Early in the morning, I strolled toward the southern outskirts of Leizhou City, along the Xia River, and stepped onto Han Gong Bridge. The reliefs on both sides of the bridge were vivid and amusing. Moving forward, a majestic temple—the Leizhou Tianhou Palace—came into view. Looking up at the mountain gate, the three large golden characters “Tian Hou Gong” (Tianhou Palace), inscribed in the spring of 1992 by Su Shi, Secretary-General of the Chinese Calligraphers Association, were strikingly eye-catching. On both sides of the gate was a couplet: “The grace of Fujian’s maritime region flows to the people of Guangdong; the virtue of Leiyang connects to Putian,” each character powerful and vigorous, expressing the deep connection between the Leizhou Tianhou Palace and the Mazu from Meizhou in Putian, Fujian. It clearly tells people that the people of Leizhou migrated from southern Fujian’s Putian, and the “Goddess” of Putian also came to Leizhou.
The Leizhou Tianhou Palace was first built during the Song Dynasty, renovated many times over the dynasties. In 1985, local residents raised more than 1.3 million yuan to renovate it once again. Its architecture is magnificent, featuring three courtyards laid out along a central axis, largely retaining the scale constructed during the Ming Dynasty’s Wanli era. In front stand two large stone lions and carved dragon pillars, highlighting the temple’s grandeur. To the left and right are auxiliary halls: the Gatekeeper Pavilion on the left and the Earth God Pavilion on the right. Then there is an open courtyard with a stone pagoda, stone chamber, and stone railings; on both sides are the east and west side halls. The east side hall houses the Kitchen Supervisor, while the west side hall has the Slaughter Supervisor, each managing their respective duties. On the eastern side is a reading room for visitors to explore historical materials. Historical records confirm: Tianhou, indeed, was a real person. Her name was Lin Mo; people called her Momo or Mazu. She was from Xianliang Port (now Gangli Village, Zhongmen Township) on Meizhou Island, Putian County, Fujian Province. Born on the 23rd day of the third lunar month in the first year of the Jianlong era (960 AD) of Emperor Taizu of the Song Dynasty, she was the sixth daughter of Lin Yuan, the Imperial Patrol Inspector of the Song capital. She was named so because she did not cry even after a full month after birth. Lin Mo was intelligent from childhood; at eight she studied under a teacher, and by fifteen she could gather herbs in the mountains to treat villagers’ illnesses. Skilled in meteorology and water navigation, she often sailed the seas and bravely rescued endangered sailors and merchants amid turbulent waves. Legend says she could ride a mat across the sea, exorcise evil, and save lives, hence known as the “Goddess” or “Dragon Girl.” At the age of 28, on the ninth day of the ninth lunar month, she set sail alone and ascended to the peak of Meizhou Island, then disappeared without a trace. It is said she ascended to become the “Goddess of the Sea,” often appearing in red garments to aid those in distress among the islands. The villagers, in gratitude, built a temple to worship her. She was posthumously honored by emperors through the ages...
...42 times, bestowed titles such as “Tianhou” (Heavenly Empress), “Tianfei” (Heavenly Consort), and “Duimu” (Mother of the People). Mazu has also become the only female deity worshipped by the public along China’s coasts. Liang Qichao once composed a couplet: “Manifesting divine powers across the four seas, immortal through the ages; receiving imperial titles through dynasties, her glory lasts forever.”
The second courtyard of the Leizhou Tianhou Palace features a flush-gable roof with a lifted-beam framework, connected to a 3-meter-deep roll-roofed corridor in the front, with side rooms on both sides. The front hall enshrines the Eight Deities to offer assistance, all with vivid and spirited statues.
The third courtyard is the main hall, three bays wide and three bays deep. On both sides stand Thousand-Mile Eyes (General Jin), Wind-Following Ears (General Liu), and the Four Generals, serving as guardians, each with unique and imposing appearances. In the center of the main hall is a resplendent wooden carved pavilion housing seven beautifully radiant and graceful female golden statues. The front row of three consists of soft-bodied golden statues of Mazu and her two sisters, which can be carried out by devotees in palanquins for processions and temple festivals. The second row of three are hard-bodied golden statues of Mazu and her sisters, while the back one is Mazu’s own golden statue. All these statues are lifelike, exquisitely crafted.
Inside the temple are Qing Dynasty murals, with railings carved with birds, beasts, flowers, insects, and fish—all vivid and lifelike, demonstrating high artistic craftsmanship. There are also numerous plaques, couplets, and stone inscriptions, a dazzling array including four Ming Dynasty steles, twelve Qing Dynasty steles, and one Republic of China wooden plaque, all of great value for appreciation and research. Deng Zongling, a scholar of the Ming Dynasty’s Wanli era, wrote in a restoration stele: “Looking around, one sees vast fields of mulberry and hemp; overlooking the great river, thousands of sails appear and disappear. The sounds of oars echo, with woodcutters, herders, travelers, and tourists treading softly over mossy stones and clear waters, hidden yet visible amidst the green mist and bamboo groves—it is truly a magnificent sight.”
The temple caretaker explains: The Leizhou Peninsula is surrounded by sea on three sides, with many fishermen and seafarers, so the public deeply worships Tianhou. Tianhou temples are found everywhere, with more than ten large and small temples in Leicheng alone, and many households even enshrine her within their own homes. Commonly called “Popo” (Granny). Around Jingweipo in Yangjia Town, three days before the birthday of “Popo” (the 23rd day of the third lunar month), people of all ages eat vegetarian. On the 23rd, up to 100,000 gather at Jingweipo for the temple fair, parading and worshipping Mazu—an exceptionally lively event that continues to this day. According to the “Leizhou Prefecture Records” and “Haikang County Records”: “The Tianhou Temple, also known as Longying Palace, is located by the Xiajiang Bridge south of the city. It is the oldest temple, with the most efficacious deity. Officials stationed in Leizhou would visit to offer incense on the first and fifteenth of each month, none daring to neglect it. Officials passing through Qiongzhou or merchants shipping by sea would pray here. Whenever facing storms, calling her name would bring response, often revealing her divine presence amid huge waves to ensure safety. The locals hold her in especially high esteem, treating her with utmost reverence. They offer fragrant incense and also build shrines in her honor.” The caretaker also recounts various legends vividly. A legend from Leizhou tells of the Qing Dynasty Qianlong era, when fisherman Deng Feiwu from the suburbs encountered a powerful typhoon while fishing at sea, with his boat on the verge of sinking. In desperation, Deng had a sudden idea and prayed to the Tianhou enshrined on the boat, kowtowing and begging for help. Suddenly, a girl in red appeared faintly in the sky, approaching the boat slowly, followed by a beam of light shining around the vessel, calming the waters and allowing the boat to glide smoothly as if on flat land, escaping danger.
The Leizhou Tianhou Palace enjoys a tranquil environment and beautiful scenery. Facing vast paddy fields and backed by the ancient Leizhou harbor on the Nan Du River, the largest river in Leizhou, its tributary Xia River winds through 36 bends to Han Gong Bridge in front of the temple. Boats glide along, water and sky merging into one, offering a uniquely charming view. It is a highly desirable tourist attraction. Overseas Chinese and compatriots from Hong Kong and Macau from Leizhou always visit the Leizhou Tianhou Palace, offer incense, and worship Mazu whenever they return home for travel or family visits.
The Leizhou Tianhou Palace is a key cultural relic protection unit in our city. Plans are to expand it to cover a total area of 800 mu, turning it into a “Tianhou Culture Park.” Restoration will include the Seaview Tower, Wind-Rain Pavilion, Bell and Drum Tower, with new additions such as a cultural square, Mazu stone statue, lakeside embankment, hotel, theater stage, tea house, small commodity market, pavilions, and waterside gazebos—creating a water-themed park with Leizhou characteristics, adding a beautiful new tourist attraction to this historic and cultural city.
Lin Mo (960–987) Lin Mo, also known as Momo, was affectionately called “Auntie,” “Goddess Mother,” or “Mazu” by the people. She was from Putian. Born on the 23rd day of the third lunar month in the first year of the Jianlong era (960 AD) of the Song Dynasty in Meizhou Isle, Putian County, into an official’s family. She never cried even after a full month following birth, hence named “Mo,” also called “Momo.” Her great-grandfather Baoji served in the Zhou Dynasty as a military commander but resigned and lived in seclusion on Meizhou. Her grandfather Fu inherited his ancestor’s merit and served as the Fujian Governor. Her father Yuan held the position of Fujian Patrol Inspector in the early Song Dynasty. Momo was extremely intelligent; at eight she could grasp the gist of texts while studying under a tutor. As she grew older, she loved chanting scriptures and practicing Buddhism. She was skilled in medicine, often treating illnesses and teaching disease prevention and disaster avoidance. She was also well-versed... More+
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