A Hokkaido landscape shaped by trams and bicycles

Text by TRAVELER Luxe Lin Qinhui

 

After the long, harsh winter of snow and cold, Hokkaido’s spring and summer feel all the more precious and radiant. What welcomes Hokkaido’s spring and summer are seas of competing floral colors and vast natural scenery. As if aware of how brief the northern summer is, this landscape woven from lush greenery and vibrant hues unleashes its most captivating brilliance during spring and summer.

In Hokkaido, take a train to your desired destination, then eagerly hop on a bicycle as soon as you get off. Surrounded by fresh air and breathtaking scenery, enjoy the purest and most relaxing moments—this is the most delightful way to explore the region in spring and summer. On this trip, we visited quaint shops and cafes scattered across Hakodate, took in Niseko’s natural pastoral landscapes undulating along the mountain ridges, and ended up in Kushiro to breathe in the rich forest air. With a slow and leisurely pace, our hearts were filled with emotion.

The elegant European-style port town, Hakodate

After renting an electric bicycle from the LOISIR HOTEL near Hakodate Station, head northeast about four kilometers to the Goryokaku area. The Goryokaku Tower, which opened in 2006, stands next to Goryokaku Park. Climb the 90-meter observation deck to take in the star-shaped structure of Goryokaku Park from above, especially enchanting when accented by early spring cherry blossoms. Along the way, visit the café Pibrey in a corner of the park, where large floor-to-ceiling windows flood the space with greenery, tinged with hints of cherry pink in early spring. Order a pizza and the morning-only “Ohnebo Set” (sleep-in set, including two small bread rolls, vegetables, fruits, yogurt, and a drink). The aroma of freshly baked pizza wafts through the air, with its crispy crust and soft interior. Savor the satisfaction slowly in a relaxed and comfortable atmosphere.

After saying goodbye to Pibrey, head to the Motomachi area in the west. You can also rent a yellow bicycle from BAY Hakodate if you’d like to start here. First, go to Midori no Shima across from the Kinendo Red Brick Warehouse, taking in the view of red bricks set against the blue sky and river surface. Then slowly cycle back, passing by the century-old warehouse complex that comes back into view. Originally long warehouses for merchant ships to dock and unload goods, as the role of the port declined, these elegant red-brick walls have transformed into modern dining and shopping spaces. Dozens of boutique and specialty shops gather here, making it a fun and rewarding place to explore.

 

Stroll around freely, and you’ll often come across beautiful slopes along the way, sometimes extending toward the sea, other times climbing up the hillside. The air is filled with a romantic ambiance. On both sides of the street, a variety of unique boutiques and elegant cafes are scattered about. Walk and stop as you please, visiting whichever shops catch your eye. This area features many curious buildings that blend Japanese and Western styles, including the boutique Iroha. Built in 1908, Iroha combines a nostalgic Japanese-style first floor with a striking Western-style second floor, making it truly unique. The shop focuses on Japanese-style living items, offering a wide range of tableware, accessories, kitchenware, and other everyday goods. It’s easy to get lost in the thrill of shopping here.

Enjoy the thrill of speeding downhill, Niseko

The undulating valleys of Niseko are covered in premium powder snow in winter, becoming a skiing destination, and in spring and summer, they transform into a paradise for outdoor activities such as canoeing and cycling. The thrill of speeding downhill on a bicycle is exhilarating. Here, you can skip the strenuous uphill climbs and purely enjoy the rush of descending. Niseko Town not only has seven spots offering free bicycle rentals but also has four cycling routes. By using local buses, you can carry your bike uphill for just 100 yen per trip (limited to two bikes), saving energy and money.

 

After renting a bicycle in front of Niseko Station, we chose the Niseko Hills and Fields Route. We took a bus up to the Kanro no Mori Hotel and started our journey from there. The smooth downhill sections not only bring joy and relaxation but also feature endless fields and flower seas that continuously shift with the crops—sometimes lush green, sometimes golden rice fields paired with purple potato flowers and green vegetables in perfect harmony, creating a feast for the eyes.