Dali "Cake"

Dali "Cake"

　　In Dali, eastern Shaanxi, there is a unique cultural gem known as Dali "Cake." Molding the "cake" serves as a platform to showcase the dexterity and skill of young brides and maidens, highlights the superior artistry of elderly women, and stands as a testament to family prosperity and flourishing.

　　The Dali "Cake" has a long history that can be traced back to the matriarchal society period. Research suggests it evolved from metal and stone offerings and totems, a product of totem worship, as well as a crystallization of the collective wisdom and pursuit of a better life by ancient working women. As a result, this custom has been preserved and passed down to this day.

　　The Dali "Cake" is somewhat well-known across the province and even nationally. Some are made with dozens of pounds of dough, while others are as small as half a liang or just a few qian—tiny as eggs or beans, delicate as vermicelli threads, exquisitely crafted. Works by Wang Yuxia, a dough flower artist from Bayu Township in Dali County, have participated in the first Shaanxi Provincial “Xiheng Cup” Dough Flower Competition and won a collective second prize (according to the *Dali County Annals*). Compared to dough flowers from other regions, the Dali "Cake" has four distinctive features: a long history, rich symbolism, rustic yet ancient shapes, and lifelike imagery. It vividly reflects the lifestyle and cultural aspects of the ancient Yellow River basin. After a daughter’s marriage, her parental home is expected to send her a "cake." The word "cake" is a homophone for "lamb" (羔), hence the phrases "sending the cake" or "bringing the cake."

　　"Sending the cake" refers to the act where, after the wedding and around the Mid-Autumn Festival in the lunar calendar, the bride’s family chooses an auspicious day to solemnly deliver the cake, adorned with large red wedding characters, carried in a food box. The groom’s side then prepares a feast to receive it with great ceremony.

　　"Bringing the cake" is different—it refers to delivering the cake on the wedding day itself, combining two events into one, hence the term "bringing the cake." "Bringing the cake" subtly implies "bringing a lamb," which is associated with premarital pregnancy, the most taboo of situations.

　　The cake is divided into two main parts: the introductory cake and the main cake. There are generally two introductory cakes, or at most four, while the main cake must consist of two.

　　The designs of the cakes are all based on tigers—some adorable, some majestic, and some as gentle and lovable as cats. The introductory cakes are four little tigers, while the main cakes are a pair of male and female tigers. The base of the cake is round or oval, layered with two or three levels of red dates or walnuts in the middle, topped with flowers, insects, and fish skewered on bamboo sticks. The tiger’s mouth holds an egg, creating a richly colored, layered design that is both noble and delicate, rustic yet splendid. This tradition continues year after year. Once the daughter gives birth, another cake is sent for the newborn, wishing the child healthy growth and success. Along with it, four plates (each containing eight pieces) of "rolled steamed buns" are also included. These buns directly mimic the shape of the female reproductive organ. They are served to guests and used to thank relatives, symbolizing the family’s reproductive vitality and the pride of continuing the lineage. Red dates signify "early birth of a noble child," walnuts represent "everlasting union," and eggs express the hope for continuous fertility, like a hen laying eggs that hatch into chicks, which then lay more eggs. The flowers, plants, insects, and fish carry even richer meanings. Peonies suggest that the bride will bring wealth and good fortune to her husband’s family; butterflies symbolize undying love; frogs represent the continuation of offspring; and the small male and female dough figures directly reflect aspirations such as "five sons passing the imperial exams," "a husband’s glory bringing honor to his wife," as well as reverence for life, mutual respect, prayers for fertility. Overall, the three layers of date buns along with the flowers, insects, and fish skewered on top symbolize continuous advancement and thriving prosperity.

　　The selection of those who mold the "cake" is quite strict. Typically, they choose individuals who are not only skillful and of good character but also presentable, neat, and tidy. The group includes both young brides and unmarried maidens, families with flourishing fortunes, and those blessed with both sons and daughters… In short, the "best of the village" are chosen. For larger families making the "cake," the team may consist of around ten people, though generally at least three or five are needed—otherwise, it wouldn’t be enough to "put on a show."

　　Once the host has organized the team, a figure known as “Auntie” or “Sister” (the leader of the cake-molding team, determined by age and seniority) will assign roles according to the process: kneading the dough, making the base, shaping the flowers, coloring, and tending the stove. Everyone works together in division of labor, completing this sacred task amid laughter and playful banter. The experts in cake molding are often respected elders in the village. Thanks to their guidance and teachings, this ancient cultural gem continues uninterrupted to this day, evolving into the simple yet elegant gift it is now.