This article introduces two descent methods where both the rescuer and the rescued descend together. The Assisted Rappel and Counter-Weight Rappel techniques can be used when a climbing partner is injured and needs to retreat during a multi-pitch climb or when guiding a novice down.
Assisted Rappel (AssistedRappel)
The Assisted Rappel is a descent technique where the rescuer and the rescued share the main rope and descender. It is commonly used when the rescued person is unable to descend due to injury or lack of experience.
First, clip the double rope into the descender and a carabiner. To prevent the rope end from accidentally slipping out of the descender, tie the two rope ends together before starting the descent. To avoid operational inconvenience that could hinder a smooth descent, use slings of different lengths or a sling loop (with an overhand knot in the middle) clipped into the carabiner on the descender. Next, connect the two ends of the sling or loop to the harnesses of the rescuer and the rescued using carabiners. At this point, the length of the sling connecting the rescued person to the descender can be adjusted according to the situation. A shorter sling allows the rescued to be supported by the rescuer’s legs during descent. If the length matches that of the rescuer’s sling, the two can descend side by side, but this may cause an uneven descent. Generally, when the rescued is injured and the rescuer can easily reach the descender, I prefer using a longer sling to position the rescued below me, which makes carrying the injured person as convenient as carrying a backpack.
Use an Autoblock knot (see diagram) on the main rope below the descender as a backup for this descent system. Tie the Autoblock with a short sling or sling loop and connect it to the leg loop of the rescuer’s harness. Use separate slings to connect the harnesses of the rescued and the rescuer via Girth Hitches (see diagram), then attach each sling to a carabiner. These carabiners and slings are used to connect the rescued and the rescuer to the anchor during multi-pitch descents. Monitor the condition of the rescued during descent.
Counter-Weight Rappel (Counter-WeightRappel)
The Counter-Weight Rappel technique involves the rescuer and the rescued sharing the main rope, balancing each other’s weight during descent. Essentially, both descend on the same main rope.
For the Counter-Weight method, although all the techniques mentioned here are applicable, they must be practiced and mastered thoroughly before use in a real rescue. During practice, both the simulated injured person and the rescuer should have safety ropes and belayers to ensure security without affecting the operation.
Single-Pitch Descent
In a single-pitch descent, the rescuer and the rescued both connect to a reliable anchor. Use slings with Girth Hitches to attach to their respective harnesses, then connect to the anchor via carabiners. This setup also requires the climbers to share the main rope, with the rescued connected to one end of it.
If the rescued is injured or otherwise unable to operate, you might encounter some difficulty unclipping them from the anchor. In such cases, you can use a Mariner Knot (see diagram) to connect the rescued to the anchor. The rescued’s weight will rest on the Mariner Knot, with the original sling and carabiner serving as a backup. When using a Mariner Knot to anchor the rescued, if necessary, use two slings connected via Girth Hitches to ensure sufficient length for tying the knot. If you use a sling loop to connect the rescued, the Munter Mule Knot (see diagram) works better than the Mariner Knot. (Translator’s note: I do not recommend using a Mariner Knot tied with two slings connected via Girth Hitches.)
Note that when the descent distance exceeds half the rope length, you’ll need to connect two ropes. Descending with two connected ropes requires two additional techniques. First, the rescuer must pass the knot during descent. Second, during multi-pitch descents, the rescuer must untie the rescued’s rope to retrieve it.
In a single-pitch Counter-Weight Rappel, the rescued remains tied to one end of the main rope, while the rescuer manages feeding the rope into the descender to facilitate descent.
System Setup
1. Tie an overhand knot at the rope end to prevent it from slipping out of the descender. This knot will come in handy sooner or later and almost never comes undone on its own.
2. Use Girth Hitches to connect two slings into a chest harness for the rescued. Connect it to the main rope on the rescued’s side using a carabiner and a prusik loop.
Operation Steps
1. Install the descender on the main rope below the anchor on the rescuer’s side. Extend the descender (usually using a sling), and tie an Autoblock knot on the rope below it, connecting it to your leg loop as a backup.
2. Tie a Mule Knot with an overhand backup (see diagram) to lock the descender.
3. On the main rope on the rescued’s side, tie a Prusik Knot (see diagram) about half a meter above the rescued’s harness. If a chest harness is used, tie this knot above the prusik connected to the harness.
4. Clip the other end of this prusik to the rescuer’s harness.
Note: During descent, this Prusik Knot will tighten. Therefore, when attaching it to the rescuer’s harness, thread it through both the waist belt and the leg loops.
5. Remove the sling and carabiner the rescued used to connect to the anchor, undo the Mariner Knot so that the descender and Mule Knot take the load.
6. Undo the Mule Knot so that all the weight is on the descender, then finally unclip the rescuer from the anchor and begin descent.
Option: Descend side by side, or (if the rescued is injured) carry them piggyback. If using this method to carry the rescued, the prusik connecting the main rope on their side to your harness should be positioned in front of you. The section of rope between the prusik and the rescued’s harness—or the rescued themselves—should be positioned behind and above your shoulder.
Multiple descents
If you need to pass through several protection stations to reach the ground, you must establish new anchors at each station and connect both yourself and the person being rescued to them. In addition, you will need to retrieve the rope and set up a new descent system.
First, use an Autoblock knot to lock the main rope to stop the descent, then tie a figure-eight knot in the section of the main rope below the descender and clip it into your harness as a backup. Next, establish an anchor for the next descent. If the person being rescued is unable to assist, you can connect them to the protection station using a Mariner knot or a Munter Mule knot. In this case, use a webbing strap to tie a Girth Hitch around the person’s harness and connect it to the protection station via a carabiner.
Use the same method to connect yourself to the protection station, then untie the Autoblock knot to put the anchor under load. Then carefully check that the person being rescued remains connected to the main rope at all times. (Note: It is recommended to use the Assisted method for the subsequent descent, as it is more efficient.)
1. Take the main rope out of the descender, untie the figure-eight knot at the end used to prevent slippage, and pull the rope.
Note: If you are descending on two joined main ropes, you need to disconnect the person being rescued from the main rope while retrieving it.
2. Tie a figure-eight knot at the end of the rope to prevent accidental slippage. Set up the system for the next descent.
3. Load the main rope into the descender and tie a Mule knot.
4. Continue the descent according to the earlier instructions on Counter-Weight descent.