White Soup Blackfish · General Crossing the Bridge

White Soup Blackfish · General Crossing the Bridge

　　White Soup Blackfish refers to blackfish in milk soup and is one of the traditional famous dishes of Huai'an, Jiangsu. The main ingredient of White Soup Blackfish is blackfish, a common freshwater fish favored by locals in Huai'an. Blackfish is fierce and carnivorous — when other fish see it, they “retreat three miles,” hence it is often nicknamed “General” by the people. There is also a legend that blackfish is a general of the Dragon Palace, which is why it is called “General.” This fish has thick skin, great strength, and strong vitality. When ponds dry up, it burrows into the mud head-up, leaving a small hole to breathe, and can survive for months. When heavy rain comes and the water rises, softening the mud, it drills out again, thus earning the name “living fish.” Because of its dark color and black spots on its body, it is also called blackfish or firewood-head fish; further, due to the seven small white dots (i.e., seven holes) on its head, it is also known as “Seven-Star Fish.” It has always been said that Yangzhou cuisine features a dish called “General Crossing the Bridge,” which is widely renowned. The “General” refers to the blackfish; “Crossing the Bridge” means transferring the dish from the original soup bowl to another bowl, like a person crossing a bridge to reach the other side. As mentioned by Li Dou of the Qing Dynasty in his "Record of the Painted Pleasure Boats of Yangzhou," this involves what is called “half soup.” In Yangzhou’s version, “General Crossing the Bridge” consists of the blackfish meat made into stir-fried fish slices, while the fish skin, bones, and intestines are blanched in boiling water to remove the fishy smell, then simmered in clear water with ginger, scallions, Shaoxing wine, and lard over low heat to make the soup. With both soup and dish, it is thus called “General Crossing the Bridge.” Additionally, because the bowl of fish soup symbolizes the “river” and a fish bone represents the “bridge,” the name “General Crossing the Bridge” was derived. This combination of one dish and one soup, one fish prepared in two ways, is not only delicious but also cost-effective. However, the white soup in Huai-style cuisine is truly deserving of its name. The preparation also includes one dish and one soup, one fish in two preparations. But instead of stir-fried fish slices, the dish is the whole, neatly presented white-braised fish. A live blackfish is first stunned by striking its head with the back of a knife, then its scales, gills, and internal organs are removed, and the bones are extracted so that the belly sides of the two fillets remain connected. Diagonal knife marks are made on the flesh side to allow the fish meat to curl into an arched bridge shape. Together with the fish bones and intestines, it is briefly blanched in boiling water, then cooked with ginger, scallions, Shaoxing wine, and fat over high heat until boiling, then simmered over medium heat to keep the soup bubbling. Through the interaction of water, oil, and fish, the fats emulsify, resulting in a milky-white fish soup. Thus, the white-braised fish becomes the “bridge,” the fish bone and intestinal broth becomes the “river,” and the “General” “crosses the bridge.” When served, the arched fish meat is placed on a plate, and the milky-white fish soup along with the bones and intestines are served in a bowl. The finished dish features snow-white, tender, and fluffy fish meat, smooth and fragrant fish soup, and a rich, milky flavor that is delicious. The fish can be eaten with wine, and the soup complements meals. Its aroma is rich, the taste mellow, and it is highly nutritious. Eating it with a bit of balsamic vinegar and minced ginger adds a special flavor. Blackfish is especially delicious when cooked whole, fresh, and served immediately. (Huaiyin)