Yongdeng Soft Pear

Yongdeng Soft Pear

　　In the depths of winter, it’s the season for Yongdeng’s “Soft Pears” in Liangzhou. Among the fruit stalls lining the streets, these soft pears appear the least attractive, sitting alongside bright red apples and golden winter pears. They look grayish-brown, wrinkled and shriveled, soft and mushy in the sun as if they’ve gone bad. Who would spend money on such “bad pears”? But the people of Liangzhou are particularly fond of them—especially during the coldest days of winter, when snow is falling thick and breath turns to frost, that’s when they crave soft pears the most.

　　This soft pear is a unique variety among pears. The small, juicy ones are round and called "Shen Bu Zhi" (Unknown to the Gods); those that are green tinged with yellow are called "La Tai" (Wax Moss); and the ones with dark green skin are called "Mo Li Er" (Ink Pear). Before the first frost, they are carefully picked to avoid bruising and stacked in cellars, with layers of straw and fruit. After two or three months of dormancy, the fruits complete their after-ripening process, losing their astringency and emitting a wine-like aroma. At this point, they can be placed in a cool, smoke-free room to freeze. Once frozen, the skin turns blackish-brown and exudes fruit nectar, which the farmers call “sweating.” At this stage, the soft pears are anything but soft—they’re as hard as rocks, making them very convenient for transport and storage, as they’re resistant to pressure and impact. However, there’s one caveat: they don’t like heat.

　　During the coldest days of winter, people have more free time, especially around the New Year. People snack on melon seeds, walnuts, and dried persimmons, leaving both adults and children with sore, parched mouths and heavy, sleepy heads. What better way to relieve boredom and cool down than with a soft pear? The pears are as hard as wood, making a “clack clack” sound when smashed against the edge of a basin—a bite could easily crack a tooth. But there’s a fun way to eat soft pears: scoop out a basin of cold water, drop the pears in with a loud “plop,” and listen to the “crackle” as they freeze. In the local Liangzhou dialect, this is called “pulling.” Soon, all the ice inside the pear is “pulled” out, encasing the pear in a shiny, glass-like layer. Gently crack the ice shell, and the pear has transformed into a bag of sweet juice. Remove the stem to create a small hole, press your mouth to it, pinch gently, and suck—the juice flows in with a “ssss” sound, ice-cold to the bone, refreshing every part of you.

　　During holidays, it’s common to “drink with friends until the cups run dry.” When people drink too much and lose themselves, unable to find their own door, soft pears are the perfect hangover cure. Just a few of these pears can dissolve the stubborn tipsiness in the cool, sweet, and mellow embrace of the fruit.

　　Soft pears also serve as an effective cough remedy. For persistent coughs, excessive phlegm, and chest tightness, simply take a few soft pears, add some high-quality rock sugar, place them in a clay pot, and steam them over boiling water. Once cooled, eat the pears along with the syrup for immediate relief. For more severe coughs, a few grams of ephedra herb can be added to the pears. Though not exactly tasty, this remedy is very “good for the illness.”

　　In the winter of 1941, Yu Youren, accompanied by Zhang Daqian, Gao Yihan, and more than ten others, traveled from Lanzhou to Dunhuang. Passing through Hexi, they noticed the uniquely shaped soft pears and, upon tasting them, found them exceptionally moist and delicious, unlike anything they’d had before. Inspired, Yu composed a poem titled “On the Road Through Hexi”: “The mountains and rivers may never age, but heroes fade away; the Qilian Mountains surround countless battlefields. Don’t say grapes are the sweetest—frozen in snow, the soft pear’s fragrance reigns.” (Wuwei)