Ancient Residences in Leizhou

　　Walking along a winding village path that is almost entirely green into Bangtang Village feels like stepping into a world of greenery. Located in the suburbs and far from the hustle and bustle, the village offers serene pastoral scenery. Even in the sweltering heat of July, a gentle breeze brings cool relief. Green bamboo sways in the wind, while old banyan trees provide lush shade, full of vitality without any sign of aging. Under the banyans, slabs of bluestone are laid out for people to sit or lie on. After years of wear, their edges are smoothed yet they remain here, welcoming visitors.

　　The lanes in Bangtang Village are uniquely laid out — the horizontal main lanes are not straight, while the vertical alleys are perfectly aligned. At the entrance of South Bangtang Village, there are two well-preserved lanes that stretch deep into the greenery. These lanes are a must-see when visiting Bangtang’s residences, as they best represent the architectural style of the Qing Dynasty. At the entrances of the lanes are gate towers — one called “Zhonghe” (Harmony), the other “Lianrang” (Honesty and Modesty). The strict systems of the Qing Dynasty are reflected in these gates, showcasing traditional clan ideologies. The outward closure and inward openness also bear witness to the unrest of those times. Passing through the gates, you’ll see rows of houses on both sides of the lanes. The houses are built along the slope from low to high, with steps between every few buildings — you need to climb steps going up, but can simply walk through the gates horizontally.

　　The main doors of the houses all face the lanes and are arranged in an orderly fashion. The doors are located on the left side of the central hall, commonly known as the “Green Dragon Gate.” The interior height of the houses is considerable, with door heights exceeding five feet. Due to the long, hot summers in the south, higher ceilings allow better ventilation — a principle followed by ancient builders. Tall walls and deep courtyards not only appear imposing but also enhance security. Perhaps for this reason, the largest houses in both lanes were built by Li Guangzu.

　　Li Guangzu once served as an education official in Hainan during the Xianfeng to Tongzhi reigns of the Qing Dynasty. All five of his sons later held various official positions. His fifth son, Li Yunlong, served as a sixth-rank official in Penglai County, Shandong Province. His grandson, Li Yuanling, also held a probationary fifth-rank position as Tongzhi in Guangxi. Their residence is located in the middle of the “Lianrang” lane — a large, luxurious mansion. Simple and elegant, neat and orderly, it consists of over 70 rooms, making it feel like a maze upon entry. Various courtyards are interconnected yet can also be sectioned off, demonstrating a rigorous layout with versatile usage. The decorative scope of the houses is also extensive. Decorative art techniques are applied to gables, roof ridges, doors and windows, screen walls, beams, screens, wooden partitions, shrines, and eaves boards, enhancing them from different angles. The designs are simple, with an appropriate balance of bold and subtle elements.

　　Standing in front of the gate of the Cishi Residence, I ran my hand along the stone doorframe carved from bluestone and admired the screen decoration featuring cranes soaring amid auspicious clouds — the exceptional artistry was truly breathtaking.

　　Wandering through the lanes of ancient Bangtang Village, you’ll never run out of grand old houses or interesting anecdotes. Bangtang Village has an extraordinary history. Blessed with a rich cultural atmosphere and remarkable people, it nurtured the widely renowned Li Shaoyi. A successful candidate in the imperial examinations during the Tongzhi era, Li Shaoyi once taught at the Junyuan Academy in Haikang and the Guisheng Academy in Xuwen. Many outstanding scholars in the Leizhou Peninsula during the Tongzhi and Guangxu periods were his students. Li Shaoyi also served as the commander for city wall construction and seawall repairs. He oversaw the renovation of the County Shrine and the Filial Piety Memorial Hall. He believed in educating all without discrimination, and sponsored many underprivileged but studious scholars. Li Shaoyi made significant contributions to the development of education and culture in Leizhou.

　　Li Jinxi, who became a Jinshi (successful imperial examination graduate) in the 16th year of the Guangxu reign, is another notable figure from Bangtang Village. He was appointed as a Hanlin Bachelor by imperial decree. During his service in the capital, the Qing government was weak and corrupt, with politics at an all-time low. In 1900, when the Eight-Nation Alliance invaded Beijing, the Qing government did not resist, allowing the invaders to loot and burn freely. Empress Dowager Cixi fled the city, and officials scattered like birds and beasts. Yet Li Jinxi stayed behind, unafraid of the invaders. On one occasion, he was beaten bloody by foreign soldiers for refusing to bow to them. Other local figures remembered in Bangtang include Li Bonian, a fifth-rank official who served as an Extra Official in the Ministry of Revenue, and Li Ruijian, a sixth-rank official in the same role.

　　“Architecture is frozen music.” The ancient residences of Bangtang Village are a piece of frozen music in Leizhou’s ancient architectural culture. When we tire of the noisy urban life or seek a break from work and study, why not venture out to visit Bangtang’s ancient houses, admire the crystallization of our ancestors’ wisdom, and experience the artistic charm of traditional folk architecture?