Tianjin Black Beans

Tianjin Black Beans

　　Tianjin has a local snack called “Black Beans,” which are actually boiled spiced fava beans, also known as fennel beans. It’s said that among the old Tianjin locals, the best “Black Beans” come from Tianmu Village. There’s also a folk tale that goes like this: Legend has it that Emperor Qianlong, traveling incognito along the Grand Canal on a southern tour, docked his boat at Muzhuangzi (now known as “Tianmu Village”) north of Tianjin city. He disembarked and passed by a shop, where he was enticed by a delicious aroma. The shopkeeper, wearing a white prayer cap, greeted him with a smile and served him steaming hot sprouted black beans on a lotus leaf. After tasting them, Qianlong praised them highly. Even after returning from his southern tour, he still craved them and invited the shop owner, Mr. Mu, to the palace to exclusively prepare sprouted black beans for him. They became a staple of his breakfast, eventually turning into a court delicacy. This is said to be the origin of Tianjin’s “Black Beans.”

　　     Some insist that this dish of boiled beans should actually be called “Wu Dou” (literally “smothered beans”), because they were traditionally sold in a wooden basin covered with a cotton lid—the hotter and more tightly covered, the stronger the aroma, hence the name “smothered beans.” This might make sense, but according to the tone sandhi rules of the Tianjin dialect, “Wu Dou” would inevitably shift to the low, flat tone of “Black Beans.” Sticking with the actual pronunciation, “Black Beans” is certainly not a bad choice.

　　     In fact, the name “Black Beans” wasn’t chosen at random either. In the traditional storytelling piece and drum ballad “Romance of the Western Chamber,” the character Yingying sings: “If Madam finds out, please don’t be afraid—there’s no need for us to fight over this lawsuit, except for one thing that feels rather pitiful—black beans with noodle soup, and a lumpy pillow leaking a bit of chaff!” So let’s follow Miss Yingying’s words and call them “Black Beans.” Doesn’t that add even more cultural flavor?