Boiled Lamb Head in Clear Broth

Boiled Lamb Head

　　Boiled Lamb Head in Clear Broth is a delicacy among Beijing snacks. It involves boiling a lamb head in plain water, slicing it, and sprinkling it with salt and pepper. The dish features a clean white color, large and thin meat slices that are crisp, tender, fresh, and richly aromatic without being greasy—perfect as a meal accompaniment or with drinks. In the past, many vendors in Beijing sold boiled lamb head, but the most famous was Ma Yuku, a sixth-generation family vendor operating from a cart at Lane 2, Langfang, outside Qianmen in Xuanwu District. His boiled lamb head was crisp and refreshing, prepared with the tradition of chilling it with ice in summer and serving it still icy in winter—the colder, the better. The lamb head meat is divided into six parts: lamb cheek, lamb eye, lamb ear, lamb tongue, lamb brain, and “ladder” (the soft palate cartilage), all available upon request and sliced on the spot. The seasoning of salt and pepper is also meticulously prepared.

　　During the socialist transformation after the liberation, Ma Yuku left the trade and became a transporter. When “Nanlaishun” opened at Caishikou, then-manager Chen Liansheng searched extensively and, with the support of local leaders, finally brought Ma back to revive his craft. Ma Yuku became widely known for his boiled lamb head and earned the title “Lamb Head Ma.” He made only twenty lamb heads a day, all from white-haired goats about one and a half years old, sourced from one-year-old castrated Mongolian white goats. These were selected and soaked in cold water for two hours, then the scalp was thoroughly brushed with a hard brush until as white as possible—without breaking the skin. The inside of the mouth was also brushed, including the root of the tongue, and dirt from the mouth, nose, and ears was rinsed out before washing several more times with clean water and draining. A long cut was made from the center of the scalp to the nasal cavity, then the heads were boiled in cold water—enough to cover them by ten centimeters—for over an hour until they were 70% cooked. They were then taken out hot, the meat loosened along the cut, the skull removed, the eyeballs popped out by hand, and the skull split open to extract the brain. The ears and “ladder” were sliced off, along with both pieces of lamb cheek and the tongue, all kept intact. These were then all soaked in cold water for another hour to ensure the meat remained tender, white, and easy to slice. Next, coarse salt was slowly dried in a sandpot over low heat; Sichuan peppercorns were treated the same way and ground into powder, then mixed with clove powder and cardamom powder to make the seasoned salt. This was stored in specially made ox horn containers that retained flavor well, and the salt was sprinkled on freshly sliced meat just before serving to keep it firm and chewy.

　　In Ma Yuku’s time, when he pushed his cart to Lane 2, Langfang, crowds would gather instantly—not only to taste his uniquely flavorful boiled lamb head, but also to watch his masterful skill in slicing the meat paper-thin with a large blade, each slice transparent and still including the skin. The book *Miscellaneous Poems on Beijing Snacks* described the six generations of Ma’s boiled lamb head: “In October’s freezing winds in Yanjing town, / Boiled lamb heads hit the market, rich and renowned. / Saltflakes fly like snow, the slices thin as paper sheer.” The poem captures both the flavor and the artistry—a true marvel. Sadly, Ma Yuku passed away before passing on his skills, and today, authentic boiled lamb head has been lost in Beijing.