The Luohe River, which winds through the entire territory of Luonan, has its source gorge located on the main ridge of the Qinling Mountains. The valley is deep with fast-flowing water, surrounded by soaring peaks and dense forests that block out the sunlight, while clear springs gush at the bottom and waterfalls splash around. To view the gorge landscape, visitors can only reach Longtan at the mouth of the valley. Going deeper is blocked by sheer cliffs and plunging waterfalls.
To explore this rarely visited source gorge of the Luohe River, I once went there with companions. Our group parked our car in Heizhang Village, Luoyuan Town, and started walking, taking a ridge path along the right bank of the Luohe River. After passing “Qili Gang (Seven-Li Ridge)” and “Bali Po (Eight-Li Slope),” we arrived at Caolian Ridge, the highest peak in Luonan County—the top of the Luohe River Gorge and the source of the Luohe River.
At the top of the Luohe River Gorge, distant peaks are layered with clouds and mist; up close, rugged rocks surge wildly toward the sky. The small stream at the source of the Luohe River murmurs and trickles over colorful pebbles at the base of Huashilang. After flowing gently for several li, it finally reveals itself beneath some huge rocks and foamy waves near several fresh, dewy trees. This spot is called Jishuitan (Water-Drawing Pool). Cupping a handful of the spring water feels ice-cold to the bone, but taking a sip reveals its cool, sweet taste. Below Jishuitan, the source stream disappears again into dense forest and rocky terrain, leaving no trace.
Descending seven or eight li away from the stream and emerging from the shaded forest, we reached an open area on a ridge, offering a bird’s-eye view of the Luohe River Gorge winding deeply through the dense woods below. We hacked through bushes, crawled and climbed down thousands of meters into the gorge, where we saw fast-flowing waterfalls and connected pools, with emerald-green moss covering the surrounding boulders. Unwilling and afraid to step on the slippery, moss-covered rocks, we carefully chose stones smoothed by rushing waves or darkened by fierce mountain winds to scramble over. Several hours later, a waterfall more than ten feet high, with a large pool at its base, blocked our path downstream along the river valley. Trying to descend via the steep slopes on either side proved futile after several attempts. With no other options, we had to climb up the gentler slope on the left side of the gorge. Upon reaching the mountainside, we moved horizontally to bypass steep cliffs and deep valleys. After more than an hour of climbing and the sky gradually darkening, we still couldn’t see the Longtan (Dragon Pool) that people usually ascend via the gorge. Growing anxious, we had no choice but to climb over one mountain hollow after another. To ease our anxiety and fear, I shouted occasionally as I led the way. After descending a few hollows, we guessed that heading down one of them might lead to the valley-bottom Longtan. We stopped to discuss, then decided to go down and check. One companion slid down to the valley floor, spotted the Longtan, and excitedly called out. Those above on the cliffs were overjoyed, and everyone cheered as they climbed or slid down one after another. After resting briefly, we continued down the gorge to Heizhang Village where we had parked the car, and returned by car as dusk fell.
Our group climbed along the right ridge of the Luohe River Gorge to Caolian Ridge, descended into the gorge, then climbed up to the left mountainside of the gorge, descended again to the Longtan at the bottom of the gorge, and followed the gorge downstream back to the parking spot. We traversed the Luohe River Gorge, tracing an elliptical path on foot, taking nearly 10 hours to explore its magnificent and marvelous scenery—a truly memorable adventure.
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