A three-generation, century-old nostalgic bakery reinvents itself as a classic Taiwanese afternoon tea spot!

Text and photos by /Orange Dog Loves Candy

Taichung bakeries are most famous for Sun Temple, Ah Ming’s sun cakes, Junmei pineapple cakes, and Ah Cong’s Dajia taro cakes. Last year, the Sunflower Movement unexpectedly made another Taichung bakery, Qi Qi Sun Cakes Jiawei Xuan, popular. Of course, there are many other big and small bakeries, but I’d never heard of Lin Jinshengxiang Bakery, tucked away in Nantun Old Street. After all, I’m not a native Taichunger. However, this Lin Jinshengxiang was established in the fifth year of the Qing Tongzhi era (around 1866), originally starting with the production of wheat gluten cakes near Wanhe Temple. Now in its third generation, it recently caught our attention online thanks to the photo of its tea treats (the first image). So we made a special trip to Nantun Old Street to explore this century-old bakery’s rebirth under its new brand, 【Lin Jinshengxiang Scent Lab】.

The current storefront of 【Lin Jinshengxiang Scent Lab】 was originally the bakery’s location, but after this branch opened, the bakery moved next door. The exterior of the red-brick old building features large modern floor-to-ceiling glass windows for natural light. The sign modestly displays the name “Lin Jinshengxiang.” This bakery also sells well-known Taichung pastries such as sun cakes, pineapple cakes, and top scholar cakes. But what’s even more special is that they’ve developed unique flavors using another local specialty, “ma yi” (also called “ma zhen”), as an ingredient. Ma yi thrives in the soil and water conditions around Nantun, making it particularly suitable for cultivation here. It is sown in March and harvested in September, so using ma yi as an ingredient gives Lin Jinshengxiang a distinct regional identity. Actually, this was my first time trying ma yi. I’ve lived in Taichung for over six years and have eaten plenty of sun cakes and da mian geng (a local noodle soup), but I’d only ever heard of ma yi without knowing where to try it.

On a regular weekday, 【Lin Jinshengxiang Scent Lab】 had very few customers, and its location in the old street made it quite peaceful. According to the staff, it had just been renovated and reopened this Lunar New Year, so I guess not many people know about it yet. However, quite a few people came to buy pastries, so the staff might have had to repeatedly explain to visitors during the soft opening that the bakery is located further inside. The overall space strikes a balance between retro and modern design, retaining the original red brick walls while incorporating wooden elements.

What drew me here was mainly their creative vision for revitalizing an old shop. Instead of following the trend of coffee shop styles, they’ve preserved the essence of traditional Taiwanese flavors and fused them with Western design to create their own signature dishes and space. The space design adopts the popular open-concept layout of modern cafés, with all partition walls removed to brighten the interior and extend the visual space. Wooden elements wrap the space, adding a natural and cozy atmosphere.

But the most special thing for me was the shop’s incredibly capable staff member, who could give detailed introductions to the products and fluently explain the concepts behind the product designs and spatial layout—non-stop and effortlessly.

Take a look at the MENU. There are three basic set meals, all pre-arranged, and none of them are without a drink or dish featuring ma yi—such as ma yi au lait, ma yi chiffon cake, and jelly. The price of 250 TWD isn’t exactly cheap, but it’s not unreasonably high either, depending on your perspective. More uniquely, there’s a 280 TWD DIY experience meal where you can try making top scholar cakes yourself, though I didn’t try it today. There are also three other set meals with different combinations, and today I chose three sets to try.

【Local Flavor – Taiwanese Style | Sun Cake Combo + Jian Kan Cake, Ma Yi Jelly + Wenshan Pouchong Tea | 250 TWD】
The plating style was really likable—simple yet elegantly Chinese, visually pleasing and feeling rich. However, the portion size is actually more suitable as an afternoon tea snack after a meal, perfect for chatting over desserts. Let me start with the highlight, the sun cakes, which come in original and ma yi flavors. The original uses maltose.

The crispness and layering of the crust were excellent, but because it was baked again before serving, the original filling became crispy and hard, losing that soft, sticky chewiness and seeming a bit ordinary. On the other hand, I really liked the green ma yi sun cake. After harvesting, ma yi must go through four steps—sorting, rubbing, kneading, and washing—to remove bitterness before being used in food. It retained the soft, slightly sticky chewiness of the original sun cake, the layered aroma of the crust, and a refreshing tea fragrance inside, reminiscent of matcha but lighter and more delicate. As for the jelly, I thought it was okay. The white “Jian Kan Cake” was more familiar—it’s a traditional Taiwanese pastry often seen on the offering table during the Lunar New Year’s Sky God worship, wrapped in red paper. It’s quite sweet, but I loved it as a kid. Lin Jinshengxiang’s version has lower sweetness and a much firmer texture.

The Wenshan Pouchong tea leaves weren’t used in a large amount. The staff said the amount had been adjusted to pair perfectly with the tea treats, resulting in a smooth, non-astringent taste. The floral aroma was subtle, but the tea color was just right. It felt like the amount could have been a bit more, and only the first brew was really good—the second refill became quite weak.

【Local Flavor – Western Style | Ma Yi Chiffon Cake + Jian Kan Cake, Ma Yi Jelly + Ma Yi Latte | 250 TWD】
The highlight here was the homemade ma yi chiffon cake (or at least we think it’s homemade—we’re not entirely sure). It was topped with some hand-whipped fresh cream. I’ve noticed recently that more shops are also changing up their fresh cream.

The smoothness and texture of the hand-whipped fresh cream were absolutely perfect for pairing with chiffon cake, though the portion given that day was a bit small. For this cake, the moisture level of the cake body was just right, but I actually preferred its soft, fluffy, and chewy texture.

Mixed with the elegant tea fragrance of ma yi and not overly sweet, it was the perfect Western-style flavor for afternoon tea. The iced ma yi latte was also nice—I’d say it’s like a matcha latte but with a more delicate tea flavor and silky smooth foam.

【Local Flavor – Creative Mix | Honey Sweet Potato + Jian Kan Cake, Ma Yi Jelly + Ma Yi Au Lait | 250 TWD】
Sweet potato is probably the ingredient I’m most familiar with, since my dad grows it, and we eat it often at home. Plus, my family is from Xinhua, Tainan, a famous sweet potato-producing area. So “honey sweet potato” is like an old friend. Lin Jinshengxiang’s version is pretty good—not too sweet, but the portion was just way too small for me.

After all, it’s not an expensive ingredient, but just three simple pieces in the set made the portion feel a bit skimpy. Thankfully, the hot ma yi au lait saved the day—it’s creamy, rich milk enveloped in ma yi’s gentle tea fragrance, which I really liked.

I’m quite glad that this reborn brand from an old house didn’t chase trends to become just another café, but instead incorporated lots of local Taiwanese flavors and ingredients to create its own style of afternoon tea. Overall, it’s quite comfortable, though I do feel the portions or variety could be a bit more substantial. It was good, but not mind-blowing. That said, everything I tried was delicious, and it’s a great start—using a new packaging to introduce this century-old brand to more young people. If you’re interested, maybe consider stopping by Nantun—have a hearty meal at Nantun Market first, then enjoy an afternoon tea session.

◎ Shop Introduction: [Lin Jinshengxiang Scent Lab – Century-Old Bakery │Nantun District]
◎ Address: No. 59, Section 1, Wanhe Road, Nantun District, Taichung City
◎ Phone: 04-23899867
◎ Business Hours: 10:30 AM–9:30 PM
◎ Note: Irregular holidays; located within Nantun Old Street

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