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Dali Nao Fen (Scratchy Noodles)

Published: 2026-11-13 👁 101 views
Last updated 2026-11-13 — The food court in "Tongzhou Li" had only been open for three days when it attracted my friend to drive all the way from Xi'an. The first thing he said to me was whether the old rural-style cold noodle stalls were still around. Yes, memories of childhood are still vivid—I used to squat at the cold noodle stands, order a bowl of noodles along with a flatbread,…

Dali Nao Fen (Scratchy Noodles)

  The food court in "Tongzhou Li" had only been open for three days when it attracted my friend to drive all the way from Xi'an. The first thing he said to me was whether the old rural-style cold noodle stalls were still around. Yes, memories of childhood are still vivid—I used to squat at the cold noodle stands, order a bowl of noodles along with a flatbread, dip it in the tangy and spicy cold noodles, and with just one bite of the mustard, it would hit me so hard I felt like I’d gone “upstairs”—it was truly the kind of meal that hit the spot.

  As for how good the cold noodles in Tongzhou Li are, I first tasted the ones made by the lovely Wang Ning at the Guanchi Town official Miao Li’s place two months ago when I was there to see the peonies, and I found them truly delicious and full of flavor. Strangely enough, upon entering the food court, I spotted a shop called "Dali Nao Fen." After asking around, I found out it was actually opened by Wang Ning’s family again. Walking up, I saw the owner skillfully pick up the scraping tool, scrape the white cold noodles into a bowl, season them with garlic, vinegar, and mustard, then pour on the fragrant oil with chili flakes, expertly whipping up a bowl of Nao Fen that I hadn’t had in years. Just looking at it made my mouth water. After one bowl, I was instantly transported back to my childhood memories, savoring the unforgettable taste of homesickness and nostalgia.

  Author: Li Shiju

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