Text by / MOOK Travel Mofei Photos by / Charlie, Mark
Early in the morning, they were about to leave Changbin for Fengbin when, before even reaching Charlie’s destination, his phone rang. It was an old university junior calling to invite the two of them to her homestay — Lang Xingfu — which she had opened in Taitung with her friends. Although it was a pity that all the rooms were fully booked, they still got to enjoy authentic Amis cuisine and set off with full energy.
On the road near Shoufeng, they met a fate-loving auntie who insisted everything happens for a reason and forcefully gave each of them NT$100.
PART9 Fengbin Township, Taitung Hualien City
They had set off at noon. After passing through the Jingpu area, they aimed to reach Yuandong, but the two decided not to go into the cave as time was getting tight. When they reached the Tropic of Cancer marker, they didn’t even feel like taking photos because they were so far behind schedule. Finally arriving at Shitiping, they found the accommodation prices were way over their budget. Exchanging glances, they steeled themselves and pushed on towards Fengbin. The endless East Coast Highway grew darker, with no streetlights, waves splashing water on their faces, and even creepy cemeteries along the way. The two didn’t speak, relying on their remaining willpower to keep going.
Less than half an hour after leaving Changbin, they received a call from Charlie’s university junior inviting them to her home.
It took them over two hours before they finally spotted that shiny 7-Eleven. Throughout their island loop journey, 7-Eleven had become their best companion. With their energy and willpower nearly drained, they didn’t care about the price or condition of the homestay, checked in, and immediately went to sleep. Before leaving the next morning, the homestay owner egged them on, prompting them to attempt a 50-km push to enter Hualien City within a day. After passing through mountains, tunnels, and caves, they were stopped by a cute auntie in Shoufeng who shoved NT$200 into their hands, saying it was all about fate and building good karma. They used the kind gift to treat themselves to a hearty meal.
The beach in Changbin, a relaxing and calming coastline.
Before reaching Hualien City, they met two female university students who had just finished their internships and were heading home. Super kind, they gave the exhausted pair a ride into the city, ending their over ten-hour trek for the day. The two went to the night market to grab some late-night snacks, then rented a scooter the next day to see the spectacular Taroko Gorge. Back in the city, they ate flat dumplings, tofu pudding, skewers, and even tried authentic indigenous millet wine—it was as if they were making up for all the exhaustion of the past few days, especially since the upcoming Su-Hua Highway was quite intimidating.
How will the tough road ahead be faced?
Q&A
For a cycling island loop trip, does your family support you? Why?
Charlie C
They’re actually totally against it, but even though they say no, they’ve given me a lot of help because there are too many unpredictable factors on the road that worry them.
Mark M
My family supports my decision because my dad is someone who loves mountains and the sea. Since we were kids, he often took us brothers hiking and exploring nature, experiencing the beauty of the outdoors.
At the moral fruit stand, it’s all up to your conscience.
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