Rigid movements are replaced by flexibility, efficiency, and reliability. Many moves are borrowed from rock climbing, turning the act into a fluid dance on ice. Stem (spread-leg stance), backstep (cross-step), highstep (high step?), heelhook (heel hook), layback, bouncestep (bounce step) are all usable techniques. Identify the most effective way to climb based on the actual situation. Your goal should be control, technique, and balance.
Crampons and Boots
You need a pair of stiff crampons with either a single or double front points. Many experts trust single front point crampons, and some won’t use anything else. Single front point crampons are especially suitable for mixed routes and thin ice because they allow for precise and delicate kicks; on thick ice, double front points offer more stability. On warmer or softer ice, double front points are also preferable, while single front points can turn such ice into mush.
Make sure the points are sharp. File them by hand to resemble shark teeth. However, be careful when using them—incorrect kicking can easily tear your clothes, leaving you to cry out in distress over your “GoreTex” (hehe).
When you first start climbing on ice, you may find it hard to trust your crampons, especially in very cold weather when the ice is brittle. Many beginners kick the ice multiple times with each step. There’s no need to constantly struggle with the ice—just one or two stable, accurate kicks are enough to support your body. Secure your foot quickly, then shift your weight onto it, but make sure it’s safe. Unstable kicks or strikes will hinder your ability to perform subsequent climbing moves.
On low-angle water ice or mid-grade alpine ice routes, the flat-foot French technique works well. Stomp firmly to drive the crampon points securely into the ice, twist your ankle to engage all the points, then sidle upward (Figure 1). The pure French technique is easier on the calves but is difficult and unsafe on steeper icefalls. When resting, keep your feet flat even on small slopes. The common method is to stand straight with one leg using the flat-foot technique and place most of your weight on that leg, while using the other foot’s front points for stability (to help maintain balance).
When using the front-pointing technique, choose the best footholds—such as ice holes made by your ice axe, flat or concave ice surfaces, or a small ice edge. One or two accurate, powerful kicks will set the front points securely. Press your heel down, relax your calves, and rest the second pair of front points on the ice (Figure 2) (Editor’s note: beginners, often out of fear, tend to point their heels up and lean their bodies forward against the ice wall, which is tiring, drains energy, and makes stability harder to achieve). For single front point crampons, this creates a stable three-point support, while double front points form a four-point support. When climbing thin ice or rock, place the front points on rock edges or in cracks to keep your feet stable and avoid slipping.
Small Ice Axes
The ice axe is the ice climber’s ultimate tool. With it, you can grip ice, chop steps, hack hard ice, position ice screws before placing them, or use it for self-arrest on snowy slopes. The key part of the ice axe is the pick (the adze head). There are three basic types of picks: positive curve and straight picks are used for alpine climbing, while reverse curve picks are used for icefall climbing (Figure 3). Keep your pick sharp for optimal performance (use a hand file). The other end of the pick head is a shovel or hammer. For icefall or mixed routes, some climbers choose two hammers, which makes it easier to hammer in pitons while avoiding facial injury (Editor’s note: try simulating this yourself—if one hand is held straight up and stationary while the other crosses over to hammer on the opposite side, what happens? Hehe, if the tool bounces back, it could hit you right in the face!). For alpine climbing, you need one hammer and one shovel; the shovel is used for digging into snow and ice to create steps or platforms.
The shaft is the part you grip and also transmits force. On steep ice, people over 6 feet (1.83 meters) tall can opt for a 50 cm shaft, while shorter individuals might consider a 45 cm one. A curved shaft performs better on convex ice and helps prevent knuckle impacts on the ice. A straight shaft is better in alpine environments because it’s easier to plunge into hard snow when setting up boot-axe belays. The end of the shaft has a sharp spike, useful as a walking stick on low-angle ice. A dull tip can slip on ice, while an overly sharp one might tear your clothes; a medium-sharp spike is just right.
    Helmet
A helmet protects your head from falling ice. Always wear one—it’s foolish to ice climb without a helmet. Ultra-light helmets save weight but can’t withstand heavy impacts. For long-term use, choose a sturdy one. It’s best if it’s easy to adjust in size, making it convenient to put on or take off.
Rope
Double (here referring to doublerope or halfrope) dry ropes are well suited for ice climbing. They don’t freeze hard when wet. It’s terrible if the waterproof coating wears off during rock climbing. So, if possible, keep a pair of ropes specifically for ice climbing. If your rope starts absorbing water, you can restore its performance with a special waterproofing agent, available at most climbing shops. Double rope technique involves alternating the two ropes through protection points, reducing rope drag and fall impact (by increasing rope elongation). If one rope breaks, the other serves as a backup (Editor’s note: since ice climbers carry many sharp tools, the risk of rope damage during a fall is much higher than in rock climbing, making backups especially important). A 55m or 60m single rope of 10 to 11mm diameter can also be used for ice climbing, simplifying rope management.