Hongze Small Fish Pancakes

Hongze Small Fish Pancakes

　　“Live Fish Pancakes,” referred to by fishermen as “Small Fish Pancake Collapse,” is a unique and renowned dish created by fishermen on Hongze Lake through long-term life on the water, drawing from various lake-influenced eating habits. The origins of “Small Fish Pancake Collapse” date back to ancient times and it has long enjoyed a great reputation. Legend has it that in his childhood, the Ming Dynasty’s founding emperor Zhu Yuanzhang, during years of famine and hardship, fled to the banks of the Huai River. When he gathered with other poor children—those who caught fish, herded cattle, cut grass, or begged for food—they pooled whatever they had managed to get. They boiled the small fish (caught by hand as they had no fishing gear) in a pot, and around the edge of the pot, they stuck pancakes made from mixed flour (begged from others) or crushed wormwood and rice flour picked from the lake. This quick and simple method of cooking filled their stomachs. Though the method was primitive, the resulting dish was crispy, fragrant, tender, and delicious. It gradually became a common meal for fishermen on the lake and farmers along its shores, and was called “Small Fish Pancake Collapse.” After Zhu Yuanzhang became emperor, he grew tired of the elaborate court banquets and specifically asked for fishermen’s wives to be brought to the palace to make this “Small Fish Pancake Collapse” for him. From then on, this way of eating was called “Three Delicacies (sweet lake water, tender lake fish, and fragrant lake grass seeds) Small Fish Pancakes” in the palace, and “Emperor’s Pancakes” or “Zhu Family Meals” among the people. After Zhu Yuanzhang passed away, the dish gradually disappeared from the palace but continued to be passed down among the common folk.

　　Authentic “Small Fish Pancake Collapse” from the local fishermen features “small fish,” usually just one or two inches in length. The pot is an iron one, which cooks quickly over high heat. The dough is mixed thin and tends to sag and “collapse” when stuck to the sides of the pot, resulting in a bottom that is thin and a top that is thick—hence the name “pancake collapse.” The traditional method involves using freshly caught small fish, which are cleaned, scaled, gutted, and then cooked in the clear water of the lake. Meanwhile, a batter is prepared and spread as thin pancakes around the edges of the pot, flat against the water or submerged halfway. As the fire heats the water to a boil, the broth splashes everywhere, so the edges of the cooked pancakes are coated with fish soup. The moment the lid is lifted, the aroma of the fish-infused pancakes and the pancake-scented fish wafts through the air. The “small fish” are small yet bursting with freshness; the “pancake collapse” features crispy pancakes with rich flavor; the “fish soup” is delicious and refreshing. Dipping the “pancake collapse” into the fish soup while enjoying the fresh taste of the “small fish” gives a sensation of tender fish, juicy meat, savory soup, and crispy pancakes—enough to make anyone’s mouth water and praise the dish. All of this is just a common meal for the fishermen on the lake—not only time-saving and convenient, but also combining “meal and side dish in one pot.” Nowadays, whenever close friends or relatives visit the fishermen’s boats, this dish is often served during breakfast or dinner, especially around areas such as Linhuai, Ban Cheng, Shang Zui, Laozi Mountain, and Qian Ma.

　　Nowadays, what originated as “Small Fish Pancake Collapse” is called “Live Fish Pancakes” by the locals. The term “live fish” caters to modern dietary preferences where “live means fresh,” and “fresh attracts diners.” The fish are no longer “small fish” but often larger ones. The pot is no longer an iron one either. And the batter is no longer stuck to the pan to “collapse” but spread along the edges, becoming uniformly thin—thus called “pancakes.” The “Small Fish Pancake Collapse” has evolved into “Live Fish Pancakes.” Upon closer thought, this evolution makes sense, as it adapts to changing times and dietary structures.

　　In recent years, “Live Fish Pancakes” have seen further development. The traditional “one-pot meal” style is now rarely used. Typically, the “pancakes” and the “live fish” are cooked separately. The “pancakes” are no longer stuck to the pot but spread as thin “pancakes” along the edges. More refined versions may include sesame seeds, shredded radish, or use alternative flours like cornmeal or sorghum flour to create different flavors of “pancakes.” Some coat the “pancakes” with “fish soup” before eating, while others dip them into the soup during the meal—offering both the original essence and new flavors. Holding a crispy “pancake,” dipped in rich “fish soup,” you’ll feel an endless sense of the joys of life. Even as the feast draws to a close, your delight remains undiminished, and even if you’re a thousand miles from home, you’ll be reluctant to leave. However, if you have the leisure, do visit a fishing boat on Hongze Lake or a fisherman’s home along its shores to try the true taste of “Small Fish Pancake Collapse”—that is the authentic, genuine “Live Fish Pancakes”!