Beef Noodles

Beef Noodles

　　Lanzhou beef noodles are known for their five signature characteristics: clear broth (一清), white radish slices (二白), red chili oil (三红), green coriander (四绿), and yellow noodles (五黄). Each element, especially the broth, noodles, and meat, is meticulously prepared. However, in many places nowadays, unscrupulous vendors cut corners, tarnishing what was once a beloved dish beyond recognition when served elsewhere. The greatest secret of beef noodles lies in the broth. Since Ma Baozi made the first bowl of beef noodles in the early 20th century, the recipe has been passed down through generations, closely guarded as a secret. The so-called "clear soup" isn't just water mixed with salt but is instead made from dozens of seasonings combined with the essence of beef broth. Perhaps you won’t believe it, but no star anise is used in this broth at all. Just like the highest level of martial arts is returning to simplicity, this “clarity” is naturally rich and profound. Lanzhou is situated on a river terrace in the upper reaches of the Yellow River. Thanks to the filtration effect of fine sands from the plateau, it boasts the best underground water quality among provincial-level cities and above. Don’t underestimate this high-quality water—when using the same seasonings but water with a strong chlorine taste from the south, the result can be quite off-putting. Gansu’s climate, with large day-night temperature differences and relative aridity, while not as comfortable for people as the Jiangnan region, is exceptionally suitable for growing high-quality, one-year wheat. Due to its longer growth cycle, the wheat is relatively “hard,” with a much higher protein content. Although the wheat yield is somewhat modest, the quality of the flour is excellent. Only by mixing in a special ingredient (something akin to plant ash) can one pull noodles that are thin, long, smooth, and chewy. The beef used in Lanzhou noodles mainly comes from yaks raised in Gannan and Qinghai. With its lush grass, abundant water, cold climate, and very natural rearing methods, the meat quality is far superior to grain-fed cattle from the plains. Therefore, no matter what, it’s impossible to replicate truly authentic Lanzhou beef noodles elsewhere. As such, if you want to eat real beef noodles, you still have to go to Lanzhou—though perhaps a solution may be found in the future. One unique way of pulling the noodles is called “buckwheat ridge noodles” (荞麦棱棱子), shaped into triangles. It’s quite distinctive, and due to the smoothness of the buckwheat and the unique shape, it actually tastes even better. It’s said that beef noodles offer various medicinal benefits—I can personally attest to this. If you’re feeling stomach discomfort, eating a bowl will bring immediate relief. Aside from the famous Ma Zilu, Lan Qing Ge is also highly reputed. The “Beef Noodle Banquet” was introduced by Lan Qing Ge, elevating this humble street food to a refined dining experience. The chain stores of Jinding are also quite good. But as a former resident of Lanzhou, I’d still recommend finding a small shop where an elderly Hui man with a big beard sells tickets at the door. For just 1.7 yuan, you’ll leave completely satisfied—this is the truly popular version of beef noodles in the eyes of Lanzhou locals. Interestingly, these devout Muslims who sell beef noodles save up enough money to go on a pilgrimage to Mecca. Upon returning, they resume selling noodles and begin the cycle anew. (Lanzhou)