Huaian Crabs

Huaian Crabs

　　1. Fermented Crab Fermenting crabs in sauce is the most economical and long-lasting traditional method devised by lakeside communities. It’s also an authentic local specialty. To make fermented crab, first prepare a batch of broad bean paste during the plum rain season. After the Dog Days (the hottest period of summer), seal the fermentation jar, and then open it on the Double Ninth Festival. Dig a shallow hollow in the sauce to allow soy sauce to seep out. Place cleaned crabs into the soy sauce and let them crawl into the sauce. Seal the jar, and after half a month, the crabs are ready to eat. A single jar of fermented crabs can last until the next year. Enjoy them with wine, crabs, and noodles. This economical and convenient dish of noodles with fermented crabs may be “common” in appearance and “rustic” in flavor—like a simple folk tune that’s sincere and delightful—but it surpasses the “original taste” of the crab itself.

　　2. Drunken Crab The “exotic charm” of crabs can be found in the elegant and luxurious Drunken Crab. There are two types: “commercial-style” and “homemade-style.” Their flavors differ, as do their preparation methods.

　　For mass production, first select a sufficient number of female crabs of uniform size and temporarily rear them in large underwater bamboo crates. This helps them expel any plant seeds or residue in their stomachs and clean their leg hairs. Once everything is ready, the crabs are harvested. Before submerging them, the workers making the drunken crabs drink realgar wine to warm up and ward off the cold—otherwise, they risk freezing in the icy water. After the crabs are dried, they are placed into a large jar filled with a solution of rice wine, fried salt, Sichuan peppercorn, fennel, and other ingredients in specific proportions. They are added until the last crab can no longer float on its own. Once the jar is sealed, the world-renowned “Drunken Crab” is complete. Of course, the precise formula ratios, solution density, and temperature control methods are closely guarded secrets.

　　For the homemade version, take two bottles of high-quality Yangzhou soy sauce, two bottles of premium Shuanggou aged liquor, fry some Sichuan peppercorn salt, chop some ginger and scallions, and grind some cinnamon and fennel. Then, clean and dry a large syringe, and thoroughly wash and dry a “black fish head” jar. Scrape the leg hairs off the prepared crabs, clean and air-dry them, then inject three to five qian (approx. 10–17 grams) of liquor beneath the navel of each crab. Stack them in the jar, pour the seasonings over them, seal with parchment paper, and then coat the top with a layer of yellow mud. After some time has passed, the crabs are ready to eat.

　　Drunken crabs are addictive once you try them. The golden crab roe, after being “drunken,” turns into a shiny, dark green, oily paste. Scoop out a bit with chopsticks, and the aroma of liquor wafts up. When you open the jar for the second time, you’ll start salivating even before the scent hits you. By the third time, the mere sight of the “drunken” crab sends your soul soaring—the flavor lies entirely in the word “drunken,” which transforms the crab into something indescribable and deeply memorable.

　　Apart from their deliciousness, crabs also have remarkable medicinal value. They can dispel heat, invigorate stomach qi, regulate meridians, relieve stuffiness, benefit the limbs, and aid digestion—making them an exceptional food that also offers medicinal benefits. However, the true value of crabs also lies in their seasonality.

　　(Huaian)