The stone plaque above the main gate is inlaid with four golden, vigorous, and powerful characters: “Nanhe Wudang” (Southern Harmony Wudang), set against a roof covered with green glazed tiles, decorated with eaves carved with exotic flowers and plants, and framed by deep red outer walls. Bathed in the morning glow, it shines brilliantly, adding vibrant colors to Leizhou, a national historical and cultural city.
Ascending the steps and standing in front of the hall, when you look back, you’ll see it stands atop a height, with the Xiahe Li area to its left, Sulu Alley to its right, overlooking Nanting Street, and gazing toward the Nandu River — a truly majestic sight.
On both sides of the gate is a couplet: “The virtuous Kou first built this hall to guide the people in martial arts after acquiring a fallen meteorite; the scholar Su visited famous mountains and lived near this temple to cultivate literature while thinking of the nation.” This couplet explains the origin of this historic site and praises Kou Zhun and the Su brothers (Su Shi and Su Zhe).
Stepping inside the hall and looking back, you will see four bold and powerful characters: “Taihe Yiyue” (Great Harmony as One Mountain). This plaque was originally inscribed by Chen Qiaosen, one of the Four Great Talents of Lingnan in the Qing Dynasty and a successful candidate in the imperial examinations from Leizhou. What does “Taihe Yiyue” mean? In ancient times, the harmonious union of yin and yang, the vital energy, was called Taihe. “Taihe” means the Dao (the Way). Thus, “Taihe Yiyue” refers to a lofty mountain of Taoism.
Ascending to the second floor, you will see the “Guanyin Pavilion.” On both sides of the pavilion hang a couplet written by Chen [character missing], a Jinshi (advanced scholar) of the Qing Kangxi era, Governor of Fujian, and one of the Three Honest Officials of Lingnan: “Divinely inspired by nature, innately loyal and righteous — we speak of Confucius and Guan Yu; in governance, literature is used; in quelling chaos, martial force — one from Shandong, one from Shanxi.” Why is a “Guanyin Pavilion” inscribed with “Confucius and Guan Yu”? Upon closer inspection, you’ll find that apart from enshrining the sixteen-armed Goddess of Mercy (Guanyin), this pavilion also houses Confucius, the God of Literature (Wenchang Dijun), and the God of War (Guan Yu). The convergence of the Three Teachings (Confucianism, Buddhism, and Taoism) in one place is truly rare among national historic sites. Generally, these teachings are kept distinct elsewhere, but Leizhou’s Temple of the True Martial Emperor breaks the norm by uniting them under one roof — truly unique.
After touring the upper floor, descend to the lower level, where stone inscriptions prompt deep reflection: the image of the upright and incorruptible chancellor Kou Zhun, who “had the rank of a high official but did not build a mansion,” emerges before you — unyielding, fearless of power, and deeply concerned for the people’s welfare. His presence commands profound respect.
In the first year of the Qiánxīng era of the Song Dynasty (1022), Kou Zhun, chancellor to Emperor Zhenzong, was framed by the treacherous minister Ding Wei and Empress Liu. First demoted to Sima (a low official rank) in Daozhou, he was then further banished to Leizhou as a Sihu Canjun (a minor clerical post). Kou Zhun departed Daozhou in February of that year and arrived in Leizhou in April. A newcomer unfamiliar with the place, although a demoted official, the populace revered him for his past status as chancellor, admired his fame, and respected his virtues and achievements, all willing to lend him their homes. However, Ding Wei, who saw Kou as a thorn in his side, was determined to destroy him. He instructed local henchmen to imprison those who offered Kou shelter. From then on, no one dared to house him. Not allowed to stay in official quarters or private homes, Kou was forced to move with his family to the western lodge (now West Lake Park) of the Tianning Temple, which was still wilderness at the time. Life at the western lodge was desolate, as evidenced by his poem: “The wind and dew are cold, the western lodge silent; quietly I sigh, lost in memories. The sea clouds disperse, the golden waves grow cold, alone at midnight I lean on the rail.” Fortunately, Heaven had eyes — three months later, in July of that year, Ding Wei was also demoted to Yazhou. Only then did the local officials look upon Kou more favorably and allow him to move back to the urban area, to Guihua Fang (now near the Temple of the True Martial Emperor).
In the eighth month of the first year of the Tiānshèng era (1023), one night, a “fallen star” dropped into the pond in front of his residence. While meteorites are a natural phenomenon, people at the time believed it was a heavenly calamity and fervently prayed with incense. The next day, Kou ordered the pond drained and retrieved a gleaming black meteorite. Based on its black color and turtle-like shape, he instructed that a temple be built on the spot where it landed — the “Xuanwu Hall.” “Xuanwu” is the collective name for the seven northern constellations, including Dou, Niu, Nü, Xu, Wei, Shi, and Bi, which resemble a turtle. Xuanwu, often depicted as a turtle entwined with a snake, is the god of the north in ancient Chinese mythology, later revered in Taoism. To avoid the naming taboo of Emperor Taizu of Song (Zhao Xuanlang), the character “Xuan” was changed to “Zhen” (True), thus renaming the hall from “Xuanwu Hall” to “True Martial Temple” (真武堂).
Kou Zhun spent 18 months in Leizhou. His dedication to the nation never waned, and he exhausted his efforts doing much good for the Leizhou people. He developed water conservancy projects and spread Central Plains culture, earning deep affection from the locals. Tragically, his years of exile took a toll on his health, both physically and mentally, and he eventually fell ill in his residence at Guihua Fang. The once-mighty figure who had commanded a million troops at the Battle of Chanyuan, served as chancellor multiple times, and wielded immense power passed away in Leizhou in the intercalary ninth month of the first year of Tiānshèng. The Leizhou people, in mourning, wept as they escorted his coffin back to his burial place in Luoyang (the Western Capital). Later, they solemnly erected a memorial shrine and statue for him by the lakeside of Luo Lake (West Lake).
Legend has it that when Kou Zhun’s wife, Lady Song (daughter of Song Wo), and the Leizhou people were escorting his coffin to a ferry at Shentang in Leizhou, dark clouds suddenly gathered and torrential rain poured down. Everyone had to stop and lay the coffin down, inserting the bamboo poles used for carrying it into the ground to support it. The next day, the rain cleared, and to everyone’s surprise, the bamboo poles had sprouted new shoots. To commemorate the virtuous chancellor, the ferry was named “Kouzhu Ferry.”
Entering the west wing, known as the “Second Hall of the Two Virtuous Men of Kou Zhun,” you’ll find many poems, couplets, and paintings. Among them is a couplet: “The relics of Chancellor Kou leave behind an eternal spirit of integrity in this ancient district; the former site of Sulu Lane sees the people admire a generation of noble sages,” praising Kou Zhun and the Su brothers.
Passing through this hall and entering the garden behind the main structure, you’ll see a rockery entwined with a colorful golden dragon. The dragon raises its head with piercing eyes. Beside the rockery is a “release pond” where many “sacred turtles” are kept. At the foot of the rockery lies a stone cave called the “Primeval Cave.” It is said that this cave once housed “thousand-year-old turtles” and black snakes, though they have now vanished. Beyond the rockery is a “moon gate” inscribed with the characters “Xianzong” (Traces of the Virtuous). Exiting through the back gate leads you to Sulu Alley. The back gate is inscribed with “Sulu Academy,” and on its sides is a couplet: “The Dao enlightens thirty thousand students of Leiyang; grace spreads to the seaside region, a master teacher of a generation,” praising the great Song Dynasty literary figure Su Shi and his younger brother Su Zhe.
Since its construction nearly 1,000 years ago, the Temple of the True Martial Emperor has undergone several changes and renovations. During the Jianyan era of Emperor Gaozong of the Song Dynasty (1127–1130), the military governor of Leizhou relocated the temple from its location near the marketplace to Tianqing Temple, citing the former as inappropriate. Tianqing Temple was located north of the Bell Tower in Leicheng, adjacent to the City God Temple. After the relocation, examinees repeatedly failed to achieve success in the imperial exams, drawing widespread public dissatisfaction. In the 11th year of the Shaoxing era (1141), Hu Zongdao, the military governor of Leizhou, moved the temple back to its original site — the present-day Temple of the True Martial Emperor. By the Jingtai era of Emperor Jing of the Ming Dynasty (1450–1456), the temple had fallen into disrepair. In the first year of the Wanli era (1573), a local villager named Huang Pu led the community in renovating it. In the 32nd year of Wanli (1604), Chen Jin, a student, and others pooled funds for another restoration. The next day, Chen Jin and He Qilong, a successful candidate in the imperial examinations, built a stone archway in front of the temple, inscribed with “Nanhe Wudang.” “Nanhe” is the ancient name for Leizhou, so “Nanhe Wudang” means “Leizhou’s Wudang Mountain.”
In 1989, with the winds of reform and opening-up blowing across the nation, Cai Chunnian and others initiated a fundraising campaign for renovation. The project received funding from the Guangdong Provincial Department of Culture and the People’s Government of Leizhou City. After the renovation, the temple took on a completely renewed appearance, attracting countless domestic and international visitors. People came in droves, filled with reverence to follow in the footsteps of the virtuous and pursue the wisdom of the sages. They lingered for a long time, sighed with emotion, and left with frequent backward glances…
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