▲ This year’s newly harvested rice in Gongguan is now available for purchase directly from farmers. Photo by Chen Zhidong
▲ Gongguan’s rice is harvested twice a year, typically about a month later than in southern Taiwan, resulting in fine, chewy, and fragrant grains. Photo by Chen Zhidong
▲ The water in the Chuanlong Irrigation Channel is crystal clear, often attracting locals to fish here. Photo by Chen Zhidong
▲ The majestic and scenic Houlong River in Miaoli is also the source of the Chuanlong Irrigation Channel in Gongguan. Photo by Chen Zhidong
▲ Besides irrigating farmland, the Chuanlong Irrigation Channel was once a traditional laundry spot for local women, offering a glimpse of olden-day rural life. Photo by Chen Zhidong

In summer, Gongguan Township in Miaoli offers cool irrigation channels, bright red jujubes, and opportunities for water play, fruit picking, and vegetable harvesting—perfect for family outings.

Miaoli’s Gongguan Township is known as the “Land of Four Reds,” with mulberries in spring, red jujubes in summer, persimmons in autumn, and strawberries in winter—four vibrant red fruits throughout the year. Beyond the four reds, golden rice, pickled mustard greens, taro, silk, and golden shower trees are also local specialties. When these bloom or are harvested, the whole town glows golden and bountiful, earning it the nickname “Golden Town.”

However, neither the Four Reds nor the Golden Town would exist today without the “Chuanlong Irrigation Channel.”

■ The Chuanlong Irrigation Channel Nurtures Bountiful Produce

“Chuanlong” means “crossing the Houlong River.” During the Qing Dynasty, Hakka people settled in Gongguan, Miaoli, busy cultivating rice and reclaiming land while also fighting with indigenous tribes over territory. To make matters worse, after the fights, they had to fetch water manually.

To reduce their workload, residents of Gongguan Township dug a roughly 300-meter-long water diversion tunnel along the nearby Houlong River around the year 1840. The water was then channeled through the South Main Irrigation Channel, North Main Irrigation Channel, and various smaller channels, irrigating over 800 hectares of farmland in both Gongguan and Tongluo townships. The system was further improved during the Japanese colonial period.

Visiting the current water intake point along the Houlong River, one can easily imagine the hardship Gongguan residents endured using traditional tools like shovels and pickaxes to dig the irrigation channels. Yet, this effort ensures Gongguan has ample water supply. According to a 2007 survey by the Miaoli Irrigation Association, the Chuanlong Irrigation Channel is home to dozens of species, including spotted barbs, guppies, Chinese flower loaches, rough marsh shrimp, Racilaus freshwater crabs, stonewort, waterweed, and water spinach—indicating clean water quality.

Walking along the Chuanlong Irrigation Channel, you’ll often see women washing clothes, farmers irrigating fields, people fishing, and dogs playing in the water—an idyllic rural scene. In summer, bring extra clothes for kids, choose safe areas for water play, and enjoy a free and refreshing family outing.

■ Farm-Sun-Dried Rice: Fragrant and Chewy

Don’t miss the chance to buy farm-sun-dried golden rice when visiting Gongguan in summer. About half of Gongguan’s land is used for rice cultivation. Farmer Wu Zhiyou explains that Miaoli rice takes about 130 days to mature—nearly a month longer than the 90–110 days in southern Taiwan. The longer growth period and rotation with taro result in evenly distributed trace elements, fewer pests, and rice that is fine-textured, fragrant, and chewy.

Traditionally, Gongguan farmers set aside part of their rice harvest for personal use, drying and milling it the old-fashioned way. Every July and November during harvest season, golden fields abound. Visitors lucky enough may witness the sun-drying spectacle or can contact the Golden Town Promotion Association to coordinate purchases of freshly sun-dried rice directly from farmers—tasting distinctly of sunshine.

■ Gongguan Taro: Fluffy and Aromatic

Taro is another Gongguan specialty. Grown in rotation with rice and in lime-rich soil, it boasts a fluffy and aromatic texture. Zhan Rongcai, secretary-general of the Golden Town Promotion Association, notes that Gongguan taro is of the same variety as Dajia taro—the areca-heart taro—so much so that merchants often buy Gongguan taro and sell it as Dajia taro. This speaks volumes about Gongguan taro’s high quality, though it lacks brand recognition.

Gongguan taro is in peak season from October to January. In summer, visitors can try taro stems. This year, farmer Zhang Shichun is also experimenting with organic taro cultivation. Contact the Golden Town Promotion Association to arrange visits or place orders.

INDEX: Travel in Gongguan, Miaoli

★ Golden Town Promotion Association / No. 338, Nangang Village, Gongguan Township, Miaoli County / 037-237641, 037-237698 / http://gotown.pixnet.net/blog / Visitors are advised to drive to Gongguan. From the Miaoli Interchange on National Freeway No. 1, follow signs for about 5 minutes to reach Gongguan. For transportation, dining, and travel info, contact the Golden Town Promotion Association.

★ Jianfu Organic Farm / No. 25, Lane 2, Nanhé Village, Gongguan Township, Miaoli County / 037-228745 / http://jforganic.blogspot.com / GPS Coordinates / Longitude 120°51'11", Latitude 24°31'46"

★ Royal Homestay / No. 265-1, Nangang Village, Gongguan Township, Miaoli County / 037-238995 / www.royalhomestay.com.tw / GPS Coordinates / Longitude 120°49'26", Latitude 24°29'36"