Searching for the Mythical Bird of Matsu

Text by Li Xinyi, compiled and reported | Source: MOOK Editorial Department | Photos provided by Longfu Travel Agency, Matsu National Scenic Area Administration, Baoshun Leisure

Taiwan’s various outlying islands are treasure troves of unique charm. Visiting the uninhabited islands of Matsu to watch seagulls is a precious travel experience that’s right on Taiwan’s doorstep. Known as the “mythical bird,” the Chinese crested tern disappeared for over a hundred years and was once thought to have vanished from the world. In 2000, a photographer spotted the bird on the uninhabited islands of Matsu—Zhong Island and Tiejian—and when news broke, birdwatchers from all over flocked to Matsu to catch a glimpse. To this day, the Chinese crested tern still returns to Matsu every summer without fail.

Every year from around June to August is peak season for watching terns in Matsu. The exact uninhabited island where the Chinese crested tern gathers can vary each year. Wang Shuqin, chairman of Longfu Travel Agency, said that this year the mythical birds have chosen Tiejian Island, located in front of Gaodeng Island, as their gathering spot. The peak season begins in August and lasts until the end of September. When watching the terns, remember to bring binoculars, and if you want to capture clear images of the birds, it’s recommended to use a telephoto lens with a focal length of at least 400mm.

During the tern-watching season, Matsu offers special boats for individual travelers. This year’s trips run from July 1 to August 31, departing every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday from 8:30 to 9:00 AM. Tickets can be purchased at Fugang Harbor in Nangan, with each ticket priced at NT$280. Binoculars can also be rented on-site for NT$50. The route departs from Fugang Harbor in Nangan, passes through Baisha Harbor in Beigan, offers sea views of Da Wu Island, then heads to the tern habitats of Zhong Island and Tiejian for birdwatching, before returning to Fugang Harbor in Nangan. Zhong Island and Tiejian are both protected areas, and landing on them is prohibited.