Plain noodles in broth

Plain noodles in broth

　　For locals of Shanghai or those who have lived in the city, the mouthwatering flavor etched in memory isn’t some exotic delicacy or fresh seafood, but the humble plain noodles in broth.

　　The term “plain noodles in broth” originally referred to a type of noodle soup served without any toppings, known as “clear broth with plain noodles.” It was one of the most common and affordable noodle dishes (and could also serve as a staple food) in old Shanghai. Later, due to merchants and others avoiding inauspicious words like “clear” and “bare,” someone with a knack for wordplay took the name “Yangchun” (meaning “pure spring”) from the ancient musical piece “Yangchun Baixue” (Pure Spring and White Snow), and renamed the dish “plain noodles in broth.” It has since become one of the signature snacks of Shanghai, holding a place in the hearts of locals just like pan-fried buns and spiced beans. I remember reading the Japanese author Tetsuko Kuroyanagi’s story “A Bowl of Noodles in Broth” back in middle school. From then on, I’ve had a positive impression of these noodles because they embody family bonds, unity, struggle, and perseverance. Later, I discovered that plain noodles in broth are more than just a simple dish—the flavors within them actually capture the essence of Shanghai. Shanghai-style plain noodles in broth emphasize the broth. A big bowl features bright green scallions, clear pale broth, and neatly arranged noodles that are as eye-catching and pleasing as a beautiful woman’s hair. Originally, the broth for these noodles really was just water. But over time, it was improved and a clear meat-based broth was used instead, transforming it from plain water to an actual flavorful broth.

　　Nowadays, plain noodles in broth are often served with various toppings, offering endless variety—from low-end pickled vegetables, radishes, and spicy sauces to mid-range grilled meats, smoked fish, and spiced ribs, and even high-end options like yellow croaker, seafood, and crab roe. You can really customize it however you like. Chopped mushrooms, dried shrimp, and nori have also found their way into the dish, adding layers of fragrance that elevate the taste and leave a lingering aftertaste that’s hard to forget. Even though the noodles come with many flavorful toppings, when you eat them, the noodles and the toppings somehow feel completely separate—as if they don’t really belong together.

　　Being a specialty of Shanghai, plain noodles in broth are as deeply intertwined with the lives of Shanghainese people as the “Four Great Staples”: mantou (steamed buns), youtiao (fried dough sticks), soy milk, and zongzi-like rice cakes. Among all noodle dishes, plain noodles in broth are the cheapest, yet they still retain the style of Jiangsu and Shanghai cuisine—striking a balanced, moderate, and unpretentious middle ground.