can almost hear senior officers of the knights earnestly making pre-battle plans behind the closed doors on either side. Currently, one part of the palace also hosts an exhibition on Rhodes’ 5,000-year history, displaying many artifacts arranged chronologically. Photography isn’t allowed, but Wei remained interested throughout—she even referred to those pointy-bottomed wine jars as giant carrots.
After a long day, we spotted a playground on our way back, and Wei simply wouldn’t let it go. After dinner, she didn’t want to go back to the room and insisted on taking a walk by the sea. The beach was already deserted, with only the howling sea breeze. There she was, taking off her shoes and climbing onto a sun lounger, announcing that she wanted to lie down here. During the day people lie out to soak up the sun, but what are you doing? Trying to get a tan under the stars?
Day 3 Rhodes (Lindos Village, Lindos Acropolis)
Our accommodation is in a seaside resort area about a 10-minute drive from the Old Town of Rhodes. From there, it’s about an hour’s drive to Lindos, located in the eastern bay of the island.
Lindos was one of the three major city-states of ancient Rhodes. It’s said that as early as the Trojan War period, it proudly contributed nine warships. By its peak during the 7th to 6th centuries BC, Lindos served as the capital of Rhodes, owning numerous colonies and even controlling most of the Mediterranean trade. The glory of over two thousand years has long been weathered away, but today’s life—bathed in sunshine and sea breeze, with every home painted in bright colors—is peaceful and delightful!
The town is built against the mountains and by the sea, and no outside vehicles are allowed. You can walk up through the town to reach the Acropolis, or you can ride a donkey uphill. The donkey path is a bit flatter than the stone steps inside the town. One person, one donkey, spiraling upwards along the outskirts of the town.
Walking through the town, it feels like you’ve suddenly jumped out of the Turkish flair and medieval atmosphere of the previous two days and landed in the blue-and-white postcard version of Greece. Wei was quite proud of her outfit today—it matched the “trend colors” in the little shops by the road perfectly!
Perched on a cliff, the Lindos Acropolis is strikingly beautiful thanks to its seaside location. Between the blue sky and sea, the ruins evoke a sense of vast, solemn beauty. Yet, paired with the naturally heart-shaped bay below the cliff and the white sails dotting the water, it also brings a touch of elegance and tranquility.
An acropolis, as the name suggests, is a “city on a hill.” Typically built at the highest point of an ancient Greek city-state, it housed temples, palaces, and stationed troops. In times of war, it became a commanding and easily defensible headquarters. The Lindos Acropolis is the only one on Rhodes that remains, and due to its relatively intact preservation, it ranks quite high across all of Greece. Over the millennia, Greeks, Romans, knights, and Turks have all stationed here and reinforced the acropolis. The relief of the ship commemorating the victory at the Battle of Samothrace at the entrance of the acropolis has been largely eroded by time. Do the Doric columns in the Temple of Athena, which have fallen and been restored, still hold the shouts of soldiers who once marched off to war? And does the olive tree at the foot of the temple, gently leaning from thirty centuries of unceasing sea breeze, carry the salty tang of the ocean in its fruit?
In the town, the stone steps are narrow and winding, but shaded by beautiful white houses on both sides, so you’re not really exposed to the sun. But at the top, near the acropolis, there’s virtually no shelter. The final stretch of steps up to the acropolis is especially long and steep. Wei didn’t complain of fatigue, ask to be carried, or request a break (thanks, of course, to the constant praise and encouragement from my wife). Once at the top, she struck various poses, played hide-and-seek, pretended to read the informational plaques, and even peered into the caves on the ruins to see if any mice lived there. Later, she took some warm mineral water from my bag… and discovered it was actually warm…
Having cheerfully walked up on her own, full of curiosity and running around under the blazing sun, Wei was defeated by that unexpected mouthful of warm water… She strongly demanded cold water, slushies, juice, and ice cream. When told there were no shops in the acropolis but that she could get them on the way down, her face fell into a pout. The poor girl had expended quite a bit of energy, so we decided not to visit the much-praised Lindos Beach afterward. Instead, we satisfied her craving for a slushie first, then had lunch at a restaurant overlooking the bay before heading back. Goodbye, beautiful Lindos. I think next time, we’ll save the Acropolis in Athens for dusk—who says all acropolises aren’t on mountaintops?
Back at the hotel, we decided not to go out again today. Aside from the private villas, each room in the hotel has its own small pool. There are also seven or eight medium-sized pools of varying depths, presumably the deeper ones for diving. The largest is indoors—a circular pool with a huge frosted glass dome, surrounded by tropical plants. At dusk, the play of light and shadow creates a slightly dreamy beauty.
The large pool actually has a stage in the middle. When night falls and swimming time ends, sound equipment is set up on the stage, wooden tables and chairs are placed around the pool, and it transforms into an aquatic performance hall. Wei tried the shallowest pool, then splashed around in the indoor one. After dinner, she asked to come back, ordered an orange juice, and watched the song and dance performance intently. Eventually, she couldn’t resist slipping off her chair to dance with a few kids to the music.
Day 4 Butterfly Valley
We said goodbye to my wife in the dining room this morning—she’s flying back to London. We’re very grateful for her care over the past two days. So now it’s just me and Wei. We planned a lighter itinerary and signed up for a half-day tour to the Petaloudes Valley in southwestern Rhodes.
As for the tour, it’s basically just a bus that shuttles between the hotel and the attraction. Once at Butterfly Valley, you can walk up the mountain or take a small train. Since Wei loves all kinds of little trains, we opted for the train ride up and then walked down the valley. While waiting, we met an Indonesian girl from Sweden, and the two hit it off instantly. They chatted and laughed hand-in-hand the whole time, not needing their moms at all. Even when the long-awaited little train broke down right after starting and the driver had to pop the hood to fix it for a while, it didn’t dampen their excitement. Traveling with a peer definitely makes things easier for mom. The scenic train ride uphill was quite nice—you can see the sea the whole way. After getting off, we first visited an elaborately decorated Orthodox church, where many bright oleander flowers were blooming on the mountain.
Midsummer is a great time to escape the heat in Butterfly Valley. As you step into the quiet valley, the temperature seems to drop a few degrees instantly. Walking down the steps, butterflies flutter up and down, accompanied by streams of varying sizes. There are occasional wooden bridges over the streams, but no paths on the other side—perhaps to give visitors better angles to admire the butterflies. On the stone steps, you often encounter a single butterfly dancing alone, while over the streams, groups of them leisurely roam about.
Late June to early September is the best season to see butterflies here. It’s said the butterflies are attracted by the scent of resin from the storax trees in the valley—how poetic. I suspect July might still be a bit early, as there weren’t many varieties. Most were plain tiger butterflies. With wings folded, their tiger-striped patterns make them hard to spot among the rocks and soil (turning butterfly-spotting into a fun game for the kids), but when they open their wings, they reveal a vivid red. When they fly out in groups, it looks like falling petals scattering through the valley. Unfortunately, the dim lighting makes it hard to get good photos on your phone.
Noon sunlight filters through gaps in the dense forest, breaking into harmless fragments that float lightly on hat brims, between leaves, and in the stream. At moments like this, you forget you’re in romantic, sun-drenched Greece and feel as though you’re wandering through a poem by Wang Wei—where clear springs flow over stones, birdsong makes the mountains seem quieter, and red blooms emerge in the hills, blooming and falling in profusion…
Leaning lightly on the railing, listening to the murmuring stream and watching butterflies flicker in and out of the sunlight fragments, it’s easy to become lost in thought—as if drifting into Zhuang Zhou’s dream. But with two energetic kids around, distraction lasts only a moment.
On the way back to the hotel from Butterfly Valley, we had the rest of the afternoon to relax in our room. We sat on the balcony, sipped drinks, and watched the sea. Later, Dad “got off work,” and we went swimming again. But today, only the outdoor pool was available—not the ring-shaped water scenery pool, since an evening banquet was being set up inside. In the evening, while accompanying Dad to a conference banquet, Wei said she was sleepy before the food was even served. I took her for a stroll in the hotel backyard to catch the evening breeze, then we browsed the souvenir shop for clothes, which helped wake her up a bit. When we returned, a Greek folk dance performance had started, and Wei instantly perked up. In the end, the performers invited everyone on stage to join in, and Wei hopped up to dance along.
Day 5 Rhodes (Beaches, Rhodes Port, Old Town)
Dad finally had a free morning, so off to the beach we went. I remember chatting with a Greek colleague before the holiday. When she heard I was going to Rhodes, the first thing she recommended was the beaches there.
Rhodes has many beautiful beaches, but unfortunately, we didn’t have time to visit them all. The beach in front of our hotel has more pebbles, but the water is still gorgeous. Wei had a lot of fun, although she got a bit spooked after a big wave soaked her and she accidentally swallowed some saltwater. We told her it was a waste not to use her swim ring, and that she didn’t need it to just play in the waves. She dunked her swim ring in the incoming surf and said, “Then let the swim ring swim by itself.”
In the evening, we went to Rhodes Port. The island’s most famous attraction is right here—the 34-meter-tall Colossus of Rhodes once stood here. It rivaled the Great Pyramid of Giza as one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World.
The bronze statue, holding a torch and facing the sea, was built in 280 BC to celebrate Rhodes’ successful defense against invaders. It was cast from countless melted bronze weapons. However, the statue collapsed 56 years later during an earthquake. Its massive fragments reportedly lay scattered around the port for eight hundred years before being sold to a Jewish merchant by Islamic rulers in the 7th century, after which it disappeared without a trace.
Now, on either side of where the legendary Colossus once stood, only a pair of bronze deer stand, gilded in the soft gold of the Aegean sunset. The leaping deer are the symbol of Rhodes, standing guard over the harbor in place of the sun god—since the age of gods has long passed. Visitors can’t help but sigh, “The ancients have ridden their divine chariots away, leaving only bronze deer upon this shore…”
Wei looked up at the deer statues for a while and declared she was a little deer too. The rocks by the shore were dotted with little crabs taking shelter from the heat. Wei’s dad tried to catch one to show her, but the crabs, ever alert, retreated en masse into the sea. Due to past Turkish rule, the port area also features many buildings in an Islamic style, as well as numerous pleasure boats offering various sea outings.
After strolling around the port, we turned a corner and came upon a familiar stretch of wall. The Old Town has twelve gates, and this was one we hadn’t used before. We decided to enter the town to find some food and pick up souvenirs, but Wei insisted on playing on the slide and swings by the gate first. The Old Town takes on a special charm at dusk, with birds soaring above the long walls and a young street musician playing the accordion alone on the ancient path. I reminded Wei to put coins in the hat, but she ran over and placed them in the musician’s palm instead… The young performer smiled sheepishly. The sun may have already sunk below the sea, but the lights in the Old Town began to twinkle on one by one.
Day 6 Flight from Rhodes to Athens (Temple of Zeus, Hadrian's Arch, National Garden, Syntagma Square, Plaka District)
What I remember most about Rhodes is its ceaseless sea breeze. No matter where you are on the island, the wind always finds its way in, sweeping away all heat and worries. Although Athens also faces the sea, its coastline is about eight kilometers from the city center, making it feel like the downtown area is outside the reach of the sea breeze.
Although the temperature was only two degrees higher (31°C in Rhodes, 33°C in Athens), it felt much more stifling upon arrival. We reached our hotel at noon, rested in the room after lunch, and didn’t venture out until 3:30 p.m. But we still underestimated the intensity of the July sun in Athens (and overestimated Wei’s sun resistance, having grown up in the UK). Just an eight-minute walk to the Temple of Zeus left her hiding in the shade, refusing to come out. So we sat on the bench in front of the temple for a full hour, gazing at the 15 remaining towering marble columns out of the original 104, imagining the temple’s former glory. While hydrating and scrambling to recall any Greek myths about Zeus to tell Wei, I noticed she had wandered off to watch ants...
Near 5 p.m., Wei finally perked up, running around on the grass in front of the temple. We took the opportunity to admire Hadrian's Arch before cutting through the lush National Garden back to the hotel.
In the evening, we headed out again, first playing by the fountains at Syntagma Square, then having dinner at a restaurant near the ruins of the Baths of the Winds, followed by a stroll through the famous Plaka District. Wei found her favorite souvenir of the trip here—a child-sized oud.
What surprised me was that whether in the old town of Rhodes or the Plaka District in Athens, not only were restaurants and bars open late, but almost all small shops stayed open until 11 or 12 p.m., still bustling well into the night. In the UK, everything would be shut by 6 p.m., right? Who says the Greek people aren’t hardworking? Of course, some shop owners while away the time chatting, drinking, watching TV, and cooling off while keeping their shops open—sure, they’re not always fully focused, haha.
Day 7 Athens (Parliament Building, New Acropolis Museum, Acropolis, Acropolis Night View)
After breakfast at the hotel, we went to watch the changing of the guard in front of the Parliament Building.
The Greek guards, armed and dressed in uniforms adorned with traditional embellishments, perform the ritual in slow, exaggerated steps. Yet the entire ceremony in front of the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier carries an air of solemn dignity. Wei even took a photo with the stern-looking guard, and later back at the hotel, she was imitating his high-stepping march—VYun?
We took a little train at Syntagma Square, looping halfway around the city center. We had planned to get off at the Panathenaic Stadium, but Wei was enjoying the cool breeze too much, leaning against the railing, and refused to get off. Eventually, we ended up at the Acropolis Museum.
The Acropolis Museum is one of the newest museums in Athens, built directly atop ancient Athenian ruins, so the first floor features many transparent glass floors, allowing visitors to peek below. Five of the six original Caryatid statues from the Erechtheion are housed here (the sixth is in the British Museum…). The entire third floor is dedicated to the Parthenon Hall, displaying reconstructions of all the sculptures and reliefs from the Parthenon, arranged in their original positions. It feels as though you’re wandering through the great temple of 3,000 years ago. But when you turn to the floor-to-ceiling windows, the ruins of the Parthenon stand quietly atop the Acropolis, and the abrupt shift between history and reality can be almost overwhelming.
After lunch back at the hotel, having learned from yesterday, we rested until after 5 p.m. before finally heading out to the Acropolis. We entered through a side gate, with our first stop being the semi-ruined Theatre of Dionysus, followed by the still-functioning Theatre of Herodes Atticus—which has been hosting performances for over two thousand years (we passed by just as they were testing the sound system for that night’s opera). Continuing up the steps, through the Propylaea, past the Temple of Athena Nike, the Erechtheion, and the Parthenon, Wei measured every step with her little feet. But what made her happiest was meeting a pair of Chinese siblings from Sweden, who ran up hand-in-hand, laughing and chasing after a cat...
Under the setting sun, the Acropolis seemed to glow with an inner radiance, and amid the world’s oldest and most magnificent marble structures, three kids joyfully chased a cat...
We had dinner with our new friends’ family in the Plaka District. After saying goodbye, we returned to the hotel and went up to the rooftop to gaze at the night view of the Acropolis. The temples we had just visited appeared like glowing constellations against the dark sky. Back in the room, Wei refused to sleep, clumsily strumming a mini oud with a pick.
Day 8 Flight from Athens to London
Bidding farewell to Athens, we flew back to London. Leaving with many memories, we look forward to the day we return to this blue-hued land.