Diving 10 Meters Underwater to Harvest Sea Snails: "Haenyeo" of Feiyang Island Free-Dive for 3 Minutes

▲ It takes about 10–15 minutes by boat to reach Feiyang Island from Jeju Island, with two round-trip ferry services on regular days.

Reported and photographed by Xiao Wanning / Jeju Island

Located in the northwest of Jeju Island, the offshore island of Feiyang Island,can only be reached by a 10–15 minute boat ride from Hanrim Port,as the island was primarily formed by volcanic eruptions, so basalt rocks are scattered all over. Due to its coastal location, residents make a living from the sea. Local guide Ms. Fu said,the population here is less than 200, and professional haenyeo account for over 60% of the island’s inhabitants.

▲ Most passengers taking the boat to Feiyang Island are local residents (left). Along the roadsides of Feiyang Island, you can see piles of stones of various sizes used for warding off evil spirits (right).

Walking along the coast of Feiyang Island, you’ll notice piles of stones of different sizes by the roadside. According to locals,these are part of the island’s traditional shamanistic beliefs—stacking basalt high is believed to ward off evil and block misfortune.The Korean name for Feiyang Island means “the flying island.” There’s also a legend that, according to the guide, hundreds of years ago, a woman in Jeju Island saw an island flying across the sky and urgently shouted at it not to land there. As a result, the island became an offshore island of Jeju, which is the origin of today’s Feiyang Island.

A must-do here is to climb the island’s only high mountain, Feiyang Peak,which is about 114.7 meters above sea level and a roughly 500-meter walk,offering a view of the landscape below and the coastline of Jeju Island from the top. The center of Feiyang Peak is actually a volcanic crater, but the volcano is now extinct, no longer active and covered in vegetation. Locals even graze sheep on the peak.

Nearly all the female residents are haenyeo, who mainly make a living by harvesting seaweed and sea snails.

The average age of haenyeo in Jeju Island is 60, but due to the small population of Feiyang Island and the fact that most residents are haenyeo, leading to an older overall demographic, on Feiyang Islandyou won’t see any cars at all—the main means of transportation is bicycles.Moreover, along the coastal paths, you’ll find steps everywhere for haenyeo to access the water. During our interview, we came across a couple of haenyeo who had just come ashore, still wearing wetsuits, pulling carts toward us. On the carts were freshly harvested sea tangle and sea snails. Meanwhile, as South Korea has strict regulations on commercial diving to protect marine ecosystems, using any modern diving equipment is illegal. As a result, to become a haenyeo, one must train in free-diving from a young age. According to locals,haenyeo can hold their breath underwater for more than 3 minutes without oxygen tanks and dive to depths of over 10 meters..

▲ Haenyeo roll harvested seaweed into balls and place them by the roadside.

Local guide Ms. Fu said that men also once tried to make a living as “haenyeo,” but because women generally have greater lung capacity than men, male divers gradually disappeared, leaving only female haenyeo. However,due to the demanding and strenuous work, coupled with relatively low wages,this profession may face a shortage of successors once the current generation of haenyeo, mostly around 60 years old, retires.This profession is facing a crisis of having no successors..

▲ Small sea snail congee is a must-try dish on the island.

Don’t forget that there’s a restaurant by the pier serving freshly made small sea snail congee. After disembarking, go there first to reserve a meal. After exploring the island, it’s a great way to recharge,as the congee is made with sea snails and kelp harvested by the haenyeo. The briny ocean flavor is very distinct, balanced with sesame oil to eliminate fishiness—its sweet and savory taste is truly unforgettable.Since the food is made to order, you must make a reservation in advance. Otherwise, if you show up without one, the restaurant may not have prepared enough portions, and you might miss out..

▲ Don’t forget to say hello to this friendly island dog when you get off the boat. He knows the ferry schedule and stands guard at the harbor, greeting every visitor who arrives on the island.

【Ferry Schedule】
Departures from Hanlim Port: 9:00, 12:00, 15:00
Departures from Feiyang Island: 9:15, 12:15, 15:15
The ferry ride takes approximately 15 minutes.

【Seaside Snack Shops】
Small conch porridge: 15,000 KRW (approx. TWD 437)