During the summer vacation of 2015, I met three teenagers from Sichuan at my hotel in Ulan-Ude. They were around 20 years old and had just graduated from Harbin University. Full of spirit, they planned to cycle from Manzhouli through Siberian highways with the goal of camping by Lake Baikal.
They had previously met a Buryat student named Dima who was studying in Harbin. He taught us how to get to Lake Baikal on a budget.
From Ulan-Ude, the closest destination to the lake is Vydrino (Выдрино), referred to by Russians as the “Gateway to Lake Baikal.” The villages around Lake Baikal are known for selling the famous omul fish at their outdoor markets,
After a three-and-a-half-hour ride, we arrived in Vydrino (Выдрино) and set down our backpacks, tents, drinks, and food on one of Baikal’s beaches before taking a short rest.
After resting, we walked to a nearby restaurant to try authentic Russian cuisine — mutton dumplings.
The restaurant owner personally demonstrated how to make mutton dumplings.
We pitched our tent on the sandy beach,enjoying the vast, pristine landscape. We sat quietly on the shore, admiring the blue sky and lake view, while other visitors swam in the crystal-clear waters. It’s said that the lake water flows from the Arctic down through Siberia, and Baikal is one of its stops, so even under the blazing sun, the water felt freezing cold when I swam.
We stayed in the Vydrino (Выдрино) area of Lake Baikal for four days and three nights, living a relatively primitive lifestyle without phones or fluorescent lights. At dusk, the entire surface of Lake Baikal turned golden and mirror-like. I still remember watching the sunset by the lakeside while playing Li Jian’s song “By Lake Baikal,” which set the mood — as the sun set, the music made everything feel hushed and melancholy.
“In my arms, in your eyes
Where the spring breeze is intoxicating and the grass is lush green
Moonlight spills love across the lake surface
The bonfire of two illuminates the whole night
Many years later, drifting like clouds
Those changing footsteps make it hard for us to hold hands
In this lifetime, how many of you and me
Are swallowed up in moonlit nights like water”
- By Lake Baikal, Li Jian
The four of us young people sat together and had a hot pot meal.
Near Lake Baikal, there is an underground water source, the village’s only lifeline. We drank its water for all four days — no boiling needed, it was ice cold and sweet !
This wooden house is the only general store around, where we bought all our food and drinks.
Omul fish is a favorite among Russians, found in Lake Baikal, and a must-try when visiting Siberia.
The area around Lake Baikal also drew us to explore its surroundings. The coastline offers hiking trails where you can breathe in the fresh air of nature. Summers here experience large temperature variations — averaging 15°C in the early morning and evening, and peaking at 29°C in the afternoon. July is also the rainy season. Uniquely, unlike other regions in Russia, Lake Baikal enjoys sunny days even during daylight saving time, accompanied by birdsong, unlike the often overcast skies of Moscow or Novosibirsk.
Hiking allows you to enjoy the scenery filled with birdsong and fragrant flowers, and along the way, you can also see many vibrant plants, as well as squirrels roaming about.
On the fourth day, we packed our backpacks and left, all of us feeling reluctant to say goodbye to Lake Baikal.
We have to say, this journey was not only enjoyable, but every sight and experience was unlike anything we had tried before. Together, we learned and experienced life in Siberia and around Lake Baikal, understanding different ways of living and seeing the world, and sharing these experiences.
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Edward’s Expedition Notes
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