The waterproof performance of jackets weakens after washing, and the sun protection of low-quality sun-protective clothing is even worse than that of pure cotton long sleeves.
“Backpackers,” “couch surfers,” “reliving youth on the road,” “a trip decided on a whim”... More and more white-collar workers and office employees are getting into outdoor sports, which has fueled the popularity of functional outdoor clothing as a highlight in the apparel market. These functional garments, ranging from as little as two to three hundred yuan to as much as twenty to thirty thousand yuan, are marketed with features such as exceptional waterproofing or sun and wind protection. Because they come with these “functions,” they are usually essential gear for outdoor enthusiasts. However, these items are not as robust as they seem.
Waterproof jackets become less water-resistant the more you wash them
Recently, the Shanghai Consumer Council released the "2014 Jacket Comparative Test Report," which found that nearly all samples experienced varying degrees of decline in waterproof performance after washing, and none of the manufacturers provided clear washing instructions regarding this on the care labels.
Among the 40 samples tested for waterproofing, priced between 499 yuan and 3,698 yuan, after 10 washes, 16 samples showed good or acceptable resistance to wetting, 14 showed poor or very poor resistance, and 10 showed no resistance at all. Only 40% of the samples maintained water resistance, and mainstream outdoor brands like Columbia, Toread, and Nike all exhibited varying degrees of waterproof performance decline after 5–10 washes.
Officials from the consumer council explained that the waterproofing of most jackets on the market comes from coatings on the fabric surface. As washing frequency increases, these coatings may gradually wear off or degrade, reducing their waterproof effectiveness. Companies should provide clear labeling or explanations on product tags to ensure consumer awareness and choice.
A reporter visited local outdoor clothing stores in Guangzhou and found that while waterproof jackets were labeled with care instructions such as “wash separately,” “do not iron,” and “do not use fabric softener,” there were no explicit warnings about how washing methods might reduce waterproof performance. Sales staff also did not inform the reporter that washing jackets could weaken their waterproof capabilities. Similar situations were found at stores selling outdoor brands like Life is Good, Nike, and Adidas.
Sun-protective clothing isn’t all that magical
It’s not just outdoor jackets that lose functionality after washing—other functional clothing like sun-protective wear isn’t as miraculous either. This summer, thin, transparent garments resembling raincoats, dubbed “sun-protective clothing,” have become essential for many women going out. Their prices vary widely, ranging from 50 yuan at street stalls to four or five hundred yuan in specialty stores. Industry insiders advise buyers to check for UPF ratings or third-party test reports when purchasing sun-protective clothing and to ensure that they meet the standard of UPF > 40 and UVA transmittance < 5%.If you can’t find these, the sun-protective clothing might just be a gimmick.
China's "Evaluation of the Ultraviolet Protection Performance of Textiles," implemented since 2010, stipulates that labels on UV-protective products must include three basic elements: numerical values, national standard codes, and protective indications. The UV protection factor (UPF) of such products must be >40, and the ultraviolet A (UVA) transmission rate must be less than 5%.
The reporter found that some well-known outdoor brands in Guangzhou’s market do not display UV protection index labels. Store clerks explained that their sun-protective jackets incorporate UV-blocking agents and UV-resistant fabrics into the material, enhancing the reflection and scattering of UV rays on the garment surface to provide protection. An industry expert noted that UV protection testing for sun-protective clothing is not mandatory but voluntary. While garments without a UPF rating are non-compliant, brands can bypass this requirement by not labeling their products as “sun-protective clothing.”
So, do sun-protective clothes really work? A dermatologist stated that professional sun-protective clothing offers UV and radiation protection, but such items are relatively expensive, so ordinary people don’t need to follow the trend. Low-cost sun-protective clothing on the market is often made of nylon or polyester, which have poor breathability. Prolonged contact with polyester fibers can lead to irritant contact dermatitis. For sun protection, pure cotton long sleeves are actually more effective.
Overall gross margin approaches 50%
Despite various “functionality” issues with functional clothing, the prices are steep. A search for “jackets” on an e-commerce platform yielded 172,400 results, with the highest retail price for a jacket reaching 30,000 yuan. If you’re preparing a full “spontaneous travel” outfit, the cost might make you think twice about being too “carefree.”
According to the reporter’s estimates, equipping oneself with a basic set of outdoor gear at a regular non-branded outdoor store typically costs around 2,000 yuan. At a well-known outdoor specialty store, when the reporter consulted a salesperson about the cost of gear for two people traveling to Tibet, the salesperson listed items such as jackets, fleece layers, hiking boots, backpacks, and hats. Even with discounts, the total came to around 10,000 yuan for both people.
These high prices have also driven up the profits of outdoor clothing companies. Among the companies that recently submitted IPO prospectuses, Sanfo Outdoor was one of them. Reviewing annual reports of listed apparel companies revealed that between 2011 and 2013, the overall gross margins of the outdoor brand Columbia were 42.44%, 41.57%, and 43.06%, respectively, while those of Toread were 47.53%, 50.94%, and 50.02%. Over the past three years, the revenues of these companies have seen varying degrees of growth. Last year, the overall gross margin of outdoor clothing brands approached 50%.
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How sun-protective clothing works
There are two principles behind professional sun-protective clothing: one is thickened fabric, which blocks UV rays by increasing fabric density; the other is adding UV-blocking coatings. Industry insiders say that cheap “sun-protective clothing” sold in the market is typically made of synthetic fibers, with loose weaves and no special UV-blocking coatings. Although they may block visible light, they do not effectively prevent UV rays—in fact, they only offer the same protection as ordinary long-sleeved shirts. Sun-protective clothing with decorative lace or cut-out patterns offers even less UV protection.