Savor the Flavors of Macau: A Glimpse into Local Life (Part 2)

The Tan Family Cuisine That “Steals” Sugar

Liu Guozhu, executive chef of Chinese cuisine who has helmed kitchens at Beijing Hotel and Beijing Grand Hotel for over 40 years, arrived at Wynn Macau with seven disciples to lead Jing Hua Xuan, a restaurant specializing in Tan Family cuisine. Jing Hua Xuan’s Tan Family cuisine blends the strengths of Cantonese, Shandong, and Sichuan cooking. Originally an official’s private dish, it was created by Tan Zongjun, a Qing Dynasty scholar-official. When he served in Beijing, he specialized in Shandong cuisine, and later during his exile in Sichuan, he incorporated the essence of Sichuan cuisine into his cooking. Tan Family cuisine emphasizes premium ingredients and labor-intensive cooking methods. In the past, unless you were entertaining high-ranking officials or nobles, you wouldn’t find Tan Family cuisine anywhere. Chef Liu said that it wasn’t until 1958, when Beijing Hotel added Tan Family cuisine to its menu—later becoming state banquet cuisine served to many presidents—that the general public finally got a chance to taste it.

Another key factor is using oil to rehydrate the fish maw. Fish maw, also known as fish bladder or commonly called fish collagen, is prepared by Chef Liu using a special technique. He explained that for a one-jin block consisting of four pieces (each weighing 16 taels), it takes about 35 minutes to rehydrate. First, the fish maw is soaked in warm oil to soften it, then transferred to hot oil where it immediately “puffs up.” “This method of rehydration makes the fish maw soft and full of air pockets, so when cooked, plenty of broth can seep inside.” However, controlling the heat is tricky, as too high a temperature can easily cause the surface to char.

Once the fish maw is fully rehydrated, it is blanched in boiling water with scallions, ginger, and Shaoxing wine to remove any fishy smell and the oiliness from the rehydration process. Then it is simmered in a light broth with scallions, ginger, and Shaoxing wine to further eliminate the odor. The broth is discarded, and the fish maw is squeezed dry—it now emits a fragrant aroma, “with the taste of chicken stock inside.” The final step is simmering the fish maw gently in the milk broth until it becomes soft, tender, fragrant, and melt-in-your-mouth.

【INFO】

Address: Wynn Macau, Estrada Sir Andrée Ricou, Outer Harbour Reclamation Area, Macau

The Quirky Dishes of “Fat Guy Xia”

In the evening, we visited a local hotpot spot packed with residents, “Sun Yee Food.” Even before sitting down, we were amused by the menu on the wall. For instance, one item read, “Order your chicken with confidence, we cook it with heart”—a promotion for their scallion oil chicken, garlic chicken, and pepper chicken. Others had completely mystifying names like “A Lifetime of Daughter Debt, Half a Lifetime of Wife Servitude,” “Wow, Hero Pot,” or “Loving You More Each Day.”

Here, every hotpot pot is loaded with generous portions. Take for example the “Bone Pot Tribe,” made with pork cartilage and pig trotter bones—the broth is naturally rich and thick, with an appealing soy-milk-like white color. Scoop down, and you’ll find cloud ear fungus, tofu skin, corn… all temptingly steaming. Even the marrow from the large bones can be sucked out.

Beyond dishes ready to eat upon serving, there’s a pot featuring shrimp marinated in Shaoxing wine. With their long blue legs and crystal-clear bodies, the busy staff instructed us to let the shrimp sit in the pot for a while, promising they’d return to open it shortly. Soon after, they brought out an iron pot lined with red-hot stones, pouring in the shrimp, coarse salt, and Shaoxing wine, which released a burst of steam. After covering for about ten minutes and lifting the lid, the perfectly cooked red shrimp had firm, tender meat—you might even accidentally bite into some coarse salt. It needed no other seasoning to be delicious.

 

【INFO】

Address: Opposite Saint Paul’s School on Rua de São Paulo, Black Horse Circuit, Macau

From morning till night, life in Macau is inseparable from food. As long as you know how to appreciate local delicacies, you’ll find hidden gems on every street and alley—no Michelin stars needed, just the approval of locals. Next time you visit Macau, take a classic street food tour—you’re guaranteed to see this little island in a whole new light.