Crimp Grip
When your fingers grip the edge of a hold, you usually hold tightly. But often, some holds can be gripped entirely with the palm rather than relying solely on finger strength, and a full-palm grip can also increase stability.
Open Hand Grip
If the edge of a hold or the small pockets of certain points can support the second joint of your fingers, your hand can lie flat against the rock face. This allows you to open your hand, bring your fingers together, and make full contact with the hold, without tightly gripping it. In this motion, the thumb generally plays a smaller role, but if the hold is sloped, the thumb can pinch the hold along with the other fingers. Generally, if the hold is round, the open hand grip is the best option.Traveler's Taleshttp://bbs.xzwyu.com
Pinch Grip
When your hand encounters a relatively small hold that your four fingers can encircle when closed, you can use your thumb to press down on your index finger to pinch the hold. When performing a pinch grip, avoid putting unnecessary pressure or tension on your fingers to prevent injury. [When your palm is facing upward and you’re pulling down on a hold, you need to use a reverse pinch. This gripping technique is often used to maintain balance and is achieved through the counterforce between hands or between hands and feet.]
Hook Grip
A hook grip involves bending your palm, bringing your four fingers together, and pressing your thumb against your index finger, then using the outer edge of your palm to hook the hold. Because the thumb joint is very strong, it helps control the hand shape well, making this grip not only powerful but also giving the other fingers a good chance to relax. In fact, by bending your wrist to hook the hold, you can also relax your forearm, so this wrist-hooking action serves as an excellent resting posture. This move is commonly used on small, rounded protrusions and spherical holds.
Squeeze Grip
When a hold has no edges to grab and you can only rely on finger friction, you need to use a squeeze grip. Generally, the direction in which your thumb squeezes is opposite to the direction in which your fingers grip. But sometimes, some squeezable holds allow you to press your thumb against the edge of the hold, with the pressing direction aligned with the force of your four fingers.
Side Pull
The basic technique of a side pull is to angle your body sideways against the wall, using the opposite-side hand and foot to contact the wall, while extending the other leg straight to help balance your body. You then use the strength of one leg to push your body up and reach for a higher hold. This move is mainly used when navigating overhanging sections or when holds are aligned in a near-straight line.
"Pocket" Technique
On natural rock faces, you often find many small pockets. Modern climbing competitions also frequently feature "pocket holds." These range from narrow slits to ones that can fit one or two fingers, or even entire hands. When grabbing these pockets, first feel around inside to locate the deepest part to grip. Among all pocket types, single-finger pockets are the most challenging—carelessness can easily strain finger tendons. If a single-pocket hold is in a downward-pulling direction, you can brace your middle finger against your index finger to improve stability. The shapes and sizes of handholds vary, and the same hold may have multiple gripping methods. But to quickly choose the best technique, you’ll need plenty of practice to master and apply them flexibly. Finger strength is crucial in using these hand techniques. You can train regularly with exercises like finger push-ups, pull-ups, hanging leg raises, and lifting weights. (Green Earth)