Daily-chain udon noodles follow B-grade cuisine style – Curry udon under NT$100

Text and photos byOrange Dog Loves Candy

Thinking about it, I’ve had soba, cold noodles, and ramen in Japan, but somehow I’ve never tried udon there. I had actually planned to visit Yamamoto Menzo in Kyoto last year, but my trip was delayed due to heavy rain, which was a bit disappointing. I don’t have any particular fondness for udon noodles, probably because they always make me feel like I’m not getting much for my money – just a few quick slurps and it’s gone. Otherwise, I actually really love the unique elasticity and chewiness of the noodles themselves. Who would’ve thought that after the wave of chain ramen shops flooding Taiwan, even [Marugame Seimen], a chain udon shop, has made its way to Taiwan? In just the past two months, three more branches have opened in Taoyuan, Kaohsiung, and Taichung. Driven by curiosity, I decided to join the hype.

(This is the Taoyuan store – the layout is basically the same everywhere.) The Taichung [Marugame Seimen] is located on the 12th floor of Shin Kong Mitsukoshi, in the food court, where you’ll also find Kagu Ramen. Having already established 777 branches in Japan, Marugame opened four stores as soon as it entered Taiwan.

For them, choosing a smart expansion strategy by setting up in food courts was a great move, as it eliminates seating limitations. Otherwise, take NAGI Ramen at Tiger City for example – it’s super popular, but since all the seats are always full, you end up having to wait in line. While Marugame is also hugely popular and requires waiting, at least you don’t have to worry about customers not having a place to sit.

(But not having to wait too long to get your food is also a plus – at most, you’ll wait around 15 to 20 minutes.) So, it’s recommended that when you come to try it out, you decide what you want to order beforehand, with one person ordering while the other looks for a seat.

Otherwise, you’ll end up like us today – having ordered our meal but finding not a single seat available, and by the time we got to eat, the noodles were already cold. Choosing to open on a small weekend like Friday was clearly a move to attract long lines, just like in Taoyuan. People lined up around the store, and it’s a semi-self-service setup here as well.

On the first day, there were also quite a few Japanese chefs on-site preparing and teaching, and although their Chinese accents were a bit rough, you could still feel their warm and friendly attitude. I hope this level of service continues.

On the menu board above, you can choose from their various noodle options, each available in medium or large portions. Considering the pricing from Japan to Taiwan, they’ve definitely stuck with the B-grade cuisine style, offering much more affordable prices compared to ramen shops. You can even get a bowl of udon curry for just over NT$100, though it only comes with a few slices of braised beef and not much else.

After choosing the flavor of your udon, you can then start picking your side of fried items. The prices for the fried items are very reasonable, ranging from around NT$30 to NT$35, but it’s easy to go overboard and end up with more than you can finish.

It’s recommended to pick two or three items. For someone with an appetite like mine, one bowl of udon with three fried sides is enough to fill me up. There are also seaweed rice balls available at the end, which make for an interesting combination (though I personally recommend the fried shrimp and fried chicken as the tastier options).

After selecting your fried items, there’s a seasoning section near the utensils area with leftover crispy batter bits and chopped green onions from the frying process – it’s highly recommended to add both to your udon, as they play indispensable roles in enhancing the flavor.

You can also add seasoning sauce or shichimi spice here, along with some instructions on how to eat it.

[Curry Beef Udon / M / NT$119]
Because the first time I had it in Taoyuan, I went with the Beef Tamago Udon, so this time I wanted to switch it up. Although the ingredients seem simpler, my satisfaction level is actually higher than with the beef tamago version.

I think it’s because the curry sauce is rich and thick, coating the noodles completely and delivering that satisfying curry flavor. The Q-textured udon noodles are incredibly smooth and slippery – you can feel their elasticity just by picking them up. When you bite into the core, it’s cooked through, but the noodles still have plenty of chew. I heard they’re made with only wheat flour, salt, and water.

You can also see the noodle-making process happening in the store. Even after soaking in the soup, the noodles don’t become overly mushy. The curry sauce is quite bold in flavor, with a thick, aromatic curry taste that hits the spot, and the addition of sharp green onions provides a refreshing contrast. The combination in your mouth is simple yet strangely delightful, and I chose the curry sauce specifically to pair with the fried items.

[Fried Chicken NT$35 / Fried Fish Cake NT$30 / Fried Shrimp NT$35]
The fried chicken from this place is, in my experience, one of the better versions you’ll find at Japanese-style restaurants.

And because it’s a new store and there’s a line, the fried items are always freshly made and served hot, often getting snatched up before you can even wait – so the juicy chicken inside is still warm. The batter is relatively thin, so this one is a must-try.

As for the fish cake, it’s just your average fried fish cake – nothing particularly amazing or bad, but it’s a different story when you add the curry sauce. The shrimp has a good bounce to it, and the batter at the Taichung store isn’t too thick, unlike the last time I had it in Taoyuan where it was way too heavy. As for the other fried items I’ve tried, I’d only recommend the fried chicken and fried shrimp!! And remember to pair them with the curry-flavored udon – it’s great together.

[Spicy Pork Bone Udon / M / NT$129]
Someone saw this bowl and said it looked like Japan’s version of big noodle soup – honestly, it kind of does XD It looks a lot more substantial, and it’s just slightly more expensive. Next to it is the Mentaiko Udon, which my friend ordered. I didn’t try it, so I can’t say how spicy it is, but the broth continues the bold Japanese style, so it was a bit too salty for my friend today. To me, it tasted just right – a pure soy-sauce-flavored broth. The udon noodles were just as excellent as always, so if you’re interested, you might want to give it a try.

[Tamago Udon / M / Forgot how much]
Their onsen tamago (hot spring egg) is really outstanding – you should try one if you’re interested. Both the white and yolk are half-cooked. This one is probably the basic version, though I forgot how much it cost.

(Japanese stores launched a lemon-flavored cold noodle this summer. I wonder if Taiwan will get it too.) Last time I went to the Taoyuan store, I didn’t write about it because aside from my love for the noodles themselves, I was a bit disappointed with the fried items. The batter was too thick, and the fried items were all cold. There was no rancid oil smell, but it just didn’t have the right vibe. Today, because of the high popularity from the new opening, the freshness of the hot fried items was preserved, and the batter thickness was just right. (Though I only somewhat liked the fried items, I really don’t like the outer batter coating – why not use tonkatsu breadcrumbs?) So it felt quite different.. which is why I couldn’t help but take out my camera and snap a few more photos to document my Marugame Seimen experience. But in terms of noodle flavor, I probably still prefer the curry-flavored version, along with those zesty green onions. Nearby, NAGI Tonkotsu Ramen has been insanely popular and always has a line since it opened. I hope Marugame can steal some of its crowd. I heard Ichiran is also opening at Shin Kong Mitsukoshi in July – although I was a bit disappointed with the Taipei branch, I’ll probably still check out the Taichung opening XD.. It seems like this second half of the year is going to be a battleground for Japanese noodles!! Sharing my simple thoughts with everyone.. If you’re interested, gather a group and go queue up together!!

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[Marugame Seimen Sanuki Udon │ Shin Kong Mitsukoshi │ Xitun District]
Address: 12F, No. 301, Section 3, Taiwan Boulevard, Xitun District, Taichung City (12F, Shin Kong Mitsukoshi)
Business hours: 11:00 AM - 10:00 PM
Consumption reminder: No service charge, reservations not accepted. Please find your own seat after picking up your food.
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