Compared to rock climbing, ice climbing is significantly more dangerous. Unstable ice walls can suddenly shed chunks of ice, injuring climbers or even collapsing entirely, posing life-threatening risks. Sharp ice axes, crampons, and ice screws can easily harm both the climber and others, while fragile and unstable anchors often become a nightmare for lead climbers. Cold temperatures also bring the risk of hypothermia and frostbite... In recent years, there have been no shortage of climbers injured while ice climbing.
I remember when I used to conduct ice climbing training, the first question I would ask students upon their arrival at the base of an ice wall was: What kind of dangers might you encounter when preparing to climb such an ice route? This is a crucial topic. The purpose of learning climbing techniques is not only to improve our climbing skills, but more importantly, to use what we’ve learned to prevent and avoid potential risks. Every ice climber should ask themselves this question, objectively assess their abilities and skills, and determine whether they can adequately predict potential problems with the ice wall and possess the necessary techniques and knowledge to address these possible crises.
In the following sections, drawing from our climbing practices and experiences, I will use a listing method to discuss the following two questions: First, where are the dangers? Second, how do we operate? I hope these analyses will be helpful to everyone.
1. Unstable Ice Conditions
Ice is an unstable state that changes drastically with varying light and temperature, harboring energy that can be life-threatening to ice climbers.
1. Dangerous Ice Walls
The collapse of an ice wall can be catastrophic. In such an event, anyone climbing on the wall or below it could face fatal consequences. Therefore, it’s extremely important for climbers to assess the condition of the ice wall itself, especially during spring, warmer temperatures, or on sun-exposed ice walls, which warrant heightened vigilance.
Some indicators for assessment:
n In spring, when temperatures are high, sun-exposed ice walls may appear white due to sunlight.
n The ice wall separates from the rock face, and your ice axe makes a hollow creaking sound when striking.
n Horizontal cracks running across the entire ice wall appear at its base, disconnecting from the foundation, or long horizontal cracks form in the middle section of the ice wall.
n The ice wall emits sharp sounds. Typically, ice walls are quiet; when they start sounding restless, it means they’re either forming or about to collapse. If it’s during warm spring weather, it’s usually not a good sign — retreat immediately.
The collapse of an ice wall is an inevitable occurrence. Every year around March to April, the ice walls near the Tian Ti ladder in Taoyuan Xiangu Valley and the Mi Xian Waterfall at Si He Tang are usually the first to collapse, creating a spectacular scene. Fortunately, no serious accidents have occurred. Five years ago, the Tsinghua Mountaineering Team was training at the Mi Xian Waterfall at Si He Tang. Before setting up ropes in the morning, the ice wall made a loud noise and eventually collapsed. Fortunately, the team members had not yet reached below the ice wall; otherwise, the consequences would have been unimaginable. Therefore, those climbing in spring must pay close attention to this issue, and when in doubt, it's better to err on the side of caution.
2. Falling Ice
Falling ice is one of the most common and dangerous situations in ice climbing. Sunlight, the breaking of icicles, and human activity during climbing can all cause ice to fall. Even a small piece of falling ice can cause serious injury, such as facial lacerations or finger fractures.
Preventive measures:
n The first thing to do upon arriving at an ice climbing site is to properly wear a helmet. The key point of wearing a helmet is to protect the forehead. When ice falls, looking up is not a smart move — let your helmet do the protecting.
n Stay away from falling ice routes. Whether you're the belayer or just hanging out at the site, keep a safe distance from areas prone to natural or human-caused ice falls. During multi-pitch climbs, calculate the placement of belay stations to prevent ice falling from higher pitches from hitting a belayer who has nowhere to take cover — your guardian angel.
While climbing, if you dislodge large chunks of ice, shout “ICE!” or “Ice!” loudly as a warning.
n Avoid climbing directly beneath other climbers. No matter how eager you are to climb, try to avoid setting up crowded routes that leave insufficient safety distance between climbers.
3. Fragile Anchors
Anchors in ice climbing generally consist of ice screws and v-thread ice holes. Anchors set in low-temperature, non-cavitated, and well-plasticized ice are typically very strong. However, because ice screws are made of metal, which has much lower heat capacity than ice, over time — especially when exposed to direct sunlight — the ice around the screw can melt easily, significantly reducing its strength. Moreover, for soft ice walls in high temperatures or air-filled ice formed on icicles, the reliability of ice screws is questionable.
Solutions:
n If the weather is too hot, the strength of ice screws will be greatly reduced — in that case, it’s better to back off.
n For top-rope belay station anchors, try to use three anchors to form the station. Cover the ice screws with snow to shield them from the sun, and check their condition regularly. Since v-thread ice holes maintain consistent strength over time, it’s recommended to include at least one v-thread in the belay anchor setup.
n Use longer ice screws whenever possible and remove as much soft or damaged ice as you can on the surface to increase the screw’s holding power. If you hit air pockets while placing the screw, relocate and place it in a different area.
n Ice screw angle matters: Tests show that screws placed with their tips angled 10 degrees upward offer the highest strength, but their strength decreases rapidly over time as temperatures rise. Screws placed vertically or with their tips angled 10 degrees downward have relatively lower initial strength but experience less change over time. Therefore, for lead climbing where usage time is short but forces are high, opt for screws angled 10 degrees upward; for top-rope belay stations where the setup remains in place longer, choose screws placed vertically or with tips angled 10 degrees downward.
n For thin ice, use appropriately sized ice screws. If the screw is too long and the carabiner loop extends less than 5 cm above the ice surface, simply clip the carabiner directly to the loop; if the loop extends more than 5 cm above the ice, use a sling to wrap around the screw and attach the carabiner to that.
n During lead climbing, if you fall, the first and second ice screws and the weakest ones on the route (short screws, thin ice, air ice) are most prone to failure. Consider using slings as shock absorbers on these screws to reduce the impact force on them.
n Since the rope used for making v-threads has high thermal mass, the strength of a v-thread can even increase over time. When using it, pay attention to the depth and width of the placement, and leave sufficient tail on the knot. When descending on a v-thread, never allow the rope to move relative to the thread, which could burn through it.
II. Sharp Gear
Sharp ice axes, crampons, and ice screws can greatly improve your ice climbing efficiency, but if misused, these sharp tools can become dangerous weapons, posing risks to yourself and others.
1. Carrying Sharp Gear
Carrying sharp gear is a crucial issue—it can range from damaging your backpack or clothes to causing injury.
Some tips:
n Wrap the sharp parts of your ice climbing gear—for example, use a tube to cover the pick of your ice axe, a dedicated crampon bag for your crampons, or an ice screw case for your screws. You don’t need to buy expensive packaging; you can make these items yourself, and they work very well.
n Ice axes and crampons are usually attached to the outside of your backpack. When taking public transport like buses or subways, take the bag off rather than wearing it to avoid accidentally hitting others when turning around. This is a very strict rule on the cable cars in Chamonix. Also, when picking up your pack, always check if anyone is nearby and move gently to prevent the gear from swinging out and hurting someone.
2. Axe Placement Technique
Injuries caused by ice axe placement are also quite common. I’ve been hit in the lip by falling ice due to an axe swing, and I’ve also smacked myself in the face with an ice axe when pulling it out too hard (a tragic moment—hitting yourself?).
Some tips:
n When placing the axe, avoid positioning the pick directly above your face. When the ice falls, lower your head to dodge.
n Sharpen both the upper and lower edges of the ice axe pick to make it easier to remove, so you don’t injure yourself by pulling too hard.
n Consider putting a cut tennis ball over the adze of the ice axe—getting hit in the face with the adze is no joke.
n If you want extra protection, consider getting a helmet with a face guard or simply using a football helmet.
3. Falling
When ice climbing, because both the ice axe and crampons are very sharp, falling can easily lead to self-injury. Additionally, crampons hitting the ice wall can cause your body to flip, leading to sprains or fractures in your legs or feet. Coupled with the questionable strength of many ice screws, the consequences of a fall can be dire.
Some tips:
n Choose routes that match your skill level, focus on maintaining stability with every move, and absolutely avoid falling.
n Don’t place ice screws in icicles. If you fall, you might pull the icicle off, and a huge chunk of ice could end up dangling from your harness—a terrifying outcome.
III. Other Considerations
1. Incorrect Techniques
Aside from the situations mentioned above, as with all technical climbing, incorrect techniques can have fatal consequences.
n While walking, if your crampons catch on your pants or gaiters and cause you to fall, the severity depends on the height of the slope you’re on. So, while walking, keep your feet appropriately apart, ensure clean footwork, and prevent your crampons from clashing.
n When climbing at the top of a steep slope (like the far left side of Taoyuan Xiangu), the belayer must secure themselves with an ice screw. If the climber falls before placing the first screw, the consequences can be severe.
n Any incorrect techniques present in rock climbing—such as poor belaying, descending, or rope handling—will have even worse outcomes in ice climbing.
2. Frostbite/Hypothermia
Cold is a challenge every ice climber must endure. Fatigue or wetness can often lead to hypothermia or frostbite, especially on long routes where staying warm is crucial.
n During the climb, carry a compact down jacket with good insulation—it will provide a warm refuge when you’re belaying.
n Pack an extra pair of gloves in your backpack. Once the pair you're using gets wet, you'll have another dry pair to protect your hands.
n Make generous estimates for climbing time, carry enough energy food, clothing, and other essentials, and try to climb as quickly as possible—because daylight can fade unexpectedly, and weather changes don’t ask for our permission.
Climbing ice presents a beautiful yet harsh environment. The stability and strength of ice walls are not easy to determine, and ice climbing gear is extremely sharp. All of these factors demand that we fully understand the risks of ice climbing and make adequate preparations. We hope the above summary offers some useful insights for your ice climbing adventures. Of course, many questions require climbers to think actively, draw their own conclusions, and gain hands-on experience. When we’re ready, let’s set off and enjoy this pristine and magical world of ice climbing.