In PHILPOWER’s book WILDERNESS MOUNTAINEERING, he equates risk with the amount of time exposed to danger multiplied by the likelihood of that danger occurring. For example, climbing all day beneath other climbers is more dangerous than quickly passing beneath them. Similarly, the risk of icicles collapsing is much higher on warm days than on cold ones. So you should wait until the likelihood of danger decreases, and try to minimize your exposure to risk — that’s how you’ll live longer.
Avalanches: The White Monster
Avalanches are the greatest danger ice climbers may face. Ice walls require a large amount of water to form, so there is usually a vast expanse of snow above the climbing route. When snow is released as a massive flow rather than a small stream, the consequences can be severe. In Canada’s ICEFIELDS PARKWAY, on a warm afternoon, we observed ten avalanches on our climbing route within thirty minutes. Later, we learned that just shortly before, three groups of ice climbers had been killed in avalanches. The best way to prevent avalanche disasters is to systematically learn about avalanche forecasting and snow stability assessment.
Regardless of your training level or experience, you must stay alert during the climb and anticipate potential problems when making decisions. No two snowflakes are alike, and neither are any two avalanches.
Unstable Ice Walls
Ice is surprisingly strong. Today, skilled ice climbers can scale icicles no wider than their own bodies. If handled properly, a chunk of ice the size of a fist can support the weight of even the strongest climber. But even the best climbers can misjudge the solidity of the ice.
Some types of ice walls are less stable, including ice hangs, icicles, ice towers, and ice ledges. Ice walls that are poorly bonded to the rock are often the most dangerous. Before climbing, carefully observe whether there is running water between the ice and the cliff face along your route. If there is, or if the weather is unusually warm, avoid those tricky ice walls. Direct sunlight weakens ice strength, increases water flow, and especially in late winter or warmer climates, can even melt out anchors.
Bruce Hendricks, an accomplished climber active in the Rocky Mountains, has a unique method for testing seemingly fragile ice walls. He strikes the ice with the side of his ice axe with full force — if it wobbles, he leaves immediately. If it makes noise, he reconsiders; and if he still decides to climb, he moves more gently. If neither wobbling nor noise occurs, he deems the ice solid (relatively speaking). This method works well for assessing smaller ice walls but is not suitable for massive icicles.
Climbers are the least stable objects on an ice wall — they can fall off at any moment. Don’t place protection in areas where their ice axes or crampons might drop.
“ICE!”
If possible, place protection in a sheltered spot. But sometimes you have to set up protection in the “kill zone.” In these situations, stay upright — crouching exposes your back and neck. If you can, hide under your pack. Also, even if your belayer is sheltered, shout “ICE!” to alert everyone below when chunks are falling.
You can remove some broken ice if doing so won’t harm your partner or others. During descent, knock down any hazardous icicles or ice hangs to prevent the rope from scraping them loose and sending them crashing onto your head on the way down. Even so, try not to damage the ice wall unnecessarily.
Most falling ice is caused by other climbers. Avoid climbing beneath others whenever possible. But inevitably, some reckless individuals will climb beneath your route. If you’re climbing in a busy area, start early and coordinate with others to ensure a safe and harmonious environment for everyone.
Cold
Staying Warm = Blocking Cold Air + Metabolism + Water + Heat + Movement
Consider all the factors in the above equation thoroughly before heading out in winter, and take preventive measures. Eat and drink well the night before climbing. Keep moving to avoid getting cold, prepare heat packs, bring extra thick gloves, loosen your shoelaces, and fully understand the capabilities and limits of your gear. While climbing, remember that ice and metal objects can stick to skin easily (don’t hold carabiners in your mouth when placing protection), and small mistakes can lead to big trouble. On warmer days, practice various protection placements wearing thick gloves, and get a feel for your performance limits when sensitivity is reduced. More importantly, watch out for signs of frostbite, hypothermia, or other abnormalities among your climbing partners.
Darkness
When climbing multi-pitch routes or routes that require long approaches, you must bring a headlamp. Even for a short one-day climb, it’s wise to carry a headlamp, because you never know when the rope might get stuck or other delays might occur — not to mention, in winter, night falls quickly.
Forced Bivouac
In winter, an unprepared bivouac is a serious matter. Use body heat, huddle together, carry a small blanket, or, better yet, bring a bivy sack. Stay active to maintain body heat. If you’re not on technical terrain, removing your crampons can reduce heat loss from your feet. Down jackets and snow caves can help you survive almost any harsh night — but I doubt you’d want to test that theory.
Blizzard
Eighty percent of avalanches occur during or within 24 hours after a blizzard, and eighty percent of mountaineering fatalities happen in the same period. Snow blindness, frozen ropes, frostbitten fingers, snow accumulation, and exhaustion greatly reduce your chances of escape. Study the terrain in advance to identify escape routes and landmarks, so you can find the right path even when visibility drops. Bring a map and compass, or GPS, and know how to use them.
Researching the likelihood and types of blizzards in a given area in advance is highly valuable — it helps inform your decisions and prepares you mentally. Check the weather forecast before winter climbing, but note that general forecasts may not reflect true alpine conditions.
Leader Fall
In some ways, ice climbing is closer to kayaking than to rock climbing. It’s best to lead dozens of easier routes before tackling harder ones — just as a smart kayaker gradually takes on wilder rapids. In rock climbing, a fall is often safe and can even help you relax. But ice climbing is a different story; most climbers do everything possible to avoid falling. If a leader falls and isn’t injured, they’re extremely lucky. If you fall, do your best to kick your crampons free from the ice and grip your ice axe tightly.
Descent
The advantage of descending on ice is that you can set up rappel anchors anywhere there’s solid, thick ice. The downside is that nothing on ice is entirely reliable. Movement on ice can trigger avalanches, and factors like snow blindness, exhaustion, and short winter daylight hours make descending big ice walls a serious undertaking. Before you go, learn how to use ABALAKOVS (Abalakov thread anchors), practice setting your own anchors, bring a headlamp, and pack enough batteries for the descent.
Incorrect grading
Ice wall grading is never entirely accurate, and relying on it completely can be very dangerous. If a route looks terrifying, don’t attempt to climb it just because its difficulty rating is within your ability—what’s graded as WI4 can escalate to WI6 under poor conditions.
Sixth sense
Most ice climbers have a sixth sense that gives subtle hints when they’re approaching danger. Don’t ignore this inner voice—if something feels off, back off immediately.