
Photos and text byXiao Hu’s Dream Food Blog
I’ve always been quite interested in this kind of military dependents’ village cuisine. In Taipei, there were two places I really wanted to try—one was “Luguang New Village,” and the other is “Cunzikou,” which our little foodie group visited today.

Many say this place is hard to find, but for someone like me who’s used to Google Maps, it was actually quite easy to locate after exiting the MRT station and following the address. The only issue was that there was no signboard outside, which made it a bit confusing. But luckily, the place is usually packed, and it’s the only wooden house around here—so it shouldn’t be too hard to spot.

I think many people might be as puzzled as I was about what exactly military dependents’ village cuisine tastes like, especially compared to the younger generation nowadays. As I understand it, it includes noodles, soups, braised dishes (which are the highlight), and some home-style fare. It’s not about refined gourmet dishes, but you can definitely taste the deep affection in them. Moreover, the strong sense of community in these villages is also one of their defining features. For instance, the warm smiles of the veterans and elders always give you a feeling of being home, both visually and in terms of taste.

Sometimes coming to a place like this is bittersweet—you absolutely have to try the military dependents’ village specialty noodles. The worst part is the overwhelming selection of braised dishes—you want to try this, then that, and then maybe two plates of delicious side dishes, or even each restaurant’s unique home-style dishes.

So it’s really great when you have a group of equally food-loving friends. This time, our foodie group had over ten members, and we left the ordering to Ben, a long-time member who comes back to Taiwan to eat for a few months every year. He seemed pretty familiar with the owner of Cunzikou, and before we knew it, we’d ordered more than the table could hold… In the end, we couldn’t finish it all and even packed some to take home for our families. XD

Before eating, let’s take a look at Cunzikou’s rather unique decor. Though it’s called decor, it’s really not much different from a regular snack shop—there are blue-and-white slogans from when the Nationalist government first came to Taiwan, like “Fight communism, resist Russia, everyone must report spies,” and various hats worn by

First, let’s take a look at this ridiculously huge “lion’s head” meatball—I think this might be the biggest one I’ve ever had. But to be honest, I found the texture of this lion’s head a bit too soft. The meat is sweet and quite good, but if it had soaked in the broth a little longer and absorbed more of the juices, that tender richness would have been even better. However, what I loved most was actually the relatively light and refreshing broth—it stayed delicious even after cooking for a long time, though naturally the flavors of the meat and vegetables became stronger over time.

Next up were the various braised delicacies that the shop pretty much had all on offer. Xiaohu only took a small bite of each and was almost too full to eat any more... This plate of lotus root came in two colors—the normal-colored pieces were softer and crisper, tasting just as you’d expect. The darker ones had a stronger flavor, were a bit harder, but had a more chewy, sticky texture. As for the radish, the outside was lightly salted and fragrant, and when you bit into it, there was a bit of texture along with some really good juices, though the sweetness had a faint hint of earthy radish flavor.

The long strips of dried tofu had a really nice texture and taste—soft and tender, full of bean flavor without being overly strong or overpowering the braised seasonings. My favorite, the tofu skin, was a bit soft and moist, perhaps having absorbed too much broth. After chewing, the juiciness also contributed to its slightly salty profile.

This plate of meats and offal was my favorite out of the three. First, the thick and heavy pork liver reminded me of childhood taste memories—the rich, full flavor of liver. Maybe those who are sensitive to offal flavors might not enjoy it, but for those who love it, the experience after chewing is moving. Though the texture is a bit drier compared to the softer liver, the kelp and sausage had a good texture, though their flavor didn’t seem quite strong enough.

The pork tongue in the middle was the one that won me over the most—crisp when you bite into it with a savory soy aroma, and tender and soft when you chew, with a sweet meatiness that made it impossible to stop eating.

The intestines here were also well-braised, with good thickness and fat content. They had a slightly crispy outer skin and a melted interior fat that worked together perfectly. It’s definitely delicious braised pork intestine—don’t miss it if you’re a fan of good intestines.

Stir-fried flatbread is probably one of the most common and heartwarming dishes in military dependents’ village cuisine. This dish is said to be made from leftover scallion pancakes—originally just to avoid wasting ingredients, but it ended up becoming a famous military village dish. I personally really like this dish, and if I see it, I’ll usually order it. I can’t really say whether the version at the village entrance is authentic or not, and I don’t really care, but in terms of texture, I found it a bit too wet. I prefer a slightly crispier pancake skin, though this stir-fried flatbread still smells great and is tasty.

Stir-fried shredded potatoes with meat is a common side dish in noodle shops run by older mainland Chinese uncles, but the preparation varies a bit—or rather, the flavor is different. At the village entrance, it’s relatively oilier and heavier, but I like that =). The potatoes are stir-fried a bit softer, lacking the slight crispness you might want in a lighter stir-fry, but they’re also a bit more tender and soft as a result. The seasoning has a mix of salty, sweet, a touch of spiciness, and meaty sweetness—it’s really quite delicious.

Some people say this dish is fried shrimp, but I don’t think it really is, or at least it’s a bit different from the fried shrimp I’ve had before. Though you can actually eat the shell, the texture is a bit too hard and a little off-putting. Also, this fried shrimp lacks the sweetness of Jiangsu-Zhejiang cuisine, which is one of the main reasons I like fried shrimp. So I can only say the shrimp is tasty, but it’s not really to my taste.

This big plate of pig’s trotters is more on the light-braising side. The skin is lightly chewy with a wonderful melt-in-your-mouth texture after just a bite or two, and the lean meat part has a slight firmness. Overall, it’s quite delicious, and dipping it in the shop’s specially made Zhenjiang vinegar takes it to another level. But if you’re sensitive to the smell of pork, you might want to go easy on the skin—leave it for people like us who don’t mind (laughs).

The sesame sauce cucumber is also tasty, but for some reason the cucumber is a bit too soft and lacks crispness.

Another characteristic of military dependents’ village cuisine is the large portions—it feels like they’re afraid the guests or family won’t have enough to eat. This bowl of double-sauce noodles doesn’t just have a lot of noodles, but the sesame and fried sauces are also served in big scoops. It’s super satisfying just to look at.

Stirring this bowl of noodles requires some effort because it’s quite sticky. Eating it is the same—the stickiness is really satisfying, but it does have a slightly dry texture, at least not as smooth as other versions. But overall, it’s still definitely delicious.

This plate of dumplings with double fillings—the chive filling is full of that military village flavor and is delicious, but the cabbage and pork filling somehow turned out a bit mushy... kind of creepy.

Finally, another dish I highly recommend from the village entrance is their “stir-fried braised delicacies.” It’s basically taking leftover braised items and stir-frying them again with sauce. To be honest, it’s really tasty, but usually by this point everyone is already full, so it can feel a bit too greasy. Unless it’s the drinking session in the second half of the meal, then it’s definitely a lot of fun.
【Village Entrance】
Address:No. 34, Lane 52, Alley 12, Section 3, Bade Road, Songshan District, Taipei City
Phone:02 -2579-6455
Business Hours:11:00–14:00; 17:00–21:00
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