Want to be a true local of Qishan? Better have a pile of bananas in the back of your car.

Text and photos by Ji Zihong, excerpted from *I Love Kaohsiung, and Also Snacks, Strolls, and Killing Time*, published by Flying Bird Season Society.

Qishan was a very unfamiliar place to me. My earliest memory is of a friend who studied at a school there—I only knew he was studying in Qishan, but I’ve even forgotten which school it was. Then there was my brother doing his military service in Alian District. A few times, my dad drove me to take him back to his barracks, and while driving along National Freeway No. 2, we’d pass a sign that read “Qishan.” At that time, I didn’t even know that Qishan was famous for its bananas. The difference between then and now—when I enthusiastically recommend Qishan to everyone, insisting they simply must go—is as stark as comparing a banana to a guava. It’s completely different.

The first time I went to Qishan was for an interview. Since I didn’t have a car or a motorcycle, I had to look online to see if there were any buses that could get me there. I wasn’t too confident about the convenience of buses to begin with—I just hoped I could at least make it to Qishan, and then figure out how to get to the various interview locations later. I found that Kaohsiung Bus operates a “Qimei National Highway Express” route that goes directly to both Qishan and Meinong. The fare is just NT$50, and it takes about 40 to 50 minutes to get directly to the Qishan Bus Station. For me, a first-time visitor to Qishan, this instantly made me feel much more at ease. I’m sure it’s the same for other travelers too—any tourist spot is already more than halfway to success if it has convenient transportation options. Thanks to this “Qimei National Highway Express” route, I developed a preliminary fondness for Qishan. Without the anxiety of figuring out where to transfer or get off, I happily set off to explore Qishan.

It takes about fifteen minutes to walk from the bus station to Qishan’s Old Railway Station, which also marks the beginning of the old street. Along the way, you’ll see shops lining the streets, creating a fairly lively atmosphere. At first glance, it feels like a small town with complete daily amenities. When you arrive at Qishan’s Old Railway Station, the charming Victorian-style architecture immediately wins you over. It’s like a beautiful girl in a sky-blue dress, greeting you with the grace of a ballet dancer’s curtsy. Here, you can rent a bicycle, though walking is also an option. But cycling through the old street gives you a stronger sense of being a “local,” so I rented one and started pretending to be a native of Qishan. Of course, an even more successful disguise was having a basket of raw green bananas in the back of my bike, as if I were on my way to set up a market stall. But there are already so many banana vendors on the old street that the world doesn’t need one more—I’d just be adding to the collection. Each vendor’s stand is like an open encyclopedia of bananas. There are Lady Finger bananas, Plantains, local varieties, Pisang Raja, Honey bananas, and Luzon bananas. I never realized how diverse the world of bananas is. I couldn’t help but think, “Today, I’m basically here to make some banana friends!”

Qishan Old Street is a compact little tourist town. Almost all the local specialties, snacks, attractions, and historic sites are located on or near the old street. You can cover most of it on foot or with a bicycle, except for the bakery that was a filming location for the movie *Love Bread Soul*, which is a bit farther away. The Li family’s Angelica Duck with Rice Noodles is delicious—one bowl of noodles even comes with a side of duck blood. At Zhizhi Ice City, you could easily eat two banana popsicles and then follow it up with a banana split. At Chaolin Juice Shop, they’ve been selling starfruit almond milk for sixty years—if your stomach is full, you’ll still want to drink a cup before you leave. Once your food adventure is done, head to Qishan Elementary School to take pictures with the old trees. If you’re too tired, just take a nap under the tree—sleep first, then decide what’s next. After you’ve regained your energy, hop on your bike and ride to the Old Waterway Bike Path. It’s full of water and trees, giving off a cool and refreshing vibe. If you’re in the mood for something educational, visit the Qishan Living Culture Park. There’s an old bicycle once used to transport bananas for sale, and a coffee shop converted from an old elementary school classroom. Pondering the relationship between coffee and bananas is the perfect way to while away your time in Qishan.

So far, I’ve only been to Qishan Old Street twice, but for some reason, I always find myself wanting to go back whenever I have free time. Last time, I bought a banana doll from the old street—it’s about 30 centimeters tall and wide, made of bright yellow plush, and super cuddly. When a big guy like me holds the banana doll, he instantly turns into a warm and friendly boy. If a little woman holds it, she looks all sweet and adorable, like she’s already made the finals of the Qishan Banana Queen pageant. There’s also a local band called “Taiwan Youth Banana Band,” made up of five young locals who are passionate about promoting Qishan bananas through music. I actually met them at the Big Rainbow Music Festival, and I can’t help but admire their creativity and dedication in marketing their hometown. Judging by these fun, banana-themed cultural creations, Qishan is truly a lovable little town with character. For this new friend of mine—who’s somewhat familiar yet still a bit of a mystery—I’m totally “bananas” for it.