Temple of the Ten Sages

　　      When visiting Zhanjiang, you can’t miss Leizhou. To understand the history and culture of Zhanjiang, a trip to Leizhou is especially essential. And when in Leizhou, you must pay your respects at the Temple of the Ten Sages in Xihu Park.

　　      The Leizhou Peninsula lies at the southernmost tip of mainland China, far from the political center, which led people in the Central Plains to often regard it as a wild and malarial land. Emperors saw Leizhou’s remoteness as a place not only for political punishment but also for personal humiliation. Yet history has its ironies—many virtuous officials and poets renowned through the ages were banished to Leizhou or passed through on their way to even more distant Hainan. Their talents and ambitions overlooked in the Central Plains found expression in Lingnan, greatly benefiting Leizhou, which thus rose to become a major city and cultural hub of the region. In the tenth year of the Xianchun era of the Southern Song Dynasty (1274), the people of Leizhou built the “Temple of the Ten Sages” to honor ten eminent officials who were either exiled to or passed through Leizhou: Kou Zhun, Su Shi, Su Zhe, Qin Guan, Wang Yansou, Ren Boyu, Li Gang, Zhao Ding, Li Guang, and Hu Quan. Interestingly, Wang Yansou had never set foot in Leizhou during his lifetime, but was posthumously “banished” to the position of Bieche (a minor official post) in Leizhou. Someone whom the emperor despised so much was accepted by the people of Leizhou with great magnanimity and even pride. Who had better judgment—the ruler of a great nation or the “barbarians” of the south? Inside the temple stands a stone tablet inscribed with the “Record of the Hall of the Ten Sages,” penned with tears by another great hero who came to Leizhou in the late Southern Song Dynasty—Wen Tianxiang. At a time when the dynasty was on the brink of collapse, what sorrow and reflection did this powerless prime minister feel as he faced the legacy of his predecessors?

　　      The name “Xihu Park” is also related to two of the Ten Sages—Su Shi and his brother Su Zhe. Originally called Leihu (Thunder Lake), the lake was renamed after Su Shi met his previously exiled brother Su Zhe here during his own exile to Leizhou. After getting drunk by the lake, Su Shi was reminded of the sights and memories by West Lake in Hangzhou. Locals then renamed the lake “Xihu” (West Lake) and built the Sugu Pavilion by the water to commemorate the two literary giants. The park also houses historic sites such as the Kou Gong Ancestral Hall and the Junyuan Academy, both closely tied to the history and culture of the Leizhou Peninsula—visitors should do some research beforehand.     Transportation        Buses to Leizhou depart from Chikan Bus Station in Zhanjiang (near the overpass), costing 10 RMB per person. There are also unlicensed vans charging 20 RMB per person and departing once four passengers are ready. Be sure to look for vehicles marked “credit car,” as others may take detours. For groups of three or four, taking a taxi is also a good option.

　　 Zhanjiang City, Guangdong Province