Huai'an Crabs

Huai'an Crabs

　　1. Fermented Crab

　　Fermenting crabs is the most economical and long-lasting traditional method devised by lakeside dwellers. It is also an authentic local specialty. To make fermented crabs, the first step is to prepare a basin of broad bean paste during the plum rain season. After the Dog Days, seal the paste jar, and unseal it on the Double Ninth Festival. Dig a small hollow in the paste to allow soy sauce to seep out. Place cleaned crabs into the soy sauce, letting them crawl into the paste. Seal the jar, and after half a month, they are ready to eat. A jar of fermented crabs can last until the next year. Enjoy them while drinking wine, savoring the crabs, and eating noodles. This economical, delicious, and convenient dish of fermented crab noodles may look “rustic” and taste “earthy,” like a simple and rich folk melody full of charm—surpassing even the crab’s “natural” flavor.

　　2. Drunken Crab

　　The “exotic charm” of crabs is best represented by the elegant and luxurious Drunken Crab. Drunken crabs can be divided into “commercial-style” and “homestyle.” Their flavors differ, and their preparation methods vary greatly.

　　For mass production, first select a sufficient number of female crabs of uniform size and temporarily rear them in large underwater bamboo cages. The goal is to purge any plant seeds and debris from their stomachs and clean off any leg hair. Once all preparations are complete, the crabs are harvested. Before immersing them in liquid, the workers making the drunken crabs drink realgar wine to warm up and guard against the cold—otherwise, there's a risk of freezing in the bone-chilling water. After the crabs are dried, they are placed into a large jar filled with a solution of rice wine, fried salt, Sichuan peppercorns, and fennel in specific proportions. This continues until the last crab can no longer float on its own. Once the jar is sealed, it becomes the world-renowned “Drunken Crab.” Of course, the precise formula ratios, solution density, and temperature control methods are closely guarded secrets.

　　The homestyle version of Drunken Crab uses two bottles of premium Yangzhou soy sauce, two bottles of high-quality Shuanggou aged liquor, some fried salted Sichuan pepper, chopped ginger and scallions, ground cinnamon and fennel, along with a large syringe. Clean and dry a “black fish head” jar. Scrape the leg hair off the prepared crabs, wash and air-dry them, then inject three to five qian (a traditional unit of weight) of liquor beneath each crab’s abdomen. Stack them in the jar, pour over the seasonings, seal with oiled paper, and coat the top with a layer of yellow mud. After some time, they’re ready to eat.

　　Drunken crab is addictive once you try it. The golden crab roe, after being “drunken,” turns into a shiny, pitch-black paste-like substance. Scoop up a bit with chopsticks, and the aroma of alcohol wafts up. When you open the jar for the second time, you’ll start salivating before even smelling the alcohol. By the third time, the mere sight of the “drunken” crab is soul-stirring—the flavor lies entirely in the magical transformation brought by the “drunken” process, a complex taste that’s truly indescribable.

　　Apart from their delicious taste, crabs also have remarkable medicinal value—they can clear heat, invigorate stomach qi, regulate meridians, relieve stuffiness, benefit limbs and joints, and aid digestion, making them a rare delicacy with health benefits. However, the true value of crabs also lies in their seasonality.