Exploring the Past and Present of Kyoto’s Sento Bathhouses
Last updated 2026-09-27 — Public bathhouses are a unique aspect of Japanese popular culture, and Kyoto’s bathing culture dates back even earlier to the Heian period. Bathhouses in Kyoto are called “sento,” but as times have progressed and modern homes are increasingly equipped with private bathrooms, the “bathing culture” has gradually declined. However, compared to fast-paced metropolises like Tokyo, in the more leisurely-paced ancient capital of Kyoto, there are still plenty of opportunities to experience sento and, through this simple daily ritual, glimpse the unembellished life of the common people.
Text by TRAVELER Luxe
In Kyoto, there are also many cafes and restaurants that have been converted from old bathhouses, offering a chance to catch a glimpse of the charm of bygone sento, including a blend of Japanese and foreign cultures. Part the noren curtain, and whether you’re soaking in a bath or enjoying a plate of pasta, immerse yourself in the warmth of the ancient capital and discover a deeper Kyoto experience.
Kyoto is also home to many cafes and restaurants converted from old bathhouses, where you can still catch a glimpse of the charm of former sento, including a blend of Japanese and foreign cultures. By parting the noren curtain, whether through a soak in the baths or a taste of Italian pasta, you can bask in the warmth of the ancient capital and uncover a deeper Kyoto experience.
The old bathhouses not only washed away the fatigue of the day but also soaked up Kyoto’s sento history, culture, and memories. (Image provided by TRAVELER Luxe)
Funayama Onsen – Immerse Yourself in the Steam of a Bygone Aristocratic Sento
If your first stop on a Kyoto sento tour is “Funayama Onsen,” you might find it hard to believe the “sento is dying” implication hinted at in the film “Departures.” The queue before opening hours, the familiar exchanges between patrons and staff as they pull out their monthly passes, or the sight of Western travelers with backpacks tentatively entering the changing area all attest to Funayama Onsen’s fame. Though the nobility who once frequented such places are long gone, the joy of “bathing”—an activity that transcends class—still holds a certain popularity in the alleyways of Kyoto.
Even before opening time, a line of bathers had already formed at the entrance. (Image provided by TRAVELER Luxe)
Built in the Taisho era (1923), Funayama Onsen was once a high-end bathhouse. From the outdoor garden landscaping to the ornate carvings on the building, it’s not hard to imagine its former glory. In the changing area, the wooden beams overhead feature carvings of beloved Japanese flora (such as pine, cherry, and plum), as well as depictions of World War II land, sea, and air battles. Compared to Kyoto’s actual history of being largely unscathed by the war, this serene, almost detached atmosphere of prosperity quietly reflects the luxurious lifestyle of the wealthy.
What was once a hot spring inn, Funayama still retains its elegant landscaping. (Image provided by TRAVELER Luxe)
Getting to the main point—“bathing”—Funayama Onsen offers both indoor and outdoor baths. The outdoor rotenburo is a cypress tub, while indoors you’ll find electric baths, medicinal baths, and a sauna. Though the space isn’t very large, it’s perfect for those looking to unwind. With no time limits imposed, you can take your time and enjoy a variety of baths, experiencing a truly relaxing and rejuvenating sento experience.
[Info]
Funayama Onsen
Address: 82-1 Minamifunaoka-cho, Fushimi-ku, Kyoto, Japan
Phone: +81-(0)75-441-3735
Phone: +81-(0)75-441-3735
Yanagi-yu – The Mysterious Bathhouse in the Community
The mystery of “Yanagi-yu” lies in the fact that it’s not a famous bathhouse, yet it has quietly existed in the community for eighty years. Operated by the Nakatani family, it has been passed down through four generations. The current owner, Mr. Riki Nakatani, is outgoing and cheerful. Not only did he readily agree to our interview request, but the genuine bond he has formed with patrons over the years may also be the reason why Yanagi-yu continues to receive support despite the general decline of community bathhouses.
My first visit to Yanagi-yu was actually a bit embarrassing, as it has no front yard or entrance hall. As soon as you part the noren curtain at the entrance, you’re in the changing area where patrons get undressed. Of course, the entrance clearly indicates the separate male and female sections, but for someone not accustomed to bathhouse culture, it was still somewhat shocking to suddenly see strangers calmly undressing in front of you. Given how “direct” Yanagi-yu is as a bathhouse, we arranged to visit during another time when it wasn’t open to the public, hoping to unveil the mysteries of this old bathhouse.
Mosaic tiles that have been around for 46 years. (Image provided by TRAVELER Luxe)
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