Saddle
The height of the saddle is determined by riding conditions
■ Basic Position
Sit on the saddle, place the crank arms along the extension line of the seat tube, and put your heels on the pedals. If you can straighten your legs in this posture, that’s your saddle’s basic position. This setting is used when pedaling efficiency is prioritized.
When bending and extending the knees, the smaller the bend, the more comfortable the knees will be. The same applies to pedaling—the smaller the bend, the less fatigued you’ll get, and knee rotation will be smoother. However, don’t raise the saddle too high, as doing so makes it difficult to handle road conditions such as cracks and may even injure the back of your knees.
■ Downhill
On steep ascents and descents, lower the saddle 5–10 cm from the basic position so that one-third of your foot can touch the ground while seated. This makes it easier to put your feet down. For trials, the lower the saddle, the easier it is to shift your weight and the better the mountain bike’s handling.
Right photo: (Top) Posture when pedaling is the priority. (Bottom) Posture when handling is the priority.
Left photo: When going downhill, the saddle height should allow your hips to move smoothly backward.
Saddle direction / front-back position / installation angle
■ Direction:As shown in the left image, align the centerline of the saddle with the centerline of the seat tube.
■ Front-back position:Place the saddle’s center or slightly toward the back. (As shown in the left image, align the saddle and seat post centers.)
■ Tilt:As shown in the left image, keep the top of the saddle parallel to the ground.
The above serves as a reference, as saddle position and installation angle vary by individual. Adjust gradually while testing until you’re satisfied. ※Adjustment method: As shown in the right image, use an Allen wrench to loosen the bolt under the saddle for adjustment. After each adjustment, ensure the saddle remains straight when tightening.
Handlebars
Adjust the handlebar height, angle, and width as needed. Then ride, adjust again, ride some more, and tweak until you're satisfied.
Handlebar height
● Basic:Set the handlebar height the same as the saddle height.
◎ Beginners or for bike touring, set it slightly higher.
◎ For competitive cyclists, set it lower, but not too low.
● Adjusting handlebar height
Insert a 6mm Allen wrench into the hex hole at the top of the handlebar stem. Turn counterclockwise to loosen the inner screw, allowing the handlebar stem to move up or down. If rusted and stuck, slightly loosen the screw, tap the screw from above with the wrench, or apply lubricant.
Handlebar stem angle
Adjust the handlebar stem based on your feel after riding—whether the bend is parallel to the ground or slightly upward, for example.
※ Adjusting the angle of the handlebar stem
Mountain bikes typically use stems with 3° or 5° angles, but some also use 10° bends.
Handlebar width
Handlebar width: shoulder width plus 5 cm (on each side). The most common commercial handlebar width is 600 mm. If it’s too wide, you can cut both ends—cut while adjusting as needed. When climbing in a seated position, having a handlebar width equal to your shoulder width makes it easier to pull on the bars.
Securing and removing the handlebars
● Securing the handlebars
To prevent the handlebars from coming loose or rotating during riding, secure them with adhesive or tighten them with wire. When cutting the wire, leave about 1 cm and tuck it inside the handlebar.
● Installing and removing the handlebars
If the handlebars are screwed on too tightly and won’t come off, inject water between the handlebar and the stem, or use an air compressor to blow air into the hole on the handlebar side to increase internal pressure. Seal the other hole on the handlebar when injecting air.
If the handlebars are very old and no longer in use, you can cut them open with a knife—but be careful not to damage the stem.
Brakes
Brake lever angle
While sitting on the saddle, extend your arm straight out (in a straight line), and install the brake lever at the point where your hand naturally reaches. This position reduces strain on the wrist and neck and also makes braking easier.
※ Leave about one finger’s width of space between the brake and the handlebar. If it’s too narrow, it may pinch your hand; if too wide, braking becomes less effective.
Brake lever adjustment
Angle of installation adjustment
Before adjusting, lower the lever to a position about 30°–45° below horizontal, then loosen the screw with an Allen wrench and adjust to the desired position. For adjusting the grip width as shown in the photo, adjust the outer grip width screw on the brake lever. Note that different components may have different adjustment methods.
Wheels
Tire adjustment
Among all bicycle components, tire adjustments have the most noticeable effect. The most easily adjustable tire components are the tire itself, inner tube, rim, and rim tape. Tires come with various performance characteristics, and you can prioritize certain traits based on your riding conditions. Tires can generally be selected based on tread pattern and width.