Eating cold food for Japanese New Year’s feast? There's actually a lot of meaning behind it

Shrimp symbolizes longevity and is an indispensable star dish in Japanese New Year’s cuisine. (Photo / Shin Wang Hotel)

The Chestnut Rice with King Oyster Mushrooms features chewy, high-quality Koshihikari rice layered with chestnuts, ginkgo nuts, and king oyster mushrooms, then slow-cooked in a savory bonito broth for a rich, authentic Japanese flavor. (Photo / Shin Wang Hotel)

Black beans represent diligence and are both sweet and delicious. (Photo / Shin Wang Hotel)

Celebrating the New Year in Japan follows certain traditional customs. The Japanese New Year’s Eve is called Ōmisoka (おおみそか). According to old traditions, Japanese families would gather together to watch NHK’s singing competition show “Kōhaku Uta Gassen” (こうはくうたがっせん).

Anyone who has watched Japanese dramas or anime will know that besides celebrating New Year on January 1st instead of during Lunar New Year like in Taiwan, Japan also has a very different set of traditional New Year dishes from what we usually imagine as a lavish spread of delicacies. In terms of timing, Taiwanese people typically enjoy their New Year’s feast on New Year’s Eve, whereas the Japanese start eating what they call “Osechi Ryōri (おせちりょうり)” on January 1st.

During the New Year period, most Japanese households do not cook at home because the Toshigami (New Year deity) is believed to be present, and making noise in the kitchen is considered inappropriate. As a result, Osechi Ryōri consists of pre-prepared cold dishes made by housewives before the New Year. These dishes are usually served in multi-tiered lacquered boxes called “Jūbako (じゅうばこ),” traditionally in four tiers representing the four seasons—though some more particular families may use five tiers.

These varied dishes, beautifully arranged in exquisite lacquered wooden boxes, look delightful and appetizing, but are all served cold. The reason Japanese New Year dishes are all cold goes beyond the aforementioned taboo against cooking during the New Year—making hot meals unavailable. It’s also because the items prepared in Osechi Ryōri carry auspicious meanings, many of which are not suitable for hot preparation. Additionally, these dishes are meant to last several days, and reheating them repeatedly is unhygienic. Moreover, since the weather is often cold during the holidays, cold food helps ensure it stays fresh longer.

So, what exactly is in Japanese New Year cuisine? In recent years, traditional Osechi has faced challenges, and with the rise of pre-ordered Osechi meals, there are now more variations. But some essential ingredients remain non-negotiable. Red and white kamaboko (fish cake) symbolize the expulsion of evil (red) and purification (white); boiled sweet shrimp, resembling elderly people, signify longevity; fish roe such as mentaiko (spicy cod roe), salmon roe, and herring roe represent fertility; small dried fish suggest an abundant harvest; golden sweetened chestnut paste symbolizes good fortune and prosperity; boiled black beans stand for diligence; konbu (kelp) rolls imply joy; and datemaki—a sweet rolled omelet made with fish paste and egg—is favored for its festive appearance, symbolizing elegance and celebration.

Nowadays, quite a few businesses in Taiwan have also started offering Japanese-style New Year dishes. Although they are all served cold, their abundance is no less impressive than that of traditional Taiwanese New Year feasts. Moreover, since most dishes are boiled, they are actually healthier and lighter. For instance, Shining Plaza Hotel’s Cheng Jiang Japanese Cuisine has launched a limited edition of just 15 servings of Japanese New Year cuisine. In addition to the traditional three-tiered Jūbako Osechi bento, it also includes a fresh clam and yuzu layer pot and matsutake mushroom chestnut donburi, catering to Taiwanese people's love for hot soup—an especially thoughtful touch.