Wheat Gluten Skin

Wheat Gluten Skin

　　Wheat gluten skin is a traditional snack with strong local flavors in Qinghai. Vendors selling wheat gluten skin can be found everywhere in Xining and towns in agricultural areas.

　　Wheat gluten skin is made by mixing a certain amount of fenkui (a type of ash) and seasonings into wheat flour, then kneading it into a firm dough with warm water. After repeated kneading until the dough becomes smooth and fine, it is washed continuously in cold water to extract the starch. Once the dough turns into a honeycomb-like texture, it is steamed to become what is called "wheat gluten." The remaining starch paste is then scooped out and steamed in a tray to become what is known as "steamed wheat gluten skin." Once steamed, the gluten skin is removed from the tray, cut into strips, served with the wheat gluten, and topped with seasonings such as vinegar, chili oil, mustard, chopped leeks, and mashed garlic. It has a spicy, cool, and tender texture with a rich and lingering aftertaste.

　　In addition to "steamed wheat gluten skin," there is also "steamed-and-scalded wheat gluten skin." The scalded version is golden, shiny, thin, crispy, and delicate, while the steamed version is dark brown, thick, and hearty. Though they differ in color and shape, their flavors are largely the same. Although wheat gluten skin is a snack, it can also serve as a staple food to satisfy hunger, or as a side dish—perfect as a cold appetizer with drinks. It can be eaten either hot or cold and is enjoyable all year round.

　　When it comes to signature snacks of the northwest, I’d say "wheat gluten skin" is one of the top choices. In my hometown, the character “酿” is pronounced like “让.” However, once you enter the Shaanxi-Gansu region, it’s called "面皮 (miàn pí)," and beyond Jiayuguan, it’s referred to as "凉皮 (liáng pí)." In truth, no matter what it's called, each name only captures one aspect of this delicious dish.

　　The ingredients for wheat gluten skin are quite varied—ranging from mung bean flour and sorghum flour to wheat flour—it seems that anything rich in starch can be used. Hence, the name "面皮" refers to the fact that the primary ingredient is some form of flour.

　　The making of wheat gluten skin is rather elaborate. I remember when my mother made it for us just once during my childhood. Just once—because crafting a batch of perfectly flavored, colored, aromatic, and textured wheat gluten skin is extremely time-consuming and labor-intensive. First, you mix the flour (or mung bean flour, etc.) into a dough. Then, wrap it tightly in an extremely fine and clean white cloth and knead it repeatedly in a basin of clean water. The starch in the dough gradually seeps out through the cloth, accumulating as a thick layer of paste at the bottom of the basin. When no more starch seeps out, you unwrap the cloth to find a small block of gluten that resembles frozen tofu. The steamed gluten is an essential companion to the wheat gluten skin—without it, it’s like drinking coffee without milk; it just doesn’t feel right.

　　Next, the accumulated starch paste is gently rinsed with clean water, then slowly poured in measured portions onto a large, flat tray, spread evenly and smoothly. Several such trays are then steamed. At this point, the starch paste has transformed into a large, shiny "pancake." This "pancake" is carefully lifted off and stacked one on top of the other. A thin layer of cooked vegetable oil is brushed between the layers to prevent sticking. Once cooled, the main ingredient is complete. The character “酿” means “to steam,” which is why “wheat gluten skin” indicates that steaming is a crucial step in its preparation.

　　As for the term "凉皮 (liáng pí)," it goes without saying that it refers to the way the dish is eaten—chilled and mixed with seasonings.