Because amateur cyclists vary in physical condition and the weight of their equipment also differs greatly (generally, lighter bikes can use one to two teeth more than heavier bikes at the same pedaling cadence), lighter bikes, while offering better acceleration and climbing, are more affected by wind resistance compared to heavier bikes. Therefore, to take full advantage of a lighter bike, better shifting skills are required. The same principle applies to heavier and lighter riders when controlling their gear shifts.
However, using the largest gear ratio or a very small one is not ideal. Many enthusiasts think that using the largest front chainring and the smallest rear cog will allow them to achieve good speed at the lowest cadence, but this is incorrect. A high gear ratio means each pedal stroke requires more force and results in a lower cadence, which slows down blood circulation and makes muscles more prone to oxygen deficiency. Moreover, an 11-tooth or 12-tooth cog is the least durable part of the entire drivetrain and is actually meant for high-cadence, high-speed descents.
Beginners often shift to a smaller gear ratio as soon as they see a big hill, which causes an immediate spike in cadence. Before the muscles have adapted, this leads to quick muscle fatigue. Additionally, because the gear ratio becomes too light, speed drops rapidly. When other riders overtake, the already fatigued legs are forced to pedal even faster, and after just one or two hills, those using smaller gear ratios will quickly show their weakness. The correct way to shift during a climb is to wait until the bike is already halfway up the slope and your feet start to feel increased pressure before shifting. The adjustment range is usually about 2 or 3 cogs at a time, depending on the steepness of the slope. This requires not only physical strength but also experience. Standing while pedaling at the beginning of a climb can also provide higher speed and delay the need to reduce the gear ratio, giving your legs more time to adapt to the cadence.
Additionally, when shifting on a slope, the chain tension is often too high, preventing the front derailleur from downshifting. Here’s a small tip: when shifting down on the front chainring, ease up slightly on the pedals. This reduces chain tension and makes it easier for the chain to move to the smaller chainring. The same technique applies when shifting the rear derailleur on a slope where the chain is under high tension. This helps protect the entire drivetrain system.
Since bicycle types and the specific situations of amateur cyclists vary, we won’t provide specific reference standards here. In short, shifting is a crucial skill, and proper shifting can help you ride faster and with less effort.
Generally, using a large chainring with a large cog or a small chainring with a small cog is not the correct way to shift. A large chainring with a large cog creates excessive chain tension, which can damage the rear derailleur and increase friction. Similarly, a small chainring with a small cog is also incorrect, as it makes the chain too loose, increasing the risk of malfunctions during rough terrain (such as the chain hitting the frame or rubbing against the tire). Small chainrings and small cogs are also the components that wear out the fastest in the drivetrain. Therefore, for high speed, use a large chainring with a small cog, and for the easiest climbing gear, use a small chainring with a large cog—that’s the proper way to use your gears.
Additionally, the 22-tooth smallest chainring on a mountain bike is actually the least frequently used component. One of its main purposes is to prevent the chain from falling off on the second chainring layer during severe bumps. However, using the 22-tooth chainring with a large cog can easily cause the rear wheel to slip and lose speed. Therefore, try to avoid using this gear combination on a mountain bike unless you’re on an extremely steep slope, and even then, ensure smooth pedaling to successfully climb the slope.