The Taste of Tainan That Homesick Hearts Crave: A Warm Pairing of Milkfish Intestine Soup and Pork Rice

Text and Photos byOrange Dog

I spent five or six years in Taichung. At first, I was surprised by all the rice dishes—pork rice, stewed pork rice—but over time, I got used to them. My palate gradually shifted from the familiar Tainan flavors to Taichung street food staples like Dongquan chili sauce and thick noodle soup. But the taste of my hometown still tugged at me every now and then. Especially that ‘pork rice’—every time I went back to Tainan, I had to have a bowl. It was more than just comfort food; it was a taste of homesickness, a warm reminder of home. Is that too dramatic?... I think only fellow expatriates can truly understand. I still remember back when I first arrived in Taichung, wandering around on my scooter and stumbling upon this place—【Tainan Luo Ji, Chef Ah Quan’s Boneless Milkfish】—on Zhongzheng Road. The fact that it proudly served Tainan flavors in a foreign place was quite intriguing, and from afar, it looked like business was pretty good too.

It wasn’t until last year that I suddenly remembered this shop again. One evening, I made a special trip to check it out. The parking lot was packed, and the shop with its rather long name—【Tainan Luo Ji, Chef Ah Quan’s Boneless Milkfish】—had a distinctly Tainan vibe. The cooking station was constantly steaming with pots, giving off a familiar aroma. I’ve been here both during the day and at night, and the place is always bustling. Sometimes you have to wait for a seat. I noticed a sign outside the shop that read ‘Originally from No. 31, Xingzhong Street, Second Market,’ so I guessed it must have started there. But after the decline of Central District back then, many shops and stalls actually moved away from the Second Market—after all, the glory days were over. The aunties working here are really nice. You don’t even need to write down your order; just tell them what you want, and they’ll bring it to your table once it’s ready. So you can just pick a seat after ordering.

It’s a semi-open space, and the counter inside has a lot of items. At a shop that sells pork rice, you’ll often see big piles of shredded fish on display. There are also plates of milkfish slices—it definitely has that familiar Tainan flavor. Since they also sell bento boxes, there are plenty of side dishes to choose from, and it’s all so enticing it makes your mouth water. On the wall menu board, densely packed with options, most of the dishes revolve around milkfish—from fish balls and fish skin to fish intestines and braised fish belly. Almost everything is one of my favorites, and of course, there are also shredded bamboo shoots and pickled cabbage.

A bowl of pork rice paired with a bowl of milkfish soup, and if I’m feeling indulgent, a serving of fish belly—that’s my favorite combo. Though it’s not exactly cheap for a meal... While I was snapping some casual photos, I found the aunties working here pretty amusing because they’d always notice me taking pictures. Some shop staff aren’t too fond of being photographed, but these aunties would actually ask me if I got a nice shot. So the atmosphere here feels really relaxed and full of warmth. Though when they’re busy, their expressions can get a bit stern at times.

【Pork Rice │ Small Bowl 25 TWD │ Large Bowl 35 TWD】
This kind of pork rice goes by slightly different names across northern, central, and southern Taiwan, and preparation methods vary. But I still stick to this version. I remember when I had Tian Yixiang’s stewed pork rice at Keelung Miaokou, I couldn’t accept the fact that there was no fat on it XD. It has to be packed with chunks of fatty pork, slightly gelatinous and sticky, sprinkled with a bit of shredded fish, and the white rice has to be cooked until it’s glossy, soft, and chewy. The moment you take a bite, the rich, smooth fat melts in your mouth—a delightful mix of flavors. The sweetness of the shredded fish and pork rice blends together with a slight crispiness, and then you just keep shoveling in the rice. It may sound simple, but it’s a taste I’ve grown up with. Their pork rice isn’t as southern-style as the ones I’m used to, but it’s pretty close—I quite like it.

【Milkfish Intestine Soup │ 80 TWD │ Highly Recommended】
When it comes to fish intestines, opinions are divided—some love it, others hate it. I’ve recommended it to many friends, and most of them turned it down, just like with eel noodles. People who love it can’t get enough, but those who are hesitant often back away after the first bite. I didn’t grow up eating this dish because preparing the ingredients isn’t exactly simple. But the first time I tried pan-fried fish intestines, I fell in love. I know the process usually involves manually cleaning out the intestinal mucus, cutting out the gallbladder, soaking the intestines in salt and rice wine to remove the fishy smell, and then blanching them in boiling water before using them.

Whether the prep work is done well or the fish is fresh enough really shows in the taste. This is a dish many Tainan locals love. In popular milkfish restaurants, if you show up too late, you might not even get a bowl. But at Tainan Luo, this bowl of fish intestine soup is really hearty—the portion is solid, and you can barely see any broth. A sprinkle of shredded ginger cuts through the richness. Each bite of the fish intestines delivers a deep, rich flavor with a slightly chewy, springy texture, complemented by the spiciness of the ginger and the sweet, savory broth. Although I personally prefer pan-fried fish intestines, this soup is definitely worth trying. If you’re not into the soup, their fish ball soup is also delicious and quite generous in portion.

【Braised Milkfish Belly │ 80 TWD】
After trying the fish intestines, it would be a shame not to try the delicious braised fish belly. To me, pork rice and fish belly are a match made in heaven because I love mixing the fatty part of the fish belly with my rice. With the pork belly already adding calories, adding fish belly takes it to an extreme level. Their fish belly is boneless and thick, so you can enjoy the rich flavor of the fish meat without any hassle. Though today the braising sauce was a bit light—still, it’s a tasty fish belly. You could also try the fish belly soup.

【Braised Pork Intestines │ 80 TWD】
This one is purely out of personal bias—I can’t resist ordering pork intestines whenever I see them. The portion is decent, and it tastes pretty good. Sure, the price is a bit high, but it’s well-seasoned, and the braising sauce has that sweet southern flavor we love.

They open really early—at 6 AM—which makes sense because starting your day with pork rice and a nutritious fish soup is super satisfying. Though Zhongzheng Road is close to the freeway entrance, and the traffic is pretty heavy, so finding parking can be tricky if you drive. By the way, I just recently noticed there’s another shop next door called Tainan Su that also serves boneless milkfish, and their business seems pretty good too. It seems like even for a simple bowl of pork rice and milkfish at this little intersection, the competition is fierce. No wonder the roadside is often packed with cars. With Tainan tourism booming lately, everyone wants to try a taste of Tainan’s street food. But if you don’t have time to head south, why not give this place a try? For not a lot of money, you can get a very Tainan-flavored, satisfying meal.

◎ Shop Introduction: [Tainan Luo Ah Quan’s Boneless Milkfish, Zhongzheng Road, Liming Road │ Xitun District]
◎ Address: No. 590, Zhongzheng Road, Xitun District, Taichung City
◎ Phone: 04-7785571
◎ Business Hours: 6:00 AM – 10:00 PM
◎ Tip: It’s recommended to order together with others to try a wider variety of dishes

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